Sleepless in Seattle: How to spend 24 hours in the Emerald City
Weekend getaways are the perfect opportunity to get out of your comfort zone and experience something new, especially if your time is limited. But with so many things to see and do, how do you decide on what to pack into your schedule? Here are 7 “off the beaten path” recommendations for Seattle, Washington!
All info and prices are updated as of February 2023
Weekend getaways are the perfect opportunity to get out of your comfort zone and experience something new, especially if your time is limited. But with so many things to see and do, how do you decide what to pack into such a tight schedule?
Here’s a piece of friendly advice: go for it! Whatever you do and wherever you end up is all part of the journey, right? With that said, here are some recommendations to get you started in Seattle, Washington!
1. SEATTLE JAPANESE GARDENS
Located inside the Washington Arboretum in northeast Seattle, this 3.5-acre Japanese-style park has opened its doors to the public since 1960. Landscaper Juke Iida’s plans for the garden were based around the principle of shinzensa, meaning the essence of nature, combining Japanese plant materials with those native to the Pacific Northwest.
Today, visitors are welcomed inside the gates to slowly wander the stone paths along the koi pond and take a moment to enjoy the sounds and smells. It’s the perfect place to mindfully sit and rest, escaping the hustle and bustle outside of its walls. If looking for more, sign up to participate in a 40-minute tea ceremony for an extra $15 per person. Reservations are required.
Adults between the ages of 18-64 can enter for $10, while senior citizens (65+), students, youths 6-17, and the disabled can enjoy the park for $6. Children under 5 are free (prices are accurate as of February 2023). There is no charge for parking and admission into the garden is waived on the first Thursday of each month. Please note that tripod photography, picnics, and pets are not allowed inside the gates to preserve the sanctity of the garden.
Address: 1075 Lake Washington Blvd.
Getting there: Metro Bus #11 (stop at Madison St.) or light rail to University of Washington (25min walk from there)
2. RIDE THE COMMUTER FERRY
Not wanting to spend the time or money on a boat tour of Seattle’s waterfront? Riding the commuter ferry is a great cost-effective way to see the city from the Puget Sound. At only $9.45 per passenger as of February 2023, you can choose to take a 30min ride to Bainbridge or opt for the lengthier 60min to Bremerton. Ferries are scheduled to depart all ports (Seattle included) every 60-90min, making it easy to grab a return ticket and jump back on board the boat. By the time you dock in Seattle again, you’ll still have plenty of time left in your day!
The vessels themselves are equipped with everything you need to enjoy the ride. Grab a snack from the shop on the passenger level and get your fix of vitamin D on the upper decks as you take in the sweeping views of the city. This was one of my favorite parts of our weekend adventure!
Seattle’s ferry terminal is located at 801 Alaskan Way, south of Pike Place Market and a short walk away from Pioneer Square.
You can purchase tickets ahead of time, however, it’s a simple process to do it in person at the terminal. It is recommended that you arrive 20-30min before the scheduled departure time.
3. CHEER ON THE SOUNDERS WITH 40,000 OF YOUR CLOSEST FRIENDS
There aren’t many cities in the United States that can regularly fill an NFL stadium for Major League Soccer matches, but Seattle is one of them.
These dedicated Sounders fans treat every game as do-or-die, making for an unbeatable atmosphere inside CenturyLink Field. Grab a beer, chow down on a Seattle Dog (complete with cream cheese and onions… oddly delicious), and cheer on the Sounders with 40,000 of your closest friends!
If your schedule permits, make your way to Occidental Park in Pioneer Square about 90 minutes before kick-off to get the full supporters club experience. Here you’ll find a pep rally with performances by Sound Wave, the official band of Seattle Sounders FC, as well as giveaways, games, and more. Be sure to visit The Ninety (located at 406 S Occidental Ave.) and learn about the club’s storied past before marching to the stadium alongside the supporters, chanting and singing as you go. Maybe you’ll get lucky and their sworn enemy, the Portland Timbers, will be in town!
4. PIKE PLACE MARKET… AT 7AM
Yes, I know, this isn’t off the beaten path, but go at the right time of day and you’ll find yourself surrounded by local shoppers instead of selfie-hungry tourists.
The fish market’s operations begin at 6:30am, while most of the other vendors open their doors around 9am. This makes it the perfect time to enjoy zero lines and grab a breakfast-to-go from the well known Mee Sum Pastry or Piroshky Piroshky (try the smoked salmon pate) and wander the halls of this hallowed place.
You’ll be treated to a sense of how large the operations are, with employees unloading trucks of fresh flowers while fishermen chop ice and unveil their catch of the day. It’s a far more authentic feel than what you'll find later in the afternoon.
Take a moment to sit on the deck located on the top floor of the main market building (the one with the clock sign) and enjoy the crisp morning air as you look out over the Puget Sound. It’s a great spot to watch ships coming into port and sip on a cup of coffee!
5. WATCH THE SUNSET ON PIER 66
If you’ve looked into the best sunset views of Seattle, then it’s likely you’ve stumbled upon Kerry Park. Yes, this small overlook offers the picture-perfect postcard scene with the Space Needle front and center, but it comes at a cost of fighting mass quantities of tourists and photographers alike.
