Visiting Panama Viejo: Everything you need to know before you go
Panama Viejo was the first European city built along the Pacific Ocean in the Americas and was established in 1519 by Pedro Arias Davila. Its prime location quickly created a trading metropolis, but that led to attacks from pirates that ultimately destroyed the city. Today, Panama Viejo as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here's everything you need to know!
Plan a trip to Panama City, Panama and I’m confident you will quickly discover Casco Viejo, which directly translates as “old town”.
The truth is, although the neighborhood is historical and full of colonial-era architecture, it’s not the original Panama City settlement.
Travel 8km northeast of Casco Viejo and you’ll find Panama Viejo, a sprawling 28 acre space full of crumbling ruins that offers visitors insight into the very first colonial outpost in all of Panama.
Here’s everything you need to know before your visit!
THE HISTORY
The first European city built along the Pacific Ocean in the Americas, Panama Viejo, was established in 1519 by Pedro Arias Davila during the Spanish Colonial era.
Situated along a shallow cove, its prime location quickly created a trading metropolis, most notably of gold and silver. Although the settlement was prospering, the ships that transported treasures back to Spain quickly caught the eye of pirates.
In 1671, the attacks came ashore as the famous pirate, Captain Henry Morgan, went for the jugular, ransacking and pillaging Panama Viejo to the point of destruction.
When it was all said and done, thousands of people had perished and the city was left in ruins.
Rather than re-build, the survivors moved and established a new town in what is presently known as Casco Viejo (completed in 1673).
The peninsula in which the new city was settled upon served as a natural geographic defense system while walls, which are still standing to this day, were built as reinforcements.
Fast forward to 1997, Panama Viejo was established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is now the most well-funded archaeological site in the entire country.
Ruins at the Panama Viejo UNESCO World Heritage Site in Panama City, Panama
GETTING THERE
Panama Viejo is located on the northern end of the city, 8km away from Casco Viejo.
Parking is limited so it’s best to arrive via taxi or Uber, otherwise you can expect to have to park a good distance away and hoof it to the entrance gate.
If arriving by bus, take the following routes:
Panama Viejo-Via Israel-Albrook (departs from Balboa and from Albrook)
Old Panama-Seafood Market (Exits the Seafood Market)
Panama Viejo-Cinta Costera (Departs from Albrook)
Albrook-Via Porras-Cincuentenario (Departs from Albrook and from May 5)
Address: Panama Viejo, Vía Cincuentenario, Panamá, Panama
Phone: +507 226-8915
Hours: 8am - 5pm, closed on Mondays
COST
General entrance to the Panama Viejo complex includes access to the walking path through the archaeological park, museum, and viewing platform from the Cathedral tower.
National adults: $10.00
Foreign adults: $15.00
Children: $2.00
PACK ACCORDINGLY
Water Bottle - There is a cafe near the Cathedral tower, but bring your own bottle and save some money.
Daypack - The best way to explore the ruins is to walk amongst them, so it’s important to have a convenient way to carry your camera, water bottle, sunscreen, etc.
Rain jacket - Rainy season hits Panama between the months of April and December. I was caught huddling under a tree for shelter more than once during my visit. Don’t be like me; go prepared.
Comfortable Shoes - It’s a 15 minute walk from the ticket booth to the heart of the ruins, so make sure to dress accordingly (a free shuttling service is provided for those in need).
WHAT TO EXPECT
First things first: Visit the museum on the grounds to get a better understanding of all that Panama Viejo represents.
The exhibits trace history from pre-colonial times through the era of Spanish conquistadors as well as original maps of the settlement and history of pirate activity in the area.
At the very least, it serves a great and informative shelter from the rain!
Once you feel your knowledge is sufficient, then it’s to time to wander amongst the ruins (Lonely Planet outlines a great self-guided tour).
Ruins of the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco looking towards a modern Panama City, Panama
There are set pathways throughout the grounds, but it’s completely acceptable to get up close and personal as long as a sense of respect is maintained. Remember: You don’t want to be the tourist that’s caught damaging a World Heritage Site!
The archaeological complex was fascinating in its own right, but what struck me the most was that the ruins were situated next to a major highway with downtown Panama City as a backdrop, skyscrapers and all.
The contrast between old and new was stark and certainly thought-provoking. It really gave a whole new perspective as to the growth that the area has seen over the centuries, so don’t forget to look beyond what first meets your eyes. See the whole picture and take a moment to process the spectrum of history that stands before you.
Iglesia y Convento de la Concepción is one of the most well-preserved buildings in the complex while the tower of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción allows visitors the chance climb the stairs to the top and look out over the expansive ruins.
The Iglesia y Convento de la Concepción standing tall at Panama Viejo
Other buildings of note include the Casa Reales (Royal Houses) where the center of the town’s power resided, Cabildo de la Ciudad (City Hall) and Casa Alarcón (Panama Viejo’s largest known private residence).
Although visitors flock to Panama City to learn about the canal and roam the colonial quarters of Casco Viejo, a visit to Panama Viejo is a must-do in order to grasp the deep history of this fascinating place. It’s worth the 15 USD entrance fee!
Have you been to Panama City before? What were your thoughts? Let me know in the comments below and until next time, stay safe & happy travels!
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5 reasons why you should visit Ghana at least once in your lifetime
Although widely considered to be "Africa for beginners," Ghana is often overlooked by travelers. Maybe people don't want to walk with elephants or relax on unspoiled beaches. Whatever your reasons may be, here are 5 as to why everyone should visit Ghana at least once in their lifetime.
Please note: This post was updated as of December 2023
Although widely considered to be "Africa for beginners," Ghana is often overlooked by travelers.
