The Ultimate 3-day Itinerary in Boquete, Panama: Experience cloud forests, coffee, and more!
From ominous cloud forests and lush jungle vegetation to the world’s best coffee bean, Boquete is a magical place nestled within the Chiriquí Highlands of Panama that an adventurer’s dream. Here’s a 3-day itinerary to help you plan your next trip!
First and foremost, let me take a moment to answer the most important question: is three days enough in Boquete?
No.
There’s such a high volume of places to explore and things to experience that it’d be easy to spend weeks, if not a month here. This guide will at least help you to scratch the surface and be well on your way to creating the perfect Boquete, Panama itinerary that works for you!
BACKGROUND
Boquete is a small town located in western Panama about 40 miles from the border with Costa Rica. It’s a place popular amongst travelers and ex-pats alike for the abundance of wildlife, cloud forests, and globally acclaimed coffee beans.
Situated along the Caldera River and surrounded by the Chiquiri highlands, the area offers incredible hiking and outdoor adventures for any age including prime viewing of the elusive Quetzal, Panama’s most popular bird. Visitors will find a unique concoction of both Panamanian culture and cuisine mixed with the ex-pat influence from around the world.
If hiking isn’t your thing, no problem! Visit a coffee farm to learn how Boquete cultivates the world’s most expensive bean, soak up the cloud forest views by driving the Bajo Mano Loop, and even take a chocolate-making class in town. Either way, a trip to Boquete is well worth it!
GETTING THERE
There are three main ways to get to Boquete: car, bus, and plane. Let’s break it down:
Renting a car and driving from Panama City to Boquete will take around 6.5 hours via Route 1. It’s a scenic drive along the highway and allows travelers to take their time, stopping in towns like Santiago and David as they go.
This was the mode of transportation I opted for and although renting a car in Panama is notoriously confusing, it was liberating to have the freedom on the road. Having a car while in Boquete also made the more remote hiking trails more accessible.
The most cost-effective option is via bus. There are direct routes from Panama City to David, in which you’ll then need to transfer to further reach Boquete. Generally speaking, this is what you can expect:
Panama City to David – around 8 hours and $15.75
David to Boquete – 1 hour and $1.75
The quickest and also the most expensive way is via flight from Panama City to David before renting a car or hopping on the local bus. The flight time is around 40min and can cost between $85-$150.
To read more about renting a car in Panama, check out this post!
WHERE TO STAY
Thanks to the ex-pat community, there is a wide range of accommodation available from hostels to bed and breakfasts or fully furnished Airbnb rentals!
Sub - $50
$50-$100
$100+
Hotel Finca Lerida Coffee Estate
During this three-day trip, I opted for an Airbnb at Villa Cascada Boquete and could not have had a better experience! The living space is detached from the main home for complete privacy, including entry, and comes complete with a secluded and relaxing koi pond off the back patio. The location is an easy walk to downtown Boquete and made for the perfect home base.
3-DAY ITINERARY
There are a few quick notes to make regarding the itinerary below.
To start with, I tend to travel as most cost-effectively as possible. Often I opt to save money on fancy meals and put those funds towards more experiences. Also, anyone will tell you that I plan very little and explore a lot. Sometimes it works out and sometimes it leaves me wanting more, but it's a risk I'm willing to take.
With these points in mind, let’s dive into a basic, three-day itinerary in Boquete, Panama!
DAY 1:
Breakfast: I opted for a quick and easy breakfast at the Airbnb before packing snacks and heading to the cloud forest for a morning hike.
Two of the best grocery stores to stock up on easy meals and snacks are Super Barú Boquete and Romero Boquete.
Pipeline Trail: The Boquete area has such an abundance of trails to explore that it can be quite overwhelming to choose one to do, especially if on a limited time. This was my first experience hiking in the jungle, so I chose the Pipeline Trail as it’s well known, clearly marked, and relatively flat. Due to the popularity, it’s best to wake up early and start the trek first thing in the morning.
This hike takes visitors through the lush jungle along a narrow path and is commonly known as one of the best places in town to view the Quetzal bird. Along the trail lies a massive 1,000-year-old tree, shooting straight up into the jungle canopy.
The gem of this 3.8-mile loop hike is the cascading waterfall that provides the necessary mist to cool off and feel energized for the trek back to the trailhead.
Note: The locals regulate the trail and there is a 5 USD entrance fee per person, as well as a required sign-in/out. As you walk up from the “Welcome” sign at the road, a small hut will be on the left before you enter the jungle.
Lunch: After being energized by the Pipeline Trail, I opted for a quick lunch/rest back at the Airbnb before setting out on another adventure.
Choclón Waterfall: This was an adventure for the ages. As I was researching places to visit in Boquete, I came across a picture of these stunning twin waterfalls and knew I needed to visit. The only problem was there was no location listed.
Armed with loose GPS coordinates and blurry Google Satellite images of the area, I set off to see if I could make it happen.
After hours of trying, re-trying, almost giving up, and then trying yet again (you can read more about the full adventure by clicking here), I finally found the correct path that led to the magical Choclón Waterfall.
The path itself was overgrown, narrow, and isolated, but the short hike down to the riverbed beyond worth the effort!