Instead, head to the waterfront and enjoy the views from Pier 66, also known as the Bell Street Pier. This public observation deck comes complete with viewing binoculars and provides breathtaking sights over downtown Seattle, Mt. Rainier, and the Olympic Mountains. Face back towards the city and you’ll even catch a glimpse of the Space Needle!
This place remains largely hidden as compared to the rest of the tourist trail in Seattle, so it’s the perfect setting to enjoy an evening gelato (our favorite is Gelatiamo, just a few blocks from Pike’s Place) and snap some pictures without the crowds. You can access this rooftop deck via the Bell Street Pier Pedestrian Bridge from Elliott St., or by climbing the stairs that are located near the entrance of Anthony’s Restaurant along Alaskan Highway.
6. STROLL ALONG LAKE UNION
Are you looking to do as the locals do? Then make your way over to Lake Union. Here you’ll find an abundance of walkers, runners, and cyclists as they make their way along the 8-mile loop that surrounds this freshwater lake.
From here you’ll be able to hop on a cruise, rent kayaks and paddleboards (look for Moss Bay Kayaks), or simply sip on a latte from the Tripod Coffee trolley (located near the Center for Wooden Boats) and enjoy the views as seaplanes take off throughout the day. Lime and Jump ride-share bikes are widely available and a great way to meander around the area.
With plenty of places to eat and shop, exploring South Lake Union is a great way to experience one of Seattle’s most lively neighborhoods!
7. GAIN SOME PERSPECTIVE
As mentioned above, Kerry Park is the most famous overlook in Seattle, however, a favorite of mine is the Jose Rizal bridge located on the western slope of Beacon Hill.
This is the perfect spot for night photography as tail lights from the I-90 below lead straight into the city, while providing views of CenturyLink Field, T-Mobile Park (home of the Mariners), as well as the Olympic Mountains across the sound.
Relatively unknown outside of the photography community, you’re guaranteed an enjoyable experience in the otherwise crowded Seattle area.
Note to photographers: the bridge tends to shake when buses drive across, so make sure to time your shots accordingly.
Address: 1008 12th Ave. S
If you have any questions or suggestions of your own, feel free to leave a comment below! Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoy your time exploring Seattle.
As always, stay safe & happy travels!
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Touring The DMZ in South Korea: What it's like to stand at the most heavily guarded border in the world
A mere thirty miles outside of Seoul sits one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world. Spanning the entire 160-miles across the peninsula, the demilitarized zone creates a 2.5 mile wide proverbial “no-man’s land” that does more than simply divide the two countries…
A mere thirty miles outside of Seoul sits one of the most heavily guarded borders in the world. Spanning the entire 160-miles across the Korean peninsula, the demilitarized zone creates a 2.5-mile wide proverbial no man's land.
The following piece documents what it felt like to stand on the border of North and South Korea, also known as the scariest place on Earth,coined by Bill Clinton after his visit in 1993.
Heather and I would normally never hop on a tour. Sitting on a bus and listening to a voice through a speaker is not in our travel DNA at this point in our lives. We’d much rather wander the streets of a new place, immersing ourselves in its surroundings.
In fact, that’s how most of our memorable adventures have started. It’s a rush of raw emotions when we turn a corner and discover something beautiful when we least expect it.
We had booked flights to South Korea with no set plans, knowing little about the country itself other than it was the cheapest ticket to Asia then.
Amidst the hours of reading, there was one tour that kept surfacing: visiting the border with North Korea. At first it was a joke. Both of us had come across it, brought it up to the other with a hint of a chuckle, and brushed it aside. It was a “hah, can you imagine if we went there?” moment more than anything else, but each successive time we laughed, the more real it became.
By the second day of researching, we had convinced ourselves to visit the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), hoping for an opportunity to step over the line of demarcation and into the territory of their neighbors to the north. We booked the tour, gave each other a “what the hell are we doing” smile, and packed our bags.
Before we knew it, we awoke at dawn in Seoul, anxious to see where the day would take us.
With any new adventure comes adrenaline. There’s excitement for what lies ahead, accompanied by a nagging fear of the unknown. That’s normal. Yet as we stood on the street corner in the crisp morning air, something seemed off. I could feel a slight wrench in my gut, not out of concern but curiosity. We had traveled nearly 6,000 miles around the world and were about to visit an active war zone, one that continues to affect the daily lives of millions of people. It was going to be different than anything I had ever experienced before.
We arrived at the meeting point, handed over our passports for verification, and boarded the bus. The seats were far from full and we quickly realized we were the only Americans present.
After a short wait, a middle-aged South Korean woman climbed the steps and explained that she would be our guide today. It was time to go.
The first stop was the War Memorial of Korea. We didn’t have nearly enough time here to visit every exhibit, so we quickly shuffled our way to the “History of the Korean War” wing. It was here that we relived our days as college students, cramming as much knowledge as possible into our heads. As is the history of the world’s largest conflicts, that of the Korean War is quite complex and convoluted. This isn’t the platform to expand on it, but I would encourage you to look far beyond what the media presents to gain a better understanding.