I suppose, in a way, it can be quite overwhelming with too much nature to explore, too many foods to choose from, or a local culture too vibrant to step into.
Sounds terrible, right?
Here are 5 reasons that you should make time to visit Ghana at least once in your lifetime!
1. DIVERSE WILDLIFE
A one hour flight north of Accra to Tamale gives access to Mole National Park, the epicenter of Ghana’s wildlife.
Mole was the first National Park established throughout the country and covers 4,577 square kilometers of burnt orange savannah.
Once inside the park, visitors are transported into a world full of wildlife, including antelopes, bushbucks, monkeys, rare birds (most notably the white-backed vulture), and even leopards, although extremely rare.
It’s not uncommon to be wandering the grounds of the Mole Motel, only to stumble upon a family of warthogs grazing in the grass.
Don’t get distracted for too long though, as the pesky baboons aren’t shy about rummaging through your belongings. During my first visit, I zoned out at breakfast only to realize a baboon had jumped onto the table, stolen the toast and butter, and was cheekily consuming it 10 yards away.
What’s so special about Mole National Park, you ask? The elephants.
Yes, I failed to mention that it’s an elephant hot spot and a prime place for viewing these magnificent mammals between December and April.
Due to the lack of predators within the park’s boundaries, safaris can be done on foot when accompanied by an armed guard. This means that visitors can come within mere feet as elephants graze the savannah.
In total, Mole National Park encompasses 90 different species of mammals, 334 of birds, 33 of reptiles, and approximately 120 of butterflies.
It was a surreal experience, to say the least.
Other places of note include the Boabeng Fiema Monkey Sanctuary in Nkoranza and the remote Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary, tucked away in the Upper West Region along the border with Burkina Faso
Looking for a little more luxury? Check out Mole National Park’s Zaina Lodge. This all-inclusive resort comes complete with an infinity pool, fine dining, and games drives.
Walking with elephants at Mole National Park
2. VIBRANT CULTURE
Thailand might be known as the “land of smiles,” but I’m willing to cast my vote for Ghana to claim the title.
Upon landing in Accra, visitors will notice the positive vibes that are emitted from the locals as they smile and greet everyone that passes by. Don’t be surprised if you make a few friends on the streets and the two of you are suddenly chatting as childhood best friends do. It’s completely normal.
Ghanaians aren’t afraid to express themselves through any means and the perfect place to experience it all at once is Makola Market. Wander through the narrow paths as sellers shout their prices, negotiations become animated, and people move to the beat of the music that fills the air.
It’s no wonder everyone is so happy. In a sea of dust and smog, Ghana’s arts shine bright.
For proof, the stalls full of kente cloth goods at the Center for National Culture.
This vibrant cloth was once sacred amongst the Akan people, reserved for Kings and Queens to wear in times of great importance. Although it’s turned mainstream for the sake of souvenirs in Accra, the royal culture is alive and well in villages throughout the city.
Side note: When visiting a village it’s customary to present the elders with a bottle of schnapps. During one of my visits with Aya, we abided by this custom and he, in turn, presented us with a live goat. I’d like to think that he’s still happily roaming the fields of central Ghana where we set him free.
Whether dancing the night away with locals on the famed Labadi Beach or wandering the halls of the Artists Alliance Gallery in Accra, even the most introverted people can’t resist the vibrant culture in Ghana (I can personally attest).
Traditional drumming & dance performance in Senase, Ghana
3. DELICIOUS FOOD SCENE
Whether in search of traditional fare or cuisine from around the world, Ghana has got you covered.
Dive into a bowl of fufu, a ball of pounded cassava served with stew, or jollof rice, a mixture of tomato paste and rice that packs a punch with a pinch of habanero pepper.
Ghanaians are passionate about their jollof. So much so that a seemingly endless online debate has been taking place for years with Nigerians as to whose jollof rice is the best. For neutrality’s sake, I’m going to keep my mouth shut (but definitely have some while in Ghana, if you catch my drift).
Another personal favorite is the mouth-watering bofrot, the African version of a donut. It’s easy to find a street vendor selling this traditional fried snack on most corners, serving as a quick, easy, and cheap breakfast.
As vast as the traditional foods might be, the global food scene shines bright in the capital city of Accra.
Visit Burger & Relish in the lively neighborhood of Osu for arguably the country’s best burger or enjoy an evening at Santoku for an innovative Japanese experience.
Whatever your food preference may be, you can find it in Ghana.
Traditional Ghanaian fufu
4. DEEP HISTORY
Ghana’s vibrant culture becomes next-level when considering the dark and gut-wrenching past.
Today, 40 castles that formerly housed slaves before loading them onto ships bound for the New World dot the coastline. Of the 11 million to cross the Atlantic, most were taken to South America or the Caribbean but it is thought that around 500,000 Ghanaians disembarked in the United States.
Cape Coast Castle is the most popular of former slave sites to explore and provides visitors the opportunity to experience first-hand the suffocating, dark dungeons that housed 1,000 males and 500 females with minimal food and no sewage available.
The most chilling part of the experience is by far walking through the infamous “Door of No Return,” where slaves once took their final steps in their homeland before a life of labor elsewhere became the reality. That’s if they were fortunate enough to survive the ocean crossing.
It was on March 6th in 1957 when the resiliency of Ghanaian’s paid off and the country became the first sub-Saharan nation to gain independence.
Needless to say, there’s a long and storied history here and it begs to be explored. What better way to do so than to do it first-hand?