Dinner: After expending so much energy on the hiking trails throughout the day, it was a stay-in and rest type of night for dinner, only stepping foot outside to reward myself with a delicious dessert from Gelateria La Ghiotta, a frequent stop on my trip.
DAY 2:
Breakfast: Still feeling the effects of a day full of exploring in the sun and humidity, day 2 was more about exploring the downtown Boquete area. After several local recommendations, I settled on a place called Olga’s for breakfast.
Situated in her own home and greeting each customer with a hug and a kiss on the cheek, Olga’s food was by far the best I experienced on my Panamanian adventure!
Daytime Adventures:
La Viuda del Cafe
The Boquete area is well known around the world for cultivating the Geisha coffee bean. With a gentle wildflower aroma, a bag of these can go for $600 and just a cup can cost $64 in Dubai!
Luckily by being at the source it’s much more affordable. La Viuda del Café is a boutique coffee shop that translates literally as “the coffee window.” Here a cup of Geisha coffee costs only $4!
Is the delectable bean that good? Yes, it is, my friends.
Pastelería Alemana
Located south of downtown Boquete and along Route 41 lays Pastelería Alemana.
A small German pastry shop, the outdoor seating area makes for an odd yet perfect experience, eating a scrumptious apple strudel while gazing off at the remote jungle in the distance.
Faro Panama
I had passed this attraction on the drive into town from Panama City and was completely taken aback. How does a giant lighthouse make its way to such a remote part of the country?
Long story short, this family fun center opened just before my arrival in Boquete and I was the only car in the parking lot. It was an ominous feeling to see an empty complex and have the staff so surprised to see a visitor, but the top of the lighthouse provided unparalleled 360-degree views of the area, including Volcan Barú.
The cost was 4.25 USD per person.
Café Ruiz
To fuel up for an evening hike, a quick stop at the Café Ruiz coffee farm was necessary. Nestled out of town and amongst lush flora, the tasting flight of various local coffees was a needed afternoon jolt.
Café Ruiz also offers some of the shorter/cheaper coffee tours in town. I tried to sign up for one but unfortunately, it was full. Lesson learned; book in advance!
Ready to learn more about Panama’s coffee? Check out this tour from Get Your Guide!
La Piedra de Lino
Translated as “the rock of Lino,” this short yet steep hike offers some of the most spectacular views over Boquete and the surrounding cloud forests.
Climbing 1000+ feet in just over 1.5 miles, La Piedra de Lino is a leg burner and not for the faint of heart, but the payout at the top is worth it.
The path can get slippery, especially after a good rainfall. Be sure to wear shoes with good tread and move slowly.
Dinner: Sabrasón
A cafeteria-style buffet full of Panamanian cuisine and incredibly cheap, Sabrasón made for a quick and easy meal after an exhausting and fulfilling hike up La Piedra de Lino.
Dessert: Gelateria La Ghiotta
DAY 3:
Breakfast: Olga’s… again. Enjoying homemade food on the back patio and surrounded by local flora was the perfect way to start the day.
Tuesday Market: If you’re looking to avoid the ex-pat influence, then the Tuesday Market isn’t for you. With that being said, it’s a unique experience in the area as the community congregates to sell local foods and gifts.
Shopping: Finding the right knick-knacks is far cheaper in Boquete than back in Panama City, so before I drove out of town I spent some time wandering up and down the main road while browsing the local selection of blankets, backpacks, and more.
Boquete was a quick stop on a whirlwind trip around Panama and I wish I had been able to spend more time here, but it’s certainly a place that’s high on my list to return to and learn more about.
Questions? Have other ideas for a trip to Boquete? Leave them in the comments below and be sure to check out my other posts about Panama!
Stay safe & happy travels!
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Top 3 hikes in Boquete, Panama
Drive 480km west of Panama City, Panama and the urban metropolis quickly yields way to a seemingly endless supply of rolling mountains and verdant jungle, eventually leading to an oasis named Boquete. Here are the top 3 hikes when visiting Boquete, Panama!
Drive 480km west of Panama City, Panama and the urban metropolis quickly yields way to a seemingly endless supply of rolling mountains and verdant jungle, eventually leading to an oasis named Boquete.
This mountainous town is nestled within a small valley of the Chiriqui Province and is widely known for being the home of the world’s best coffee. Despite this claim to fame, nature lovers from around the world flock here explore the seemingly endless supply of trails and untouched nature.
Although slightly overrun with ex-pats in recent years, Boquete still offers visitors a calming escape, whether sipping a cup of coffee in the foothills or roaming the numerous dirt paths that wind through the jungle.
My time in Boquete was spent hiking by day and enjoying the rolling thunderstorms as the made way for starry skies at night. To be honest, it was my favorite part of my 8-day trip to Panama and I can’t wait to get back!
Here are the top 3 hikes, plus a few others, for your trip to Boquete, Panama!
PIPELINE TRAIL
The Pipeline Trail in Boquete is aptly named because, well, it follows a pipeline along the river before culminating at a cascading waterfall. It’s one of the more popular trails in the area so the earlier you can go, the better.