War Memorial of Korea
Alas, it was time to continue the tour. Our driver turned right out of the parking lot, trading the sanctity of the museum for the chaotic streets of Seoul.
We continued driving along highway 77, flanked by the Han River to our left. I began tracking the bus’s movement on my phone’s GPS. Sure enough, we were heading due north, straight toward North Korea.
As I glanced out the window the skyscrapers of Seoul had been replaced by barbed wire fences. This was the first sign that we had reached the DMZ.
We veered to the right and began heading east, continuing to follow the fence line as we went. Guard towers whizzed by our windows every mile until we reached Imjingak Park.
DMZ border along Han River estuary
Constructed in 1972, this park was built on the southern side of the Bridge of Freedom as a sign of hope for unification. It has since expanded on that role, now serving as a popular tourist destination.
As we left the comforts of the air-conditioned bus and surveyed our new surroundings, we were both immediately taken aback by old photographs of Korean families sitting along the barbed wire fence, hanging messages of hope and peace as they prayed. Messages, to this day, still cover the barrier that separates them from their loved ones in the north.
Flags for peace at Imjingak Park
It all felt delicate. Physically it was there: The reinforced fencing, the beautifully placed banners, and more. It was palpable and sturdy.
The environment, however, was fragile. Yet within it grew a mob of tourists, elbowing and shoving for the perfect selfie of the South Korean flag that, although weathered, hung proudly on the fence and symbolized the strength of the people that placed it there.
Imjingak Park, South Korea
Maybe it was out of respect that we felt we had to quietly shuffle along the walking path, observing and learning as we went. After all, we showed up as tourists to a place that has experienced so much grief and heartbreak. To this day, South Koreans still ride the DMZ train from Seoul to sit in the park, stare north through the fence, and patiently wait for the day it comes crumbling down. They continue to tell themselves that somewhere out there exists an alternate universe, one where they can move freely throughout the peninsula and reunite with their families.
We took a break to eat lunch, trying to process what we had just witnessed. After slurping the final drops of broth we made our way up to the third floor where a viewing platform provided our first look at the expanse of no man’s land.
I’m not sure what I was expecting. War ruins? Abandoned homes? I found none of that. Pure is the only I can describe it.
Looking into “no-man’s land”
It has been reported that around 800,000 landmines are buried throughout this 160-mile long sliver of land. In a way, these weapons serve as protectors, allowing nature to grow without intervention from the human race.
Humbled by our visit, we returned to the bus. It was time to head farther north towards the Joint Security Area.
As we sat back down in our seats, the mood shifted. The chatter in the back of the bus was silenced by our guide explaining that we now must display our “United Nations Command” visitors pass at all times.
From that point on, we would be inside an active war zone. The bus began to slowly swerve as we continued on. Left, right, then back to the left, avoiding barriers as we crossed a bridge that spanned the Imjin River below.
A slight feeling of unease came over me as we passed through the military checkpoint, but it was time to visit the Joint Security Area (JSA), also known as the village of Panmunjom. It was here that we hoped to step foot into North Korea.
Our bus rolled to a stop at the entrance to Camp Bonifas, located just 400m south of the border. A mere quarter of a mile is all that separated us from the border. We filed into an auditorium, joining with other tour groups. As the seats filled, our new guides from the U.S. Army began dispersing visitor declarations. These documents stated that the U.S Army, UN Command, and the Republic of Korea could not guarantee the safety of visitors and may not be held accountable in the event of a “hostile enemy act.” Comforting, to say the least.
We signed on the dotted lines, nervously laughing at one another’s slight hesitation, then climbed the stairs onto a new bus and continued driving north.
Finally, we reached the Freedom House. Located on the South Korean side of the Joint Security Area, the structure was built to house the reunification of Korean families. It has yet to see such a day.
We received final instructions from our leader: At no time should we place our hands in our pockets. If we wish to use our phones for pictures, we must hold them the entire time. No waving, pointing or making any motion towards the North Korean side.
We were to remain in a single file line at all times. The Korean People’s Army would be closely monitoring our movements from their guard towers. Any misstep may be recorded and used as propaganda.
Interested in learning more about South Korea? Check out these posts:
With these warnings in mind, we were led into the foyer, up the stairs, and to the back doors. One by one we silently walked onto the platform outside, getting our first glances at North Korea.
Across from where we stood was the north’s version of the Freedom House, built taller than it’s South Korean counterpart as a sign of strength. Motionless in front of the door was a lone soldier from the Korean People’s Republic Army. To the far right was a guard tower, monitoring our every move. Directly in front of us stood three South Korean soldiers, attentive and facing the border.
Separating the two countries were three long, blue buildings that served as conference rooms. Here is where leaders from both sides come together for negotiations. Horizontally bisecting these buildings was a small block of cement; the official demarcation line between North and South Korea.
Joint Security Area, South Korea
Part of me couldn’t believe what I was looking at. It wasn’t awe-inspiring or beautiful beyond words by any means. Rather, to visualize where we were on a map of the world simply dumbfounded me. I was being watched by actual North Korean soldiers. I could see one for myself, close enough to yell at across the way.