Cape Coast Castle looking towards the “Door of No Return”
5. UNSPOILED NATURE
A 4.5-hour drive east of Accra lies Wli Falls, conveniently situated along the border with Togo. Cascading into a pool from 80 meters (262 feet) above, it’s West Africa’s largest waterfall and just a scratch on the surface of all that Ghana has to offer.
Hikers can climb to the top of Mount Afadjato (885 meters/ 2,903 feet) the highest peak in the country, while beachgoers can head south to Ada Foah and stay at the off-the-beaten-path Maranatha Beach Camp for some much-needed relaxation and fun in the sun.
Maranatha Beach Camp in Ada Foah, Ghana
If mountains and beaches don’t do it for you, then how about rainforest hiking?
Kakum National Park is located a short drive north of Cape Coast, Ghana and encompasses 360 square kilometers of the country’s rapidly receding vegetation.
It’s also the home to the famed canopy walk where visitors saunter between the treetops on a precariously placed piece of wood (it’s completely safe, I swear).
Forest elephants and bongo antelopes, both endangered, call this park home while guided hikes from the visitors center help hikers spot birds and butterflies.
Hiking, birdwatching, swimming, sunbathing; Ghana has it all.
Canopy walkway at Kakum National Park
Hopefully, by now you’re a bit better acquainted with all the beauty, both natural and cultural, that this West African nation holds.
If not, here’s the moral of the story: take a trip to Ghana. Explore it, live it, breathe it and enjoy the ride!
Have you ever been to Ghana before? What was your favorite part? Let me know in the comments below!
As always, stay safe & happy travels.
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Staying at the Maranatha Beach Camp: Where the river meets the sea
Traveling through Ghana? Don't miss out on staying at the Marantha Beach Camp. Complete with thatched huts and a surplus of coconuts along a blissful stretch of sand, you'll fall asleep to the sound of the crashing waves after a day full of relaxation or adventure - whatever you choose!
Please note: This post is updated as of December 2023
Have you ever found yourself scrolling through Instagram and stumbling upon someone else’s picture-perfect beach vacation, only to look up from your phone and realize it’s time to get back to work?
Me, too.
Luckily for all of the budget travelers in the world, there’s a magical place just outside of Accra, Ghana where the Volta River flows out to the Gulf of Guinea and palm trees provide shade to the tiny thatched huts that dot the coastline.
Welcome to the Maranatha Beach Camp where, quite literally, the river meets the sea.
THE HISTORY
Maranatha Beach Camp was founded by Winfred Dzinado back in 2005 and started as a one-man operation with only a couple of huts on a strip of sand in Ada-Foah, Ghana. Since that time, it has expanded to 30 available bungalows.
His motivation stemmed from a perceived need for the education of children within his community. Families had been neglecting to send their children to school because of the distance or required financial commitment, both common problems throughout the country.
As Winfred continued his business, he began using the profits to fund affordable and convenient education, starting with the construction of one small classroom and thus establishing the Maranatha Community School.
Today, the school now holds classes for children from 4-15 years old and is partially Government supported while the beach camp’s profits continue to pay for building upkeep and a few teacher salaries.
Needless to say, you can feel good about where your money is going!
Maranatha Beach Camp as seen from the water
BOOKING
The beauty of the Maranatha Beach Camp is that you won’t find it on any booking site. Outside of reviews on TripAdvisor, there’s really not a whole lot of information out there, which only adds to the allure of this isolated oasis.
Don’t worry, I can see your confusion. If there’s no information available, then how does one book accommodation?
Send an e-mail request. Once a response is received, you’re good to go! That’s all it takes.
There is no online payment processing and no deposits necessary. Simply show up and pay on site in cash.
GETTING THERE
The first step in reaching the beach camp is to find your way to the small fishing town of Ada-Foah. This can be accomplished by either private taxi from Accra or using the public transportation system, commonly referred to as Tro-Tros (find the van heading to Ada-Foah from the Tudu Station in Accra).
After the 2 hour drive east from the capital, you can either hire a motorbike to Maranatha and walk the rest of the way through the town (the walk is across the sand, so it’s not ideal if you’re dragging large suitcases) or you can arrange to be picked up by boat (additional charge per person).
If opting for the latter, it’s best to arrange it through the beach camp prior to arrival in order to save money. Other people will offer their boat services once you arrive in Ada-Foah, but these will typically be a bit more expensive.
Arriving via fishing boat
THE ACCOMMODATION
It’s important to keep things in perspective when talking about what’s available. Maranatha Beach Camp is off the beaten track, comprised of thatched huts on the beach, and is relatively isolated meaning that electricity and running water are scarce.
Does that mean you should stay away? Absolutely not. It’s just important that you know what to expect before you show up with a mental image of a pristine beachfront cabana.
With that being said, I was pleasantly surprised with the overall quality and cleanliness. It’s clear that Winfred and his staff care deeply about what has been built and it shows in how they maintain and continuously improve their facilities!
Rooms (prices as of 2023):
It’s almost inconceivable how affordable room rates are, making it a great place to visit for any budget traveler. Here’s the gist:
Sand Floor Rooms: 60-100 GHC per night
Turtle Lodge Rooms (enclosed with solid floor): 100-200 GHC per night
VIP room with washroom: 250 GHC per night
Keep in mind that each hut is mere feet away from the water’s edge. There’s no such thing as a “good or bad location” here.
Facilities:
Communal vault toilets and bucket showers are available and cleaned daily. It’s not luxury by any means, but trust me when I say that guests have everything they need.
A small soccer pitch and volleyball court have been drawn out in the sand and there are plenty of games to play and hammocks to lounge in throughout the day.
Food and drinks are available by cash purchases at the restaurant/bar on site. Everything is sourced locally and is very affordable, so you won’t break the bank by eating 3 meals a day.