Pipeline Trail | Boquete, Panama
What to Expect
The hike itself is relatively flat the entire way, making it easy to be on the lookout for wildlife. AllTrails has it listed as moderate, although I’d say it was certainly a family-friendly jaunt through the jungle.
There were a few spots that may be more difficult for those with limited mobility.
Local villagers regulate the Pipeline Trail. Don’t be surprised when someone appears and asks you to sign in and for 5 USD per person. It’s completely legitimate. Just don’t forget to mark yourself as “returned” on your way back to town!
After paying, we followed the trail as it quickly entered the dense Panamanian jungle. We were on high alert for snakes, howler monkeys, and more, although we had no such luck.
The Pipeline Trail is also widely known as a prime viewing spot for the elusive Quetzal, Panama’s most popular bird.
The Pipeline Trail as it enters the dense jungle in Boquete, Panama
Along the trail, we stumbled upon a 1,000-year-old tree. It stood majestically along the left side of the trail, subtly marked and easy to miss if we hadn't been in search of a convenient spot for a water break.
As we continued on and the dense jungle gave way to a towering canyon, the end was near. In the distance, we could begin to see the waterfall as it cascaded down from high above.
The slow-moving water provided a mist and a refreshing hangout spot to cool off from the humidity we had endured throughout the hike.
An hour and several pictures later, it was time to head back the exact same we had arrived, sign-out, and drive back to town.
When I first arrived in Boquete, I was a bit nervous. I have plenty of experience hiking in the desert and mountains, but very little within the jungle. I found the Pipeline Trail to be a great introductory hike to the region and it gave me the spark of confidence I needed to explore elsewhere!
The 1,000+ year old tree located along the Pipeline Trail in Boquete, Panama
The Facts
Elevation Gain: 1,528 feet
Distance: 3.8 miles out and back
Time: Estimated 2-3 hours depending on pace
Cost: 5 USD per person
Wildlife Viewing: Quetzal birds, snakes, howler monkeys
Getting There
From Boquete, head towards Los Naranjos and follow signs to Bajo Mono. Eventually the road will lead to a sign post that says PIPELINE. Park there and walk up the gravel road. You’ll know that you are in the correct place when you spot a hut to the left. That’s where the trail fee will need to be paid.
CHOCLON WATERFALL
Choclon Waterfall is a lesser-known trail located 40 minutes south of Boquete where twin waterfalls fill a secluded swimming hole at the end of a small gorge.
The path through the jungle is not regularly maintained nor is it distinctly marked, but if you know where you’re going it’s a simple hike.
Swimming at Choclon Waterfall in Boquete, Panama
What to Expect
I originally stumbled upon a picture of Choclon Waterfall while planning my trip down to Panama and immediately decided that it should be added to the itinerary. There was only one problem: Nothing I read told me where to find the trailhead.
Long story short, I was eventually able to track down GPS coordinates to the starting point, marked only by a closed gate and a small path through the barbed wire fencing.
We started the hike by sauntering across an open field before quickly descending to the jungle trail that led to a junction. After much deliberation, Heather and I realized that we had to go up and over a small gate rather than continue following the open trail.
View from the start of the hike before descending into the jungle
After the gate, the path is relatively short and easy to navigate. There were a couple of sections that rain had washed out, so be sure to watch your footing as you hug the wall of the gorge and use the ropes for provided support when available. They’re there for a reason!
A short through the overgrown brush and we had reached the river. Although we waded across the water, take a left instead and head upstream.
We were soon greeted by a magical amphitheater of hanging vines, beautiful waterfalls, and our very own private swimming hole.
We shed our clothes and jumped in as the soft sunlight shone through the canopy above and illuminated the refreshing blue water. It was the perfect ending to a full day of adventure!
To read more about the adventure, visit this post: Chasing Choclon Waterfall
Swimming at Choclon Waterfall in Boquete, Panama
The Facts
Due to the lack of information surrounding Choclon Waterfall, here’s what I can offer:
Elevation Gain: Unknown, but remember that it is a gorge trail, so the ascent will occur on the way back to the trailhead
Distance: Unknown
Time: 30min from trailhead
Cost: Free
Wildlife Viewing: Poison dart frogs, various birds and snakes
Getting There
The easiest way to find the trailhead is by tracking mileage.
From Boquete, travel south via Highway 41. As you pass by Faro Panama (the giant lighthouse), start paying attention to the odometer. Approximately 7.2km later, there will be a sharp right turn. If you reach the town of Nuevo Dolega, then you’ve gone too far by 4km.
Follow the road straight. Eventually you’ll reach a junction where the road swings left. On the lefthand side will be a closed gate with a small opening in the barbed wire fencing. This is the trailhead!
LA PEIDEA DE LINO
A short but steep hike, La Piedra de Lino is the equivalent of an endless stair-stepper machine. If you can grin through the pain, the reward at the top is worth it as the trail offers the best views over the Boquete valley below.
Climbing the steep terrain of the La Piedra de Lino hike in Boquete, Panama
What to Expect
La Piedra de Lino directly translates as “the rock of Lino,” a small community 4km from Boquete. The trailhead is clearly marked, making it one of the easier hikes in the area to find.