The person next to me began to move, breaking my thought as we were ushered into the center building; an empty conference room awaited.
Three more South Korean soldiers were standing guard inside, one firmly planted in front of the door directly across from where we entered. That door led outside, straight into North Korea.
I took about ten steps forward, flanking the edge of the large conference table in the middle of the room. As I turned to glance out the window, I realized that I was looking back towards the cement demarcation line. Technically speaking, I had just crossed into North Korea.
Demarcation line between North and South Korea
After twenty minutes we were escorted back out of the southern entrance of the building, returning to the steps of the Freedom House for one final glance at North Korea. It was quite possibly the last one I’ll ever have.
What we didn’t know at the time was that those same buildings would be where Oh Chong Song dashed across the border, making his daring escape from North Korea a mere four months later.
To be honest, I’m still unsure what to make of the whole experience. Yes, we had just stepped foot in an active war zone, but the reality is that it’s as safe as possible. Up to 3,000 people tour the area each day.
Is it for everyone? Certainly not.
Was it one of the most humbling experiences of my life? Absolutely.
As we rode the bus back to Seoul that afternoon, I couldn’t help but admire the strength, resiliency, and patience of the South Korean people. Although the struggle for peace continues, many feel that it has never been closer.
I truly hope that’s the case.
Thank you for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
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10 books that will fuel your wandering soul
You can often find me wandering aimlessly through the travel section of a bookstore. It’s actually one of my favorite pastimes, searching for inspiration to plan my next great adventure. I never truly know what I’m looking for. Regardless, it’s not uncommon to find me camped out on the floor of the aisle…
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You can often find me aimlessly wandering through the travel section of a bookstore. It’s one of my favorite pastimes, searching for inspiration to plan my next great adventure.
I’m not talking about guide books, although I enjoy eagerly flipping through those pages in anticipation of an upcoming trip. Rather, I’m referring to the stories that light a fire deep within your soul. Flames that you didn’t know were there. The books that provide the little spark you need to jump off the couch and out of your comfort zone.
Here's a list of my favorite reads that do just that. Get ready: it's adventure time!
The Book of Joy - Douglas Abrams
Douglas Abrams was granted exclusive access to a series of special meetings between His Holiness the Dalai Lama and Archbishop Desmond Tutu, discussing how to create lasting happiness in this often crazy world. Providing some much-needed insight while acknowledging their different cultures and religions, this book will shed renewed light on life as a human being. I’ve read this book three times, and will continue to search its pages for perspective, humility, and comfort whenever my mind craves it. Each time I flip through the pages, I learn something new about myself. For that reason, it remains at the top of my reading list.
Get it here.
Around India in 80 Trains - Monisha Rajesh
Monisha chronicles her adventures of riding the rails of India in this funny and eye-opening novel.
Yearning for something different, she sets out to explore what she remembers fondly as a child: the Indian trains. Working her way around the country, the author documents the 40,000km of railway travel and shares tidbits from her journey, providing the reader with beautiful images and hilarious stories.
If you don’t know much about India, this is the book for you! There’s no better way to discover the real side of this country than by riding the world-famous trains.
Get it here.
Strength in What Remains - Tracy Kidder
Now and then I stumble upon a book that shakes me to my core and makes me think long and hard about what I take for granted in life. This is one of them. In Strength in What Remains, Tracy Kidder documents the tale of Deo, a young man from Burundi that survived the genocide in 1993 and made his way to New York City with little money and no knowledge of the English language. It’s an often overlooked part of the world’s history, yet some reports estimate that upwards of 200,000 lives were lost over just three months during the genocide. The imagery that Tracy uses to depict how Deo was able to hide and eventually flee the fighting in Burundi and Rwanda is heartbreaking, but the underlying story of resilience will inspire you to get out in the world to learn all you can. After all, we must look back on history to create a better future.
Get it here.
Midnight in Siberia - David Greene
David Greene, a former Moscow bureau chief for NPR, takes readers along on his journey across the Trans-Siberian Railway. Going far beyond the typical Russia that we normally see and hear about in the media, David brings life to working-class citizens as he documents his interactions with locals along the 6,000-mile journey.
This book provides a much-needed glimpse into what life is like for Russians outside of the major cities, sharing their hopes and dreams for not only themselves, but Russia as a whole. Don’t be surprised if my next ticket booked is a Trans-Siberian adventure!
Get it here.
Wanderlust - Elisabeth Eaves
Never judge a book by its cover, but this one is precisely as it sounds.
Author Elisabeth Eaves takes readers along on an ever-so-relatable journey as she documents her impulsive travels and insatiable desire to discover the unknown. Through relatable stories, she is able to connect with the wanderer in all of us.
A true tale of self-discovery, this book may be just the thing you’re looking for to inspire your next adventure!
Get it here.
At Home in the World - Tsh Oxenreider
In this story Tsh Oxenreider brings readers along on her family’s leap of faith. She and her husband sell their house, pack their bags, and take their three young children on a trip around the world. Along the way they find themselves craving stability, but learn to find a sense of belonging through a series of human connections in the ever-changing and fast-paced world. If you’ve ever wondered what it might be like to take your kids around the globe with you, look no further than Tsh’s adventures. At Home in the World is one of my go-tos for some feel-good stories!