Beach huts dot the beach along the soccer pitch
WHAT TO EXPECT
Maranatha Beach Camp isn’t just a hangout for foreigners, but it’s a local hotspot as well! You’re just as likely to meet fellow travelers from around the world as you are to converse with people from the surrounding communities, especially on the weekends.
Upon arrival, you'll be offered the chance to tour the Maranatha Community School. Take it. It’s a great way to learn about the history of the operation and will shed new light on just what the beach camp means to the community.
The daytime atmosphere is laid back and friendly. Lounge in a hammock as local vendors pass through with fresh coconuts, start a game of volleyball, swim in the Volta River (much calmer than the Gulf of Guinea) or, if visiting on the weekend, dance the night away around the infamous beach bonfire.
It’s also possible to organize a boat tour around the Volta Estuary to places like Rum Island, where locally sourced sugar cane is turned into this satisfying spirit. The Volta River is an important part of Eastern Ghana, and spending some time cruising around is a great way to gain insight as to just how vital of a role it plays in sustaining life.
As the day ends, grab a cold beer while sunset illuminates the sky. One of my favorite things to do in the evenings is simply to sit on the beach and watch the twinkling lights of passing ships as they move across the horizon. My body may relax, but my mind never stops wandering!
Sunset over the Gulf of Guinea
IMPORTANT TIPS
Charge electronics ahead of time: With limited electricity, it’s important to make sure larger electronics you plan on using have full juice ahead of time (i.e. a camera). A portable power bank is a great item to pack for smaller gadgets!
Overestimate cash needed: Maranatha Beach Camp is a cash-only establishment. Normally this wouldn’t mean much except there are no ATMs available in the area. It’s important to bring enough money for accommodation, transportation, meal costs, extra boat tours, drinks at the bar, etc.
During one of my visits, I was forced to ask the tro-tro to stop at an ATM on the way back to Accra because I had no more cash in my pockets and wouldn’t have been able to pay for the ride!
Bring supplemental snacks: This is especially important if you are a vegan. Although food is fresh and available at the restaurant, it can be difficult to find something to fit that specific dietary need. Make sure to shop ahead of time as, like ATMs, there are no supermarkets to be found.
Plan on buying goods: Whether a bottle of local sugar cane rum or handmade jewelry from a vendor on the beach, plan on at least having the opportunity to purchase some sort of souvenir and factor that into your cash withdrawal.
WORTH IT?
Absolutely.
The friendly atmosphere is second to none and it’s a great opportunity to engage with the local community.
Most visitors spend 2-3 days here and leave feeling rested and relaxed, but if you’re in search of a longer escape then it may be worthwhile to learn about the community’s organized volunteer programs.
Either way, next time you find yourself in Ghana, make the effort to visit the Maranatha Beach Camp!
It’s certainly not the easiest of places to reach, but the most beautiful ones never are and I won’t soon forget this little slice of paradise.
So, are you ready to claim your very own beach bungalow and unwind for a few nights? I know I am!
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.
Until next time, stay safe & happy travels!
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Top 10 things to see and do in Accra, Ghana
From historical monuments to bustling markets, Ghana's capital city of Accra has plenty of diverse experiences to offer. Here 10 of the top things to see and do... enjoy the adventure!
Please note: This post has been updated as of December 2023
Approximately the size of Texas, Ghana encompasses an arid climate up north, rainforests in the south, sunny beaches, diverse religions, rich culture, and more than 250 dialects.
So, how can one possibly get a beat on all that this West African nation has to offer? Start with Accra; the place where it all melds together in joyful harmony.
Here are 10 of the top things to see and do in Accra, Ghana!
1. LOSE YOURSELF IN ALLEYS OF MAKOLA MARKET
Largely considered as the economic heart of Accra, Makola Market can be overwhelming to first-time visitors, and for good reason.
There is no official welcome sign or arrows that guide visitors to the various subsections, rather the city’s streets quickly transition from flowing traffic to full of pedestrians and goods. Rest assured anything you might need can be found: a toothbrush, sunglasses, veggies, smoked fish, soap, second-hand clothing, and even toys and souvenirs.
Personally, my favorite thing to do here is to track down a bofrot vendor, Ghana’s version of a donut, and munch on the delicious snack as I wander through the streets in search of something new.
It’s important to remember that although Ghana is commonly referred to as “Africa for beginners” crime still exists, especially within such a high density of people. Be sure to keep your belongings close to avoid pickpockets and keep in mind that all legitimate business is done out in the open. There’s no need to wander into back alleys or enclosed spaces.
Finally, enjoy it.
It can certainly be a bit overwhelming to first-time visitors, but don’t let that deter you but don’t let that keep you way. Rather, use Makola Market as a sort of “right of passage” to truly experience the local life in Accra. It’s something that everyone should experience at least once, even if just for a moment.
Don’t forget to negotiate your purchases - that’s half the fun!
A small section of the bustling Makola Market in the heart of Accra, Ghana
2. STROLL THROUGH THE KWAME NKRUMAH MEMORIAL PARK
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park was dedicated to the first Prime Minister of Ghana in 1992 and is located on the site of the former British polo grounds. This is the exact spot where Dr. Nkrumah once stood to declare Ghana’s independence from British rule before uttering his famous line: “Ghana is free forever”.
A mausoleum is located within the park’s walls and holds the remains of Dr. Nkrumah and his wife, Fathia. To the naked eye, the exterior seems an odd architectural design, but to the people of Ghana, it was built to resemble an upside-down sword, the Akan symbol of peace.
In total, the park covers 5.3-acres and also encompasses a museum which houses photographs, letters, and more from Dr. Nkrumah’s storied life.