The steep path started right away as we made our way up the driveways and we were instantly grateful that we had chosen to give ourselves an afternoon full of rest and relaxation around town before tackling this hike.
Once we entered the jungle we passed by an abandoned house before continuing up, regularly turning around to “enjoy the view” because neither of us wanted to admit how out of shape the terrain made us feel.
Our trip to Panama coincided with the start of the rainy season, which meant that the trail was slippery and washed out in some areas. We hiked in running shoes, but in hindsight would have been much better off bringing a shoe with better tread and a pair of walking poles.
The hike continued to be one recurring theme: up, up, up.
Once at the top we traversed the ridge through a small shaded area, stopping only to graciously allow a snake to cross the path in front of us.
Clouds moving through the jungle at sunset as seen from the top of La Peidra de Lino
All of the pain and suffering immediately subsided when at the clearing we were greeted to the most spectacular view I witnessed during my time in Panama. To the right were soft clouds moving quickly through the mountains while to the left was a picture-perfect view of Boquete.
Needless to say, it was worth the effort and timing it with the sunset was a bonus (just remember to pack a headlamp for the way down)!
Looking over Boquete, Panama from the top of the La Piedra de Lino trail
The Facts
Elevation Gain: 322m
Distance: 2.7km
Time: 40min, but varies greatly based upon fitness level
Cost: Free
Wildlife Viewing: Birds and snakes
How to Get There
Have a GPS available? Simply search for Hostal Casa Pedro and this will lead you straight to the trailhead. If you don’t see a sign that reads “Sendero La Piedra de Lino” then you’re in the wrong place!
If this luxury isn’t available to you, simply head north on Via Boquete and turn right at Avenue Buenos Aires. This road takes you straight to the trail and all you’ll need to do is be on the lookout for the white sign.
If you reach IL Pianista, then you’ve gone too far.
BONUS HIKES
El Pianista
A 3-4 hour out and back trail with 2,000 meters of elevation gain, El Pianista leads you through a moody cloud forest that’s dripping with life before arriving that the summit.
The trail made headlines around the world when two dutch girls in their early 20’s went missing back in 2014. Although officially ruled a hiking accident, many locals believe that Lisanne and Kris were met by foul play in the jungle.
The Lost Waterfalls
One of the more popular hikes in Boquete, The Lost Waterfalls trail winds through the dense jungle, over a suspension bridge, and culminates at 3 stunningly beautiful waterfalls.
Sendero Los Quetzales
Sendero Los Quetzales is a 15.6 mile trail that connects Boquete to Cerro Punta through the jungle. It’s common to hike sections of the path in search of the elusive Quetzal bird.
Volcan Baru
It’s often suggested to begin this 15 mile trail at midnight in order to reach the summit of the tallest mountain in Panama by sunrise. On a clear day, it’s possible to see both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean from the top.
Whether you prefer sauntering along in search of diverse wildlife or grinding out elevation gains to the top of a peak, Boquete is truly a mecca for nature lovers and was hands down my favorite stop during our Panamanian adventure. Next time, I plan on spending far longer than 2 days hiking around the town!
Have you ever been to Boquete before? Have a favorite hike abroad? Let me know in the comments below!
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
It’s time for an upgrade! Here’s my favorite hiking gear:
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Visiting Panama Viejo: Everything you need to know before you go
Panama Viejo was the first European city built along the Pacific Ocean in the Americas and was established in 1519 by Pedro Arias Davila. Its prime location quickly created a trading metropolis, but that led to attacks from pirates that ultimately destroyed the city. Today, Panama Viejo as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here's everything you need to know!
Plan a trip to Panama City, Panama and I’m confident you will quickly discover Casco Viejo, which directly translates as “old town”.
The truth is, although the neighborhood is historical and full of colonial-era architecture, it’s not the original Panama City settlement.
Travel 8km northeast of Casco Viejo and you’ll find Panama Viejo, a sprawling 28 acre space full of crumbling ruins that offers visitors insight into the very first colonial outpost in all of Panama.
Here’s everything you need to know before your visit!
THE HISTORY
The first European city built along the Pacific Ocean in the Americas, Panama Viejo, was established in 1519 by Pedro Arias Davila during the Spanish Colonial era.
Situated along a shallow cove, its prime location quickly created a trading metropolis, most notably of gold and silver. Although the settlement was prospering, the ships that transported treasures back to Spain quickly caught the eye of pirates.
In 1671, the attacks came ashore as the famous pirate, Captain Henry Morgan, went for the jugular, ransacking and pillaging Panama Viejo to the point of destruction.
When it was all said and done, thousands of people had perished and the city was left in ruins.
Rather than re-build, the survivors moved and established a new town in what is presently known as Casco Viejo (completed in 1673).
The peninsula in which the new city was settled upon served as a natural geographic defense system while walls, which are still standing to this day, were built as reinforcements.
Fast forward to 1997, Panama Viejo was established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is now the most well-funded archaeological site in the entire country.
Ruins at the Panama Viejo UNESCO World Heritage Site in Panama City, Panama
GETTING THERE
Panama Viejo is located on the northern end of the city, 8km away from Casco Viejo.