Crossing the Heart of Africa - Julian Smith
A modern-day explorer, Julian Smith follows in the footsteps of a 1800s love story in which Ewart Grogan sets out to prove his worth to the love of his life by walking the length of Africa, spanning from Cape Town to Cairo.
Running away from his fear of marriage, Julian attempts to follow Grogan’s original route, seamlessly intertwining both tales of adventure throughout the book.
I was completely captivated by every page in this book as the journey was an adventure in the truest sense of the word. For an epic story of 21st-century exploration, be sure to pick up a copy of this book.
Get it here.
Around the World in 50 Years - Albert Podell
Author Albert Podell is a truly extraordinary man because he didn’t just imagine traveling to every country in the world; he achieved it in addition to holding the record for the longest automobile ride around the globe.
Throughout Around the World in 50 Years, he eloquently and hilariously shares his tales of adventure from his years of traveling. From successfully surviving civil wars to eating African field rats, each word will captivate you and help depict parts of the world that we didn’t even know existed.
Albert is living proof that just because someone claims your dreams are impossible doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go out and chase them anyways.
Get it here.
Peaks on the Horizon - Charlie Carroll
In this tale of chance and adventure, Charlie Carroll gives readers a glimpse into the often secret life of those that inhabit the Tibetan plateau. His obsession began after reading Seven Years in Tibet in grade school, leading him to seek first-hand experience later in life.
Navigating the harsh political policies of China towards the Tibetan people, he is determined to enter the region and learn all he can. When he least suspects it, he meets a new friend, Lobsang, along the Chinese/Tibetan border. Lobsang is originally from Tibet but sought refuge in nearby Nepal.
Now he is trying to find his way back to the love of his life. In Peaks on the Horizon, Charlie Carroll not only takes us through his journey, but Lobsang’s as well. I learned so much about the history of the ongoing conflict by reading this book, unveiling a region previously unknown to me.
A must-read for anyone interested in this remote part of the world.
Get it here.
Mountains Beyond Mountains - Tracy Kidder
In another masterpiece authored by Tracy Kidder, Paul Farmer, widely known as the man who will cure the world of tuberculosis, shares his story with readers.
From Paul’s very first trip to Haiti to petitioning world leaders and working in Russian prisons, Tracy takes us along on every step of the journey. The pages of this book are filled with Dr. Farmer’s tenacious and often daring mentality, which ultimately left me with the belief that I can do more to help solve some of the largest problems in society.
This book is proof that one man can change the world.
Get it here.
Thanks for reading! It’s time to grab a drink, kick back and relax, and enjoy the sunshine. Have a recommendation of your own? I’m always looking for new reading material so please leave a comment below!
As always, stay safe & happy travels!
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Chasing Choclon Waterfall: Discovering paradise in the Panamanian jungle
As I combed through the research prior to our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it. There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us where it was located…
Let me clarify one thing right from the beginning: we weren’t actually in the middle of nowhere. That’s simply how it felt, and to be honest, that’s just the way we like it!
As I combed through the research before our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it (click here to see the original post I found).
There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us the location, let alone how to navigate the hike.
I stumbled deep into the black hole of the internet, searching for any clues that might point us in the right direction. The only objective I accomplished that day was leaving a solid imprint of my butt on the couch cushion. Disappointing, to say the least.
That might be enough to call it quits for some, but it only fueled the fire within. The longer I went without finding what I was looking for, the more determined I became. We were going to find a way to Cascada Choclón. There was no doubt in my mind.
All of the sudden a beam of sunlight shot into the living room. No, it wasn’t actually that dramatic, but shortly after opening the window blinds I came across our first solid lead.
It’s possible that “solid” is a gross overstatement. The website merely provided the GPS coordinates for the trailhead. It wasn’t much to go on, but that was enough to get the ball rolling!
I continued scouring every piece of information that I could find. When I took a closer look at satellite imaging, there was a portion where the jungle appeared to part along the river, providing a much-needed hint to where the falls may be.
Now that I had a starting point and a general direction, it seemed like this may pan out. Fast forward to arriving in Panama: it was time for the adventure!
As soon as we turned off the main road in Boquete, we quickly became grateful that we opted for the SUV rental. The pavement disappeared, our cell service wasn’t far behind.
The farther we drove, the slower we went, carefully maneuvering over every bump, boulder, and hole in the road. As the minutes ticked by, so did our confidence even though neither of us would ever vocalize it.
After what felt like hours, we had reached the starting point.
The car came to a halt and a cloud of dust from our tires quickly engulfed our field of vision. Once it cleared, we realized how “off the beaten track” we were. The sounds of the jungle beckoned beyond the open field that lay ahead. One last look at our maps and we were off.
The hike started by traversing through an open meadow as the sun beat down our backs, the humidity making it impossible for any relief. Upon reaching the first junction, we referred to our makeshift maps and descended to the forest floor, following the sounds of the river below.