It’s easy to spend a couple of hours here, soaking up the palpable history of the long and grueling fight for freedom. A powerful experience, to say the least, and one of the most important sites for first-time visitors to Accra!
3. PAY A VISIT TO BLACK STAR SQUARE
Black Star Square is a massive open-air arena of sorts in the heart of Accra that accommodates 30,000 people. It now hosts all of Ghana’s national parades and holiday gatherings, most notably the Independence Day celebrations held on March 6th each year.
This architectural giant was originally commissioned by Ghana’s first Prime Minister and President, Kwame Nkrumah, to honor the visit of Queen Elizabeth II in 1961.
The expansive area includes Independence Arch on the southern end of the square with the Gulf of Guinea as a backdrop while the Memorial of the Unknown Soldier stands opposite to the north, honoring all of the fallen souls during Ghana’s fight for independence.
By day the square is empty, showing off its sheer size to all who visit. There is no entry to fee walk around and photographs are generally permitted, however keep an eye for guards standing around any of the specific monuments, most frequently Independence Arch. At that point it’s best to exercise your travel photography etiquette and ask before taking a close-up photo.
A visit to Black Star Square certainly won’t take long, but it’s a convenient stop that’s located near several other points of interest, including Black Star Gate and Accra Sports Stadium.
An empty Black Star Square looking towards
4. CLIMB TO THE TOP OF BLACK STAR GATE
Technically part of the Black Star Square complex and sometimes referred to as Independence Arch, this stunning gate stands alone in the middle of a roundabout on the 28th of February Rd. (named out of respect for the 1948 riots) and is impossible to miss.
Lined with beautifully planted gardens, the Black Star Gate represents the struggle for Ghana’s independence. The star at the top, not unlike the one that can be found at the center of the country’s flag, dons the top of the structure on all four sides and symbolizes African emancipation.
The other colors of the flag, red, yellow and green, represent the blood of those who died for independence, mineral wealth, and Ghana’s rich forests and natural resources, respectively.
Be sure to climb to the top of the Black Star Gate and take advantage of the spectacular city views across Accra. This is a great photo op for an aerial perspective over the massive Black Star Square, Accra Sports Stadium, and Osu Castle.
Although it’s free to do, I’d recommend tipping the guide that escorts you up.
Black Star Gate in downtown Accra, Ghana
5. GO BACK IN TIME AT OSU CASTLE
Once referred to as Christiansborg, Osu Castle is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and stands on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, serving as a constant reminder to Ghana’s gut-wrenching past.
Over the years, control of the castle changed hands between the Danes, Norwegians, Portuguese, and British and even served as the seat of the Ghanaian government in the post-slavery era up until it was moved to its current location at the Jubilee House in 2013.
Today, the castle offers visitors the chance to wander the halls British officials once walked and explore the harsh conditions of the slave dungeons.
The most meaningful experience, however, is the solemn “Door of No Return,” ominously named to symbolize the final time that those held captive would step foot on their native soil before boarding a ship bound for the New World.
It’s worth a visit, especially if you don’t have the time to travel to Cape Coast’s castles. Keep in mind that Osu Castle remains within a security zone and, as a result, is only open to the public on Fridays between the hours of 9:00 am and 4:00 pm.
6. WATCH A SOCCER MATCH AT ACCRA SPORTS STADIUM
The Accra Sports Stadium is a 39,800 seat facility that’s mostly used as the home venue for the Hearts of Oak and Accra Great Olympics F.C. soccer teams of the Ghana Premier League.
Although an upbeat atmosphere accompanies match day, it doesn’t come without its fair dose of unfortunate history.
In 2001, it was the site of the worst stadium disaster in all of Africa that claimed the lives of 126 fans. On that fateful day, Hearts of Oak was playing in a match against Asante Kotoko and trailed 1-0 until two quick goals changed their fortune.
Disappointed Kotoko fans responded by throwing plastic bottles on the pitch before law enforcement retaliated with tear gas. Due to the stadium’s poor design, fans bottlenecked at the limited exits and 116 supporters died of compressive asphyxia while another 10 passed away from trauma.
Today, a bronze statue of a fan carrying another fan to safety stands proudly outside of Accra Sports Stadium and reads “I am my brother’s keeper.”
Attending a professional match here remains one of my all time favorite experiences in Accra. In all honesty, I don’t remember how the game unfolded. We were too busy singing, dancing, and blowing vuvuzelas in the rain with the diehard supporters.
Accra Sports Stadium and home of Hearts of Oak, the most successful club soccer team in Ghana
7. JAMESTOWN LIGHTHOUSE
The 92 ft tall Jamestown Lighthouse was built in the 1930s and stands as an iconic staple of the Jamestown neighborhood, which was once a major settlement of Europeans during the slave trade.
Although no longer operational, it’s still possible to climb to the top and take in the fresh air the blows in off the Gulf of Guinea while overlooking the fishing village, historic Fort James, and surrounding Accra.
Pay close attention to where slabs of cement jut out into the ocean. That’s where slaves once walked en route to ships bound for the New World.
The lighthouse is kept under lock and key by local volunteers. They represent a non-profit organization that works in the area and although the building is technically free to visit, it is expected that you provide a donation for their willingness to guide a short tour.
They may try to encourage you to visit Fort James and the fishing village as well, but it’s okay to say no. Simply donate a comfortable amount (5 GHC per person usually suffices) and continue on your way!
Jamestown Lighthouse standing tall in Accra, Ghana
8. KICK BACK AND RELAX AT LABADI BEACH
Adored by locals and foreigners alike and commonly referred to as “La Pleasure", Labadi Beach is a scenic stretch of sand in the Labadi neighborhood of Accra.