Parking is limited so it’s best to arrive via taxi or Uber, otherwise you can expect to have to park a good distance away and hoof it to the entrance gate.
If arriving by bus, take the following routes:
Panama Viejo-Via Israel-Albrook (departs from Balboa and from Albrook)
Old Panama-Seafood Market (Exits the Seafood Market)
Panama Viejo-Cinta Costera (Departs from Albrook)
Albrook-Via Porras-Cincuentenario (Departs from Albrook and from May 5)
Address: Panama Viejo, Vía Cincuentenario, Panamá, Panama
Phone: +507 226-8915
Hours: 8am - 5pm, closed on Mondays
COST
General entrance to the Panama Viejo complex includes access to the walking path through the archaeological park, museum, and viewing platform from the Cathedral tower.
National adults: $10.00
Foreign adults: $15.00
Children: $2.00
PACK ACCORDINGLY
Water Bottle - There is a cafe near the Cathedral tower, but bring your own bottle and save some money.
Daypack - The best way to explore the ruins is to walk amongst them, so it’s important to have a convenient way to carry your camera, water bottle, sunscreen, etc.
Rain jacket - Rainy season hits Panama between the months of April and December. I was caught huddling under a tree for shelter more than once during my visit. Don’t be like me; go prepared.
Comfortable Shoes - It’s a 15 minute walk from the ticket booth to the heart of the ruins, so make sure to dress accordingly (a free shuttling service is provided for those in need).
WHAT TO EXPECT
First things first: Visit the museum on the grounds to get a better understanding of all that Panama Viejo represents.
The exhibits trace history from pre-colonial times through the era of Spanish conquistadors as well as original maps of the settlement and history of pirate activity in the area.
At the very least, it serves a great and informative shelter from the rain!
Once you feel your knowledge is sufficient, then it’s to time to wander amongst the ruins (Lonely Planet outlines a great self-guided tour).
Ruins of the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco looking towards a modern Panama City, Panama
There are set pathways throughout the grounds, but it’s completely acceptable to get up close and personal as long as a sense of respect is maintained. Remember: You don’t want to be the tourist that’s caught damaging a World Heritage Site!
The archaeological complex was fascinating in its own right, but what struck me the most was that the ruins were situated next to a major highway with downtown Panama City as a backdrop, skyscrapers and all.
The contrast between old and new was stark and certainly thought-provoking. It really gave a whole new perspective as to the growth that the area has seen over the centuries, so don’t forget to look beyond what first meets your eyes. See the whole picture and take a moment to process the spectrum of history that stands before you.
Iglesia y Convento de la Concepción is one of the most well-preserved buildings in the complex while the tower of the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción allows visitors the chance climb the stairs to the top and look out over the expansive ruins.
The Iglesia y Convento de la Concepción standing tall at Panama Viejo
Other buildings of note include the Casa Reales (Royal Houses) where the center of the town’s power resided, Cabildo de la Ciudad (City Hall) and Casa Alarcón (Panama Viejo’s largest known private residence).
Although visitors flock to Panama City to learn about the canal and roam the colonial quarters of Casco Viejo, a visit to Panama Viejo is a must-do in order to grasp the deep history of this fascinating place. It’s worth the 15 USD entrance fee!
Have you been to Panama City before? What were your thoughts? Let me know in the comments below and until next time, stay safe & happy travels!
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Chasing Choclon Waterfall: Discovering paradise in the Panamanian jungle
As I combed through the research prior to our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it. There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us where it was located…
Let me clarify one thing right from the beginning: we weren’t actually in the middle of nowhere. That’s simply how it felt, and to be honest, that’s just the way we like it!
As I combed through the research before our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it (click here to see the original post I found).
There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us the location, let alone how to navigate the hike.
I stumbled deep into the black hole of the internet, searching for any clues that might point us in the right direction. The only objective I accomplished that day was leaving a solid imprint of my butt on the couch cushion. Disappointing, to say the least.
That might be enough to call it quits for some, but it only fueled the fire within. The longer I went without finding what I was looking for, the more determined I became. We were going to find a way to Cascada Choclón. There was no doubt in my mind.
All of the sudden a beam of sunlight shot into the living room. No, it wasn’t actually that dramatic, but shortly after opening the window blinds I came across our first solid lead.
It’s possible that “solid” is a gross overstatement. The website merely provided the GPS coordinates for the trailhead. It wasn’t much to go on, but that was enough to get the ball rolling!
I continued scouring every piece of information that I could find. When I took a closer look at satellite imaging, there was a portion where the jungle appeared to part along the river, providing a much-needed hint to where the falls may be.
Now that I had a starting point and a general direction, it seemed like this may pan out. Fast forward to arriving in Panama: it was time for the adventure!
As soon as we turned off the main road in Boquete, we quickly became grateful that we opted for the SUV rental. The pavement disappeared, our cell service wasn’t far behind.
The farther we drove, the slower we went, carefully maneuvering over every bump, boulder, and hole in the road. As the minutes ticked by, so did our confidence even though neither of us would ever vocalize it.
After what felt like hours, we had reached the starting point.
The car came to a halt and a cloud of dust from our tires quickly engulfed our field of vision. Once it cleared, we realized how “off the beaten track” we were. The sounds of the jungle beckoned beyond the open field that lay ahead. One last look at our maps and we were off.