As we trekked deeper into the brush, the canopy quickly began to rise straight towards the sky, providing a much-needed relief from the heat. Our compass instructed us to go left around a closed gate, but our ears directed us to the right, towards the sound of the rushing water. We stood there confused, unsure of what to do.
At this point the sun forced us to perspire off our umpteen layers of sunscreen and bug spray, leaving us susceptible to the mosquitoes that began swarming around. We were in no position to have a lengthy debate. Lacking confidence in either direction, we climbed back out to the trailhead.
Maybe we had incorrectly interpreted our map. Maybe if we walked another direction we would discover a different, easier way to reach the river.
It seemed like a good idea at the time but, as it turned out, we were wrong. Very wrong.
As we continued down the gravel road the intensity of the sun drained all of our energy. I could feel my body temperature rising, but I was too exhausted to do anything about it. Each step we took was met with an unsuccessful prayer for cloud cover.
Ten minutes and a new sunburn later, we had reached another dead end.
This was the point that every ounce of my being was telling me to pack up and call it a day. Our motivation was waning, the heat was relentless, and we were out of ideas as we slowly retreated back to the car. I remember Heather cracking jokes along the way, trying to make light of the situation and keep my morale in tact.
A second look at the scattered research revealed a small access path farther down the dirt road. Maybe that was what we were looking for, so we decided to keep driving north.
No luck.
I could tell that Heather wasn’t too sure about continuing and, to be honest, even after regrouping in the air-conditioned car, I wasn’t either. As a rainstorm moved through, we took the time to reevaluate what we were doing.
We felt assured and frustrated at the same time. Confident that we were in the general vicinity. Annoyed that no matter how we approached it, we couldn’t find what we were searching for.
The road back to the original trailhead provided some much-needed perspective as we passed run-down homes with missing walls and children playing in the rain. I couldn’t help but think of the number of tourists that travel through Panama each year and yet had no idea that this part of the country existed. Although we concluded that we would give our adventure one more try, I decided that after the experience we had up to that point, I would be content no matter what. After all, it was Dan Eldon that once said, “The journey is the destination.”
Once we descended back into the jungle, reached the gate, and shuffled our way around it, we were back on track and heading in the right direction.
We quickly descended farther into the forest floor, hugging a makeshift PVC pipe railing along a ridge and using the vines as support as we worked our way down into the canyon. The path was completely overgrown with thick brush rising far above our heads. Thrusting the branches aside, we did our best to stick to the trail quickly narrowed with each step.
The ecosystem of any jungle is the most diverse in the world, often-times leading to regular discoveries of new plants and animals. Panama alone is home to over 1,500 kinds of trees and five species of cats, including jaguars, ocelots, and pumas. It feels eerie yet humbling to be amongst it; a place where the silence is deafening and only broken by an occasional howler monkey crying out in the distance or a bird rummaging amongst the fallen leaves for food.
We silently trekked along the forest floor, remaining vigilant of our surroundings.
The moment we began to feel comfortable, a loud crash echoed through the forest and left us frozen in our tracks. We exchanged nervous glances, trying to control our breathing and telepathically communicate what to do next.
Tip-toeing forward as quietly as possible, we did our best to avoid the branches that covered our path. Needless to say it was a humbling reminder that regardless of how isolated we felt, we weren’t alone.
Finally, the thick brush parted and the bank of the river appeared, reinvigorating the idea that we could find these waterfalls.
We searched up and down the river for a way to cross, but it quickly became clear that it wouldn’t be as simple as jumping between rocks. We would have to carefully select the path of least resistance.
Although our faces may have expressed doubt, we were so close that we could feel it. There was no turning back.
The path continued to disappear before our eyes, winding its way through the overgrown brush before depositing us back onto the rocks and leaving us with newly acquired scrapes up and down our legs.
We continued moving northwest, systematically evaluating every step we took as our feet slipped off the rocks. The energy in the forest changed from nervousness to excitement as we inched closer. We were nearly there.
Just beyond the final bend of the river, the waterfalls were waiting to greet us. It was even more majestic than I had seen in the pictures.
We were left speechless as we peered towards an amphitheater of hanging vines and cascading waterfalls.
The beautiful blue waters of the pool were irresistible. We couldn’t help but jump in and soak up the moment. A rush of emotions engulfed us, leaving nothing but a sense of relief, gratefulness, peace. We had uncovered paradise in the Panamanian jungle. More importantly, we never gave up.
The forest floor quickly grew dark as the sun began to drop below the horizon, signaling that it was time to pack up and move out.
Back on the trail we went, accompanied by the beautiful silence, this time with no unexpected noises.
We made it to the car unscathed, feeling sunburnt and dehydrated yet eternally grateful for all that had happened that day. After all, we had found our own slice of Panama that, at that moment, felt truly untouched.
As I reflect on the adventure we had, I can’t help but think of one of my favorite quotes from the late Anthony Bourdain: “The journey is part of the experience - an expression of the seriousness of one’s intent. One doesn’t take the A train to Mecca.”
What have been some of your greatest journeys? Feel free to share in the comments below.