Visit during the day and enjoy the views as you sip on a local beer while waiting for your fresh fish at one of the various stalls before wading into the waves. Grilled tilapia, spicy kebabs, and jollof rice are just a few of the dishes available.
Once the sun goes down, the music turns up and the party begins! It’s not uncommon to find reggae artists, disco DJs, and other live bands blasting a cacophony of sounds late into the night.
As you might imagine, a large part of Accra turns up on the weekends, so for a more relaxing experience, it’s best to visit during the weekday. Either way, the small entrance fee (around 20 GHC) is worth the price!
9. SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP AT THE CENTER FOR NATIONAL CULTURE
Although the Center for National Culture may sound like a museum of sorts, it’s actually a souvenir mecca. From wood carvings to backpacks made with the traditional kente cloth, jewelry, gorgeous canvas paintings, and even musical instruments, these vendors have it all - and they’re not afraid to tell you about it!
Don’t be surprised to find yourself surrounded by new “friends” the moment you step out of the taxi, eagerly ushering you to their respective shops. Stand your ground, tell them you’ll stop by later, and stick to your plan.
Right away you’ll notice that the market is inundated with lookalike items, which quickly explains everyone’s urgency to sell their version. My best advice is to take a lap: slow enough to get eyes on what’s available, but quick enough to avoid any aggressive selling strategies.
Another useful tactic is to use your instincts and make a friend. Spend some time talking, build trust, and ask for advice as to how much the items around the market that peaked your interest should cost. It makes the ensuing negotiations much easier!
An artisan delicately carves a bowl at the Center for National Culture in Accra, Ghana
10. HEIGHTEN YOUR SENSES AT THE ARTISTS ALLIANCE GALLERY
Three stories of unique artwork and crafts fill the halls of an old tower that overlooks the Gulf of Guinea.
The Artists Alliance Gallery was first established by the famous artist, Ablade Glover, and has since grown to include the work of both well-known but also up and coming artists of Ghana.
From woven kente cloth pieces to vibrant canvas paintings, a wide array of eye-catching visuals are available to peruse as well as purchase.
Pay special attention to the exorbitantly carved coffins in the shape of crabs or a pair of Nike shoes. In Ghana, it’s popular in to bury a loved one in something that represents their being - whether depicting a favorite item or former occupation.
Admission is free and it makes for a great afternoon of embracing the vibrant and artistic culture of Ghana!
So, there you have it. It’s time to get out and explore Accra, Ghana!
What interests you most on this top 10 list? Is there something I’ve missed? Let me know in the comments below!
As always, stay safe & happy travels.
Don’t want to wander? Check out these tour options!
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3 must-do day trips to take from Accra, Ghana
Ghana's capital city certainly has plenty to offer as is, but don't overlook the country's rich culture, natural beauty, and storied past. Here are 3 must-do day trips to take the next time you find yourself in Accra!
Please note: This post has been updated as of December 2023
A city of over 1.5 million people, Ghana’s capital of Accra certainly has plenty to do as is, but don’t let that stop you from seeing more! Step outside of the hustle and bustle to unlock the natural beauty, rich culture, and storied past of this West African nation.
Here are 3 must-do day trips to take the next time you find yourself visiting Accra, Ghana!
KAKUM NATIONAL PARK
Located 170km from Accra along Ghana’s southern coast, Kakum National Park is home to 360 square-kilometers of the country’s rapidly receding rainforest and protects several endangered species such as the forest elephant, bongo antelope and more.
The park itself was established in 1992 and has since seen steady growth. Ghanaians and foreigners alike come from all around to hike through the butterfly-rich forest, birdwatch along the SunBird Trail and, most frequently, experience the famed canopy walkway (one of three on the African continent).
Suspended 30m above the forest floor, the 7 suspended bridges span a length of over 330m, zig-zagging between the trees along the way. It’s certainly not for the faint of heart as the precariously placed single planks of wood that separate you from plummeting to the ground seem suspiciously unstable, but rest assured it’s perfectly safe.
However you decide to experience Kakum National Park, trained guides are available every step of the way to help spot wildlife, discuss the environmental and economic impact of the area, as well as explain local medicinal purposes of the flora and fauna.
Once exhausted from a day of exploration, the visitors area at the main entrance offers a relaxing atmosphere amongst educational exhibits and the Rainforest Cafe, a place to rest your weary legs and enjoy a refreshing beverage. The cafe sources fresh produce and ingredients from the surrounding communities, so a meal here not only supports the national park but local farmers as well.
Not ready to leave? Kakum National Park offers several overnight accommodations from the primitive Afrafranto Campground (equipment not included) to the comfortable onsite Rainforest Lodge, but for a unique experience book a night in the canopy treehouse and fall asleep to the sounds of the surrounding forest.
Walking along the swinging bridges of Kakum National Park in Ghana
Associated Fees
Standard entrance fee: 2 GHC per person
Canopy Walkway: 60 GHC for non-Ghanaian adult (not including tips)
Guided Hike (1 hour): 50 GHC for non-Ghanaian adult (not including tips)
Cost fluctuates based on nationality and age, as well as inflation. For a full breakdown, visit the official website
Hours of Operation
The park gate is open daily from 8 am - 4 pm
If using park accommodation, arrangements can be made to arrive earlier/later as needed
Getting There
Hop on a shared tro-tro from Kaneshie Station in Accra. Once in Cape Coast, hire a taxi the rest of the way
VIP Bus from Accra to Cape Coast before hiring a taxi
Arriving via rental car is possible as the drive is fairly straight-forward. Be cautious and consider hiring a private driver as traffic in Accra can be overwhelming and be prepared for tolls and police stops along the way
Kakum National Park in Ghana
MARANATHA BEACH CAMP
Welcome to Maranatha Beach Camp, where the Volta River meets the Gulf of Guinea.