The hike started by traversing through an open meadow as the sun beat down our backs, the humidity making it impossible for any relief. Upon reaching the first junction, we referred to our makeshift maps and descended to the forest floor, following the sounds of the river below.
As we trekked deeper into the brush, the canopy quickly began to rise straight towards the sky, providing a much-needed relief from the heat. Our compass instructed us to go left around a closed gate, but our ears directed us to the right, towards the sound of the rushing water. We stood there confused, unsure of what to do.
At this point the sun forced us to perspire off our umpteen layers of sunscreen and bug spray, leaving us susceptible to the mosquitoes that began swarming around. We were in no position to have a lengthy debate. Lacking confidence in either direction, we climbed back out to the trailhead.
Maybe we had incorrectly interpreted our map. Maybe if we walked another direction we would discover a different, easier way to reach the river.
It seemed like a good idea at the time but, as it turned out, we were wrong. Very wrong.
As we continued down the gravel road the intensity of the sun drained all of our energy. I could feel my body temperature rising, but I was too exhausted to do anything about it. Each step we took was met with an unsuccessful prayer for cloud cover.
Ten minutes and a new sunburn later, we had reached another dead end.
This was the point that every ounce of my being was telling me to pack up and call it a day. Our motivation was waning, the heat was relentless, and we were out of ideas as we slowly retreated back to the car. I remember Heather cracking jokes along the way, trying to make light of the situation and keep my morale in tact.
A second look at the scattered research revealed a small access path farther down the dirt road. Maybe that was what we were looking for, so we decided to keep driving north.
No luck.
I could tell that Heather wasn’t too sure about continuing and, to be honest, even after regrouping in the air-conditioned car, I wasn’t either. As a rainstorm moved through, we took the time to reevaluate what we were doing.
We felt assured and frustrated at the same time. Confident that we were in the general vicinity. Annoyed that no matter how we approached it, we couldn’t find what we were searching for.
The road back to the original trailhead provided some much-needed perspective as we passed run-down homes with missing walls and children playing in the rain. I couldn’t help but think of the number of tourists that travel through Panama each year and yet had no idea that this part of the country existed. Although we concluded that we would give our adventure one more try, I decided that after the experience we had up to that point, I would be content no matter what. After all, it was Dan Eldon that once said, “The journey is the destination.”
Once we descended back into the jungle, reached the gate, and shuffled our way around it, we were back on track and heading in the right direction.
We quickly descended farther into the forest floor, hugging a makeshift PVC pipe railing along a ridge and using the vines as support as we worked our way down into the canyon. The path was completely overgrown with thick brush rising far above our heads. Thrusting the branches aside, we did our best to stick to the trail quickly narrowed with each step.
The ecosystem of any jungle is the most diverse in the world, often-times leading to regular discoveries of new plants and animals. Panama alone is home to over 1,500 kinds of trees and five species of cats, including jaguars, ocelots, and pumas. It feels eerie yet humbling to be amongst it; a place where the silence is deafening and only broken by an occasional howler monkey crying out in the distance or a bird rummaging amongst the fallen leaves for food.
We silently trekked along the forest floor, remaining vigilant of our surroundings.
The moment we began to feel comfortable, a loud crash echoed through the forest and left us frozen in our tracks. We exchanged nervous glances, trying to control our breathing and telepathically communicate what to do next.
Tip-toeing forward as quietly as possible, we did our best to avoid the branches that covered our path. Needless to say it was a humbling reminder that regardless of how isolated we felt, we weren’t alone.
Finally, the thick brush parted and the bank of the river appeared, reinvigorating the idea that we could find these waterfalls.
We searched up and down the river for a way to cross, but it quickly became clear that it wouldn’t be as simple as jumping between rocks. We would have to carefully select the path of least resistance.
Although our faces may have expressed doubt, we were so close that we could feel it. There was no turning back.
The path continued to disappear before our eyes, winding its way through the overgrown brush before depositing us back onto the rocks and leaving us with newly acquired scrapes up and down our legs.
We continued moving northwest, systematically evaluating every step we took as our feet slipped off the rocks. The energy in the forest changed from nervousness to excitement as we inched closer. We were nearly there.
Just beyond the final bend of the river, the waterfalls were waiting to greet us. It was even more majestic than I had seen in the pictures.
We were left speechless as we peered towards an amphitheater of hanging vines and cascading waterfalls.
The beautiful blue waters of the pool were irresistible. We couldn’t help but jump in and soak up the moment. A rush of emotions engulfed us, leaving nothing but a sense of relief, gratefulness, peace. We had uncovered paradise in the Panamanian jungle. More importantly, we never gave up.
The forest floor quickly grew dark as the sun began to drop below the horizon, signaling that it was time to pack up and move out.
Back on the trail we went, accompanied by the beautiful silence, this time with no unexpected noises.
We made it to the car unscathed, feeling sunburnt and dehydrated yet eternally grateful for all that had happened that day. After all, we had found our own slice of Panama that, at that moment, felt truly untouched.