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
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How I Caught The Travel Bug: and 3 reasons why I can't let it go
I vividly remember standing there on the shores of Hopfen, Germany. It was the summer between my junior and senior years of high school and I was captivated by my first taste of international exploration. I didn’t know it at the time - I don’t think I quite knew how to process it all - but that was my first experience with the travel bug…
I vividly remember standing there on the shores of Hopfen, Germany. It was the summer before my senior year of high school and I was captivated by my first taste of international exploration. Although I was there to play soccer, what I remember most are the cows grazing the fields behind our apartments, the majestic Alps rising high above the blue water of the lake, and the quaint town with its endless schnitzel. I didn’t know it at the time - I don’t think I quite knew how to process it all - but that was my first experience with the travel bug.
I should have guessed that something had shifted. Things that were once important to me stopped taking up space in my brain. Whenever my mind would drift, it would take me straight back to that scene, standing there on the shores of the lake. Suddenly the excitement, awe, and desire to see more would keep me at the edge of my seat, working my way through Google Earth, scanning it all to find the next great adventure.
Fast forward to 2009, I was a freshman at Ithaca College. At that point in my life, I had shifted back to a more rigid mindset. Work hard, get good grades, and be successful. I had no intention of studying abroad, but then everything changed.
As I walked down a narrow corridor towards the sub shop on campus, I passed a poster for Semester at Sea. I was 5ft. from where I was going and this small 8x11 piece of paper stopped me in my tracks. I took it off of the bulletin board, sat down on a nearby staircase, and started to read and re-read every single detail. I was completely and utterly entranced as the world passed me by.
The idea of an opportunity like this had utterly captivated me. Once again, everything else I had on my plate was brushed to the side so I could focus on the important thing: doing anything possible to make a semester abroad happen. I spent the entire summer working two jobs, saving as much as possible to go out and see the world.
Have you ever had an experience that's so comfortable that it’s odd? That’s what Semester at Sea was.
I’ve never been good at social situations. It gives me anxiety to even think about it; I overanalyze, overthink, and can never come up with something to contribute unless I’m addressed directly. Even then I fumble over the words.
Why did 19-year old me think it was a good idea to put myself in the middle of the unknown, surrounded by people I’ve never met? Still, to this day, I don’t know have an answer to that question. With that being said, I’m incredibly glad that I forced myself into it.
Suddenly it was the day of embarkation and as we watched Halifax silently disappear on the horizon of the Atlantic Ocean, I still had no idea what I was doing. The next 110 days were a whirlwind, but I walked away with some of the closest friends I’ll ever have, all because one thing brought us together: travel.
That’s a bond of the purest form and one that can never be broken. We’ve all gone our separate ways and haven’t traveled together since, but whenever we catch up we always reminisce about the stories that we created together, all without missing a beat.
After returning to Ithaca for the rest of my sophomore year, I started to understand that the travel bug wasn’t just a phenomenon that people mentioned in passing. It was real. This time it wasn’t going to loosen its grip and to be fair, I didn’t want to let it.
I’m not sure what the tipping point was, exactly. Maybe it was the sleeper bus in China that dropped us on the side of the highway at 2 am, or climbing Lionshead Peak in South Africa as the sun set over the ocean. It could have been the time in Ghana when our van broke down on a dirt road right in front of the only house in sight and we ended up playing with the family for what felt like hours, far longer than was needed to fix our transportation. Whatever it was, I’m grateful that it happened.
From that point on I’ve always known that deep down traveling was more than simply buying a plane ticket and snapping some pictures; I had fallen in love with it. The aerial views from a window seat, the taxi rides in the wrong direction, the regular doses of PeptoBismol; all of it.
Don’t get me wrong, I go through the rollercoaster of thinking along the lines of what some might term logical: Get a job, find a stable career, live comfortably, and be happy.
If you’re reading this and think that I need to control my desire to perpetually wander the world, you wouldn’t be the first person to tell me that and I’d be willing to bet that you won’t be the last.
To my credit, I’ve tried. The last four years have taken me around the globe to some amazing places for work, but what many don’t realize is that traveling for work and truly traveling are two very different things. It was too comfortable. I couldn’t do it anymore.
So here I sit, writing this blog and hoping that it puts me out of my comfort zone all the while maybe, just maybe, inspiring you to do the same. After all, what better way to expand your borders than by living beyond their walls?
At the end of the day, it’s simple: I can’t stop traveling, I won’t stop exploring, and here’s why:
THE CHALLENGE
Dropping myself into a country where I don’t know anyone, a place where I don’t speak a lick of the language or have the slightest idea of how to navigate the city. That’s my greatest joy.
I’m not going to lie to you: it’s difficult. Even scary at times. There are days that I don’t want to leave whatever apartment I’m temporarily calling home, because those 4 walls are the only protection I have from the unknown.
When I overcome the fear, the concept of comfort expands beyond those same walls and suddenly I’ve overcome the challenges I once faced; I’ve learned a different way of life.
THE DRAMA
There’s a reason why so many of us are addicted to reality television: the drama. But what if there was a way to experience it first hand instead of sitting on the couch?
I’m not talking about the “he said – she said” BS.