A short 2.5-hour drive east of Accra will land travelers in the small fishing town of Ada-Foah. Ask around enough and someone will inevitably be able to point you in the direction of the beach camp, located at the edge of town along a picturesque strip of sand that’s dotted with palm trees and thatched huts.
It’s one of the best places to kick back in a hammock and enjoy a cold beer, only breaking the cycle to cool off in the river. By day, time seemingly stands still but at night, the camp transforms into a local hangout with blaring music and a full dance floor.
The Maranatha Beach Camp was first established by a man named Winifred who saw a need for education within his community. By founding the guest house, he began using the profits to establish a nursery school on the beach. What was once an open-air shelter has since blossomed into a Government-supported and fully-enclosed school and to this day, profits from the beach camp continue to directly benefit the community. Upon arrival, you may be offered a tour of the community. Don’t shy away; it’s great to see where the money is going!
Looking to explore more of the area? The staff at Maranatha are well-connected and are more than happy to arrange a local fisherman to get you more acquainted with Volta Estuary. During one of my visits, we stopped at a local crocodile farm — something I never expected to find on an island in the middle of the river!
Maranatha Beach Camp from the water
Getting There:
The first step is to hop in a tro-tro from Accra to Ada-Foah (2.5hrs, but plan for longer), then there are two options:
Option 1: Find a motorbike willing to take you from Ada-Foah to Maranatha (ask around and don’t be afraid to negotiate the price)
Option 2: Give the beach camp a call and they will send a boat to meet you. Price is typically 30GHC per person for a one-way trip
If travel via tro-tro isn’t in your repertoire, then consider hiring a reliable taxi cab for the day to take you to/from Ada-Foah
Tips & Tricks:
The camp is a cash-only establishment and there is no way to get more. It’s important to plan ahead and overestimate what you’ll need. During one of my trips I had to ask the tro-tro to stop at an ATM on the way back to Accra so that I would be able to pay them because I had run out of money
The restaurant serves great food, but it may be difficult to find something that fits within a vegan diet, so come prepared with snacks if you’re staying for the day. Similar to the lack of ATMs, there are also no stores in the area
Contact Info:
Phone: (+233) 243528248
Sunset above the Maranatha Beach Camp
CAPE COAST CASTLE
A visit to Cape Coast Castle certainly isn’t an experience that will leave you feeling happy and fulfilled, but it’s an important place to visit firsthand and will shed a heart-wrenching light on all that the Ghanaian people have been through.
This particular castle is just one of forty slave forts that were built along the Gold Coast of West Africa by European traders and, since being acquired by the Ghana Museums and Monuments Board, is widely touted as one the most restored and best maintained. It’s possible to visit Fort James back in Accra, but the prison is held under lock and key by the locals and is a far less informative experience.
At Cape Coast Castle, there is an eye-opening museum and guests have the chance to take a somber tour around the grounds. Step inside the damp dungeons underground that once housed up to 1,000 males and 500 females in separate rooms and feel a shiver down your spine as the tour guide slowly closes the door and total darkness descends upon the room. It’s an out-of-body-experience I’ll never soon forget.
As if stepping foot inside the dungeons isn’t heavy enough, the tour culminates by leading visitors through the “Door of No Return.” The exact hole in the fort’s exterior in which slaves once marched through before boarding ships bound for the New World. For the estimated 15% of the 12 million slaves thought to have died at sea, this door not only embodies their final steps on their homeland but also on this Earth.
It’s an emotional experience to be a part of, but I promise that you will have a much deeper connection to the people and culture of Ghana. It’s important to confront the terrible past to truly understand how far things have come. Some of the most positive and resilient people I’ve ever met have been during my travels through this beautiful West African nation.
Inside Elmina Castle, looking towards the path that leads to the “Door of No Return”
Associated Fees:
40 GHC for adult foreigners which includes entry into the museum and a guided tour
Hours of Operation:
Open daily from 9 am-5 pm
Getting There:
Take a local tro-tro to Cape Coast before flagging down a taxi to drive the rest of the way. Expect a 3-4 hour trip if using local transportation
Hire a private car or taxi for the day to make the 127km trip from Accra
Relics of the former life of Cape Coast Castle are now on display for visitors
Wherever you go in Ghana and whatever you do, just remember that there is so much more to the country than what Accra has to offer! Travel farther, expand your mind, and experience something new.
Have you been to Ghana before? What were some of your favorite parts? Let me know in the comments below!
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5 common New Year's resolutions and how to accomplish them through travel
Get fit. Learn a new skill. Enjoy life to the fullest. Sound familiar? These are just a few of the many common New Year’s resolutions that come and go on an annual basis. Sometimes they’re accomplished, and sometimes they simply fall to the wayside, but there is one thing that can check them all off of the list: travel. Here’s how…
Don’t blink or you’ll miss it, but the new year is upon us and that means it’s time for everyone to sit down, dig deep, and come up with ways in which we can improve and grow during the year ahead.
I don’t know about you, but it feels good to put these resolutions on paper and then not-so-much to try to live and breathe the “new me” every day from then on. Things fall to the wayside, morning alarms go ignored, and the inevitable rat race of work returns.
My solution? Travel.
No, it’s not for everyone and yes, it can certainly be uncomfortable at times, but I guarantee that you will be able to accomplish a bulk, if not all, of the resolutions you have set for yourself by committing to explore the world in the upcoming year, whether it’s on the other side of the planet or in your backyard.