As I reflect on the adventure we had, I can’t help but think of one of my favorite quotes from the late Anthony Bourdain: “The journey is part of the experience - an expression of the seriousness of one’s intent. One doesn’t take the A train to Mecca.”
What have been some of your greatest journeys? Feel free to share in the comments below.
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
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Hiking Cerro Ancon: Chasing views in Panama City, Panama
The very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb this hill. I think there’s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective. It’s like watching a city pump blood through its veins and Cerro Ancon is the best vantage point you’ll find in this sprawling metropolis.
There’s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective, so the very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb to the top of Cerro Ancon.
Standing atop this popular hill was the perfect place to get a better understanding of all that goes into making Panama City what it is today. It felt as though I was watching a city pump blood through its veins. What ran through the streets below is what gives this place life. What defines it. What keeps it functioning at such a high level.
Here’s what you can expect to find as you start the climb.
GETTING THERE
Cerro Ancon is about a 10-minute drive from Casco Viejo. It’s easy to hail a taxi or hop in an Uber ($2.50, depending on the starting point).
Mi Pueblito is a recognizable drop-off point for the trailhead. A small conglomerate of replica buildings from the Colonial era, it offers visitors the chance to explore exhibits throughout Panama’s history.
From there it’s a short walk up the road to the set of stairs on the right that will lead to the starting point.
ABOUT THE HIKE
The hike itself is also known as Ancon Hill and is a 654-foot high climb that overlooks all of Panama City. It was once used as an administration location for the Panama Canal and was even under U.S. control at one point, but was returned to Panamanian authorities in 1977.
Fun fact: Once the land was handed over, one of the first things the Panamanians did was fly the large flag so that it cast its glory over the entire city!
The hike takes around 30 minutes and is free for anyone to enjoy. Although there is a relatively steep incline, it’s gradual which makes this walk suitable for everyone. The hardest part was braving the humidity!
Don't be alarmed if you have to walk around a fence and past a guard hut... that's normal! You don’t need to stop and talk to anyone that may be in the hut, you can simply keep going. The gate was open when I was there, but I’ve read other accounts where it has been closed. It’s legal to walk through it and carry on your way.
Starting point for hiking Cerro Ancon
From there, start the trek into the lush vegetation, a stark difference from the slabs of concrete and high-rise buildings downtown. Cerro Ancon itself is a 106 acre jungle that is surrounded by a city of 1.2 million people. As you continue winding up the paved path, hanging vines cascade down from the trees and with views of the hustle and bustle of the city below every so often.
This goes without saying, but don’t forget to bring water, even if it’s early in the morning. The humidity and incline are no joke!
En route to the top of Cerro Ancon
THE VIEWPOINTS
Upon reaching the the top, visitors will encounter a set of stairs on the left side of the road that leads to the first two view points. There are two viewpoints worth checking out here. The first looks down above Casco Viejo (the path to the left) while the second shares the expanse of the Panama Canal, Miraflores Locks, and the Bridge of the Americas (to the right).
The Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon
Looking out across the Panama Canal and Miraflores Locks from the top of Cerro Ancon
Once finished soaking up the scenery, keep heading towards the large flag of Panama. The hike is complete once you reach the locked gate. Have a seat on the park benches and enjoy the breathtaking views of Panama City and the Pacific Ocean.
In the shopping mood? More times than not there will be someone selling souvenirs. You’ve got to admire their dedication if they’re willing to walk all of their goods up there!
Pro Tip: Bathrooms conveniently located at the first two viewpoints.
Downtown Panama City as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon
Cerro Ancon was the perfect way to start the trip and is fun for all ages! Although visiting the Miraflores Locks was very educational, being able to watch the whole canal’s operation from above was something special. I’d encourage you to check it out for yourself!
Have you hiked Cerro Ancon before? Did I leave something out? Let me know in the comments below!
Stay safe & happy travels!
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Top 5 things to do in Boquete, Panama: A must-do guide to the cloud forest valley!
From ominous cloud forests to the world’s best coffee bean, the Panamanian town of Boquete has something to offer for everyone. Here are 5 of the top things to do in Boquete, Panama!
*Please note: all information below, including prices, is reflective of the time of writing (2019). Feel free to reach out with questions and I’ll happily help however I can.
I won't typically play the favorites game… “What’s your favorite country?” “What was the best food you ate?” “Which part of your trip did you enjoy the most?” Nah, that’s not for me. Each place, each food, each person I talk with has a unique allure that adds to the experience.
With that being said, let me go ahead and step down from my soap box: I loved Boquete, Panama. The valley, the cloud forests, the coffee, the people, the weather… it truly had it all.
It could have been that I was over the humidity in Panama City, or maybe I was grateful to have made it alive after driving through flash thunderstorms on the PanAm Highway. Either way, I loved every second of the 3 days we spent here!
Disclaimer: Boquete is a well known location within the ex-pat community and is considered to be a top place to retire. Although not a problem, Boquete isn’t a place to visit under the notion of being “off the beaten path.”
WHERE TO STAY
From hostel to bed and breakfast or even farm-stays, Boquete offers a wide variety of accommodation options. Personally, I’d recommend the Villa Cascada Boquete. It’s simple, has everything you need, and most importantly is in the perfect location to base out of during your stay. Alyssa was a phenomenal host and we would stay there again in a heartbeat. Our favorite part was feeding the koi fish every morning on the patio!