I’m talking about running through the airport as the gate to your next flight is closing and you hear your name paged throughout the terminal. Your heart starts to beat faster as you feel the endorphins releasing, your forehead starts to perspire and then you realize that it’s out of your hands. What’s the universe going to throw at you next? How are you going to deal with it?
If this sounds stressful to you, that’s because it is! It’s in those situations that you grow. You learn to cope with wherever you are, whoever you are with, and whatever is happening. A valuable skill to have in life, indeed.
When I think about drama, I can’t help but remember the time that I was sitting on a train in Morocco when it suddenly broke down. Not knowing any of the local dialect, my friends and I struggled to communicate with the woman that shared our compartment. As the train delay dragged on, the closer all of us became, eventually laughing the rest of the way to Marrakesh. A dramatic situation successfully turned into a lifelong memory!
THE PURE JOY
Yes, traveling makes you happy. That’s a well-documented fact. I’m not necessarily referring to the personal joy it brings (although it does bring plenty), but rather the joy you get to witness in every place you go.
When someone you’ve only just met on the street invites you into their home, encourages you to sit in their chair while they make themselves comfortable on the ground, and fills your stomach with a seemingly endless supply of food (all the while never asking for as much as a cent in return), it touches you. Witnessing the magnitude of joy and generosity they exude is contagious and you walk away a better person because of it.
So, let me sum it all up for you. My name is Chris and I have the best problem in the world: I love to travel.
What are some of your most memorable travel experiences? Let me know in the comments below and thanks for following along!
As always, stay safe & happy travels.
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Hiking Cerro Ancon: Chasing views in Panama City, Panama
The very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb this hill. I think there’s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective. It’s like watching a city pump blood through its veins and Cerro Ancon is the best vantage point you’ll find in this sprawling metropolis.
There’s a lot of value in learning about a new place by looking at it from a different perspective, so the very first thing I did the morning after arriving in Panama City was catch an Uber and climb to the top of Cerro Ancon.
Standing atop this popular hill was the perfect place to get a better understanding of all that goes into making Panama City what it is today. It felt as though I was watching a city pump blood through its veins. What ran through the streets below is what gives this place life. What defines it. What keeps it functioning at such a high level.
Here’s what you can expect to find as you start the climb.
GETTING THERE
Cerro Ancon is about a 10-minute drive from Casco Viejo. It’s easy to hail a taxi or hop in an Uber ($2.50, depending on the starting point).
Mi Pueblito is a recognizable drop-off point for the trailhead. A small conglomerate of replica buildings from the Colonial era, it offers visitors the chance to explore exhibits throughout Panama’s history.
From there it’s a short walk up the road to the set of stairs on the right that will lead to the starting point.
ABOUT THE HIKE
The hike itself is also known as Ancon Hill and is a 654-foot high climb that overlooks all of Panama City. It was once used as an administration location for the Panama Canal and was even under U.S. control at one point, but was returned to Panamanian authorities in 1977.
Fun fact: Once the land was handed over, one of the first things the Panamanians did was fly the large flag so that it cast its glory over the entire city!
The hike takes around 30 minutes and is free for anyone to enjoy. Although there is a relatively steep incline, it’s gradual which makes this walk suitable for everyone. The hardest part was braving the humidity!
Don't be alarmed if you have to walk around a fence and past a guard hut... that's normal! You don’t need to stop and talk to anyone that may be in the hut, you can simply keep going. The gate was open when I was there, but I’ve read other accounts where it has been closed. It’s legal to walk through it and carry on your way.
Starting point for hiking Cerro Ancon
From there, start the trek into the lush vegetation, a stark difference from the slabs of concrete and high-rise buildings downtown. Cerro Ancon itself is a 106 acre jungle that is surrounded by a city of 1.2 million people. As you continue winding up the paved path, hanging vines cascade down from the trees and with views of the hustle and bustle of the city below every so often.
This goes without saying, but don’t forget to bring water, even if it’s early in the morning. The humidity and incline are no joke!
En route to the top of Cerro Ancon
THE VIEWPOINTS
Upon reaching the the top, visitors will encounter a set of stairs on the left side of the road that leads to the first two view points. There are two viewpoints worth checking out here. The first looks down above Casco Viejo (the path to the left) while the second shares the expanse of the Panama Canal, Miraflores Locks, and the Bridge of the Americas (to the right).
The Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon
Looking out across the Panama Canal and Miraflores Locks from the top of Cerro Ancon
Once finished soaking up the scenery, keep heading towards the large flag of Panama. The hike is complete once you reach the locked gate. Have a seat on the park benches and enjoy the breathtaking views of Panama City and the Pacific Ocean.
In the shopping mood? More times than not there will be someone selling souvenirs. You’ve got to admire their dedication if they’re willing to walk all of their goods up there!
Pro Tip: Bathrooms conveniently located at the first two viewpoints.
Downtown Panama City as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon
Cerro Ancon was the perfect way to start the trip and is fun for all ages! Although visiting the Miraflores Locks was very educational, being able to watch the whole canal’s operation from above was something special. I’d encourage you to check it out for yourself!
Have you hiked Cerro Ancon before? Did I leave something out? Let me know in the comments below!
Stay safe & happy travels!
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