Here are 5 common New Year’s resolutions and how travel can help you to carry out them all!
1. EXERCISE MORE
Skiing in the Alps, walking along the canals of Venice in Italy, climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro - it all sounds like exercise to me and if I’m being honest, far more exciting than walking on a treadmill.
I get it, those are only for a moment in time and work is calling, but let’s be honest: eventually, our brains will become used to the sunrise alarms that beckon our presence at the gym, sleeping through them without a second thought.
What are we supposed to do then? The answer is to change it up!
I bet waking up for a sunrise stroll up Cerro Ancon to look out across the Panama Canal would get the juices flowing. The best part is that it doesn’t even come close to feeling like exercise because it’s a new experience.
I understand that it’s often not possible to travel for extensive periods of time to truly accomplish a sustained exercise goal, but in the very least being active abroad can mix-up your routine and re-ignite that passion to exercise regularly once returning home.
Even if you’re unable to leave the country, try going for a walk through a part of town you’ve never been and explore something new. There are plenty of ways to accomplish this New Year’s resolution through travel!
View from atop Cerro Ancon in Panama City, Panama
2. LEARN SOMETHING NEW
This resolution is as simple or as complicated as you’d like to make it.
One of the reasons why the travel bug will forever be engrained in my DNA is the sense of challenge and accomplishment that comes with gallivanting around the globe.
Whenever I wake up in a foreign country and become engulfed by the fear of the unknown, there’s only ever one choice: learn something new to make it feel like home. Learn the public transit system. Learn the conversational parts of a local language. Learn how to grocery shop.
No, these aren’t necessarily lifelong skills that I’m going to take back to the comforts of my house, but I think the adaptability, flexibility, and determination needed to overcome these obstacles can only help to create lasting internal growth.
If something tangible is more your scene, don’t run away. There’s still an easy way to learn something new!
Make a concerted effort to enhance your photography skills as you go about your day-to-day life, whip up some homemade pasta under the tutelage of a master chef in Milan, or even kick off your martial arts career by taking a beginner class in Japan.
Quite honestly, this is the easiest New Year’s resolution to accomplish through travel because of the endless possibilities!
A photo of Seattle, Washington during my first trip with the sole purpose of learning about photography
3. SAVE MONEY
This one seems a bit counterintuitive, and I get it. There are all sorts of costs associated with getting out and seeing the world: flights, insurance, and luggage, just to name a few.
Saving money is geared more towards those embarking on a bit of slow travel in the year ahead and if that’s you then congrats — it’s time to pad your wallet… destination dependent, of course!
It’s no secret that the street food in Thailand is dirt cheap or accommodations in Central America are insanely affordable. Once actually on the ground at your destination, you’ll start saving on these basic needs and that leaves more leeway to explore and try something new which, conveniently enough, also checks of the New Year’s resolution we just covered above!
If slow travel isn’t in the cards, that doesn’t necessarily mean you’re out of luck.
Start reflecting on your choices during the weekends or holidays off from work. Exploring the outdoors or even a mini road trip can help to keep costs low while simultaneously taming the nagging travel bug that lives inside all of us, at least for a short while.
Outside of a tank of gas, there’s minimal spending required which will help to keep more coin in the bank and allow you to plan that adventure abroad you’ve been dreaming about.
Sure hiking in your backyard isn’t roaming around New Zealand, but you’ll still get plenty of bang for your buck, not to mention the fresh air!
Hiking in Oregon, USA
4. LIVE LIFE TO THE FULLEST
It’s important to realize that living life to the fullest looks different for everyone.
For me, some of the most memorable experiences I’ve had, such as chasing the Northern Lights in Finland or getting lost during a hike to find the Choclon Waterfall in Panama, are what have filled me up the most.
They have challenged me, opened my eyes, and, as a result, have left me walking away knowing that I’m a better person.
Is that the gold standard for everyone else? Absolutely not, but the thing is, how do you know what’s for you if you don’t try?
Part of living life to the fullest is not only about doing the things we know will fill us, but also putting ourselves in positions to try the things we’re unsure about.
So, here’s my challenge to you: get out and see the world, but force yourself to experience something new while doing it. It's the only way to truly learn what living life to the fullest means to you!
Finding Choclon Waterfall in Panama was our “live life to fullest” moment this year
5. VOLUNTEER MORE
It’s always a struggle to find time to volunteer in everyday life, isn’t it? It’s not that you’re a bad person. It’s just that the one Saturday you have off is for relaxing.
It’s ok! There’s an answer to your problem and it’s a thing called voluntourism.
This new way of traveling has quickly become a booming industry, with thousands of experiences scattered across the globe that include everything from protecting sea turtles in Costa Rica to teaching recreational classes at a local school in Fiji.
You certainly don’t have to volunteer for your entire trip, maybe a day or two here and there, but it’s a great way to connect with the local culture, check this resolution off the list, and feel good about the impact that you’ll be leaving behind!
Although voluntourism is on the rise, it’s still important to do adequate research ahead of time as to the reputation of organizations that you consider working with. It’s sad to think about, but there are people who won’t hesitate to take advantage of not only the kindness of strangers but even the people who these programs are created to help.
That’s not to say don’t do volunteer abroad, just be sure to know who you’re doing it with. There are still plenty of reputable programs that could really use the support!
Heather Elliott volunteering in Ghana with The Senase Project
So, what do you think? Is traveling in your cards for the year ahead? I hope so! Just remember that you don’t have to go far to accomplish these New Year’s resolutions. Simply get out and go explore… whatever that means, wherever it takes you, and however you get there!
Stay safe & happy travels, everyone.
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