Villa Cascada Boquete
TOP 5 THINGS TO DO:
1. GO FOR A HIKE
Hiking is a big reason why people visit the Chiriqui Provence in Panama. Although we were limited on time, we still managed to squeeze in three solid trails, each with their own unique experience.
The Pipeline Trail costs $5/pp and signing in and out at the trail head with whom we affectionately call the “keeper of the book” is mandatory. This helps to ensure everyone's safety.
The path cuts straight through the jungle, culminates at a cascading waterfall and is easy to navigate for any age. It’s also a well known trail for spotting Quetzales, the famous elusive bird in Panama.
La Piedra de Lino was a different story. Climbing 434 meters in just under a mile, this is far more strenuous, albeit rewarding, hike that offers expansive views of the valley below. Pro Tip: Go in the evening and enjoy the sunset from the peak.
Our third and final hike was one that we researched ourselves. After we found the GPS coordinates and satellite images, we decided to give it a go and ended up at Cascada Choclon.
Pipeline Trail
2. BECOME A COFFEE CONNOISSEUR
I’ve spent a good amount of time sipping on cappuccinos and downing espressos in Europe, so I felt as though I understood how a “good coffee” should taste. Boy was I wrong.
Boquete is home to Geisha coffee, widely known as the best coffee bean in the world. With a wild-flower aroma, the beans themselves can go for $600/lb. and a just a cup of it in Dubai can cost you a whopping $64! Mind. Blown.
Is it actually that amazing? Head over to La Viuda del Cafe and sip on a cup of this delectable brew for only $4. While there, pick up a jar of their coffee infused chocolate. You won’t be disappointed, I promise.
Take your bean knowledge one step further and sign up for a coffee plantation tour. There are plenty around the area, all varying in length, price, and time of day. If you’re on a time crunch then sign up for Cafe Ruiz’s Espresso Tour which costs $9 per person and runs 45 minutes. It’s the most bang-for-your-buck option we could find.
Geisha Coffee at La Viuda del Cafe
3. EAT AT OLGA’S
Don’t be surprised when you sit down to eat an old women wraps her arms around you and kisses you on the forehead. That’s Olga. She’s the best and you will feel right at home in her café. We actually adjusted our plans so that we could eat here on back-to-back mornings because we enjoyed the ambiance and food so much. I’d highly recommend the huevos rancheros! Pro Tip: The only menu available is hanging outside the entrance, so read carefully and choose wisely before grabbing a table.
If you’re not into Olga’s, Sabrasón is a budget friendly and authentic Panamanian cafeteria-style eatery. Two full plates for dinner cost about $8 and left our stomaches filled to the brim.
La Alemana is farther out of town, but the German-style café is worth the effort. Who wouldn’t want to enjoy a delicious apfelstreudel while gazing off into the distant jungle?
Regardless of your taste-buds or budget, there are plenty of places to chow down in Boquete. But seriously… go to Olga’s.
Huevos Rancheros at Olga’s
4. VISIT THE TUESDAY MARKET
If you’re looking to avoid the ex-pat scene, then this is where you might become a little annoyed. Yes, it’s filled with older American gentlemen selling foreign currency or watercolor paintings and you might hear the occasional “Hey Frank, how are the grandkids?” but it’s still worthwhile.
It’s a classic farmer’s market feel, just relocated to the middle of Panama. With a good selection of items to browse, we ended up doing all of our shopping here and it was much cheaper than back in Panama City. The market is open from 9am - 12pm every Tuesday. Pro Tip: Head to Olga’s for an early breakfast and then meander over to the market! It’s a perfect way to work off the meal.
5. GELATO FROM GELATERIA LA GHIOTTA
Ask around and any local will tell you that Gelateria La Ghiotta is the place in Boquete for gelato. Conveniently located on the main strip, it was too convenient to not stop and try a new flavor each time we passed by. A small cup with two scoops costs $1.50… talk about a steal!
Looking to upgrade your adventure gear? Here’s what came in handy while hiking in Panama!
BONUS: FARO PANAMA
You won’t miss Faro Panama if you’re driving into Boquete from David along Highway 41, mostly because it’s a giant red and white lighthouse situated in the middle of the Panamanian flatlands. Yes, you read that right; a lighthouse.
It’s the equivalent of a family fun center, offering visitors access to restaurants, dessert bars, playgrounds and, most importantly, spectacular 360-degree views of Volcan Baru and the surrounding area.
The facility had been fully operational for only 5 days during our visit, so I’d expect the popularity to continue to grow. It’s a prime spot to capture the perfect panoramic photograph!
Volcan Baru as seen from the top of Faro Panama
Although the drive from Panama City was a long 7 hours, it was a great as we passed through small towns, battled thunderstorms, and found roadside empanadas along the way. However you plan on getting to Boquete, just make sure you go!
As always, it’s my goal to provide you with everything you need to have an adventure of your own. If you’re looking for more information, don’t hesitate to reach out in the comments below!
Stay Safe & Happy Travels.
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