The Ultimate Hiking Guide to Mississippi-Palisades State Park
With local travel the name of the game in 2020, it’s time to explore a little closer to home. With bluffs to climb, fall foliage to soak up, and expansive views of the Mississippi River, there’s every reason to visit Mississippi-Palisades State Park! Here’s everything you need to know…
Local travel is the name of the game in 2020 and with autumn in full bloom, it seemed like the perfect time to migrate away from the bustling streets of Chicago and into the woods to soak up all of the colorful glory.
My alarm rang far too early at 5 am, but it was well worth the sleepless night as I rolled into an empty Mississippi-Palisades State Park at the crack of dawn, nestled along the northern section of the great Mississippi River and complete with sweeping views of Iowa across the way.
Picnic areas, grassy fields, and overlooks are in abundance within the 2,500 acre National Natural Landmark, but the goal of the day was to explore the trails and gain some much-needed elevation (I’m still adjusting to living in the midwest — shout out to the Wasatch Mountains back in Utah).
Here’s everything you need to know about hiking in Mississippi-Palisades State Park:
View of the Mississippi River as seen from the Sunset Trail at Mississippi-Palisades State Park
THE BASICS:
Location: Just north of Savanna, Illinois in Carroll County
Established: The park was founded in 1973
Trails: Hiking in the area is divided into the north and south systems, both containing 5 trails of their own for a cumulative 15-miles worth
Note: this post focuses on the southern trail system
Drive Time: 2 hours and 45 minutes from Chicago, depending on the time of day
Cost: FREE!
Facilities: Grills, gazebos, picnic areas, and restrooms can be found throughout the park
Why Mississippi-Palisades: The drive along the Great Northern Road as it pops in and out of small towns is just as stunning as the park itself, but there’s nothing quite like hiking up the bluffs and seeing the sweeping views above the Mississippi River in the peak of autumn
Difficulty: AllTrails rates this 4.6-mile multi-trail loop as ‘difficult’ due to a few sections of steeper terrain, but it’s a great combination of ascent, descent, and level ground. Plenty of families with young children were out and about
Great! Now that we’ve covered the basics, here’s how I spent my time wandering the southern trail system:
SUNSET TRAIL
I’d recommend starting with this trail as early as possible as the Lookout Point is by far the most popular overlook of the Mississippi River within the state park’s southern trail system. It’s here where you’ll soak up the sweeping views of the river and watch trains roll by below for as long as your heart desires.
The steepest part of the trail is departing from the parking lot as you climb the stairs and gain a quick chunk of elevation. Keep in mind that it’s a narrow, single-track dirt path with steep drop-offs to one side, so be on the lookout for other hikers and proceed with caution.
Once you reach the top of the bluff you’ll encounter a road that leads directly to the overlook. Do not head that way. Instead, cross over and continue on the trail. This winding path will take you down into a ravine thick with vegetation, complete with a wooden foot-bridge that’s set beneath a canopy of changing leaves.
As you make your way up and out of the trail’s low-point, you’ll stumble back onto the road and have the opportunity to scope the overlook. Pro tip: If it’s busy, continue south on the trail and you’ll find a separate, unofficial overlook with views downriver.
Sunset Trail in Mississippi-Palisades State Park
SENTINEL TRAIL
Sentinel Trail is an easy 1.2-mile trail that is located directly across the road from the Sunset Trail, next to the picnic shelter and makes for a convenient second loop on the day.
As you cross the bridge and reach the fork, head left. This will take you up another set of wooden stairs and to a t-junction at which point you’ll choose left again. This will take you to an upper parking lot where you will pick up the less-trafficked Pine Trail.
After completing the short Pine Trail loop (see next section), head back up the Sentinel Trail path that led to the parking lot and continue straight past your previous left turn at the t-junction. This will take you back towards the Mississippi River and over to some last-minute views across the water before heading back down to the parking lot via stairs and narrow paths. Be sure to stop and check out some of the caves that have been carved into the side of the bluffs over the years!
Hiking through the narrow trails of Mississippi-Palisades State Park
PINE TRAIL
Pick up the Pine Trail once you’ve reached the upper parking lot after hiking part of the Sentinel. This was by far the least crowded path within the park, making it easy to avoid other hikers and find some serenity among the fall foliage.
After reaching yet another t-junction, head left. This will lead you out to a road in which you then follow to the right to pick up the trail again at the next parking lot.
As you start the ascent from the road you’ll immediately notice a gray spire affectionately known as The Sentinel. This is a popular rock climbing area so don’t be surprised if you run into some dare-devils as you make your way up to the next overlook before looping back into the woods and up to the Sentinel Trail.
In regards to peacefulness, fall foliage, and a great workout of ascending/descending paths, Pine Trail was the highlight of the day!
Fall foliage in Mississippi-Palisades State Park
There you have it; everything you need to know about hiking through Mississippi-Palisades State Park! The family-friendly area makes for a great day-trip from Chicago and it’s easy to turn it into a weekend getaway by continuing north along Route 84 up to Galena, a quaint town once home to Ulysses S. Grant.
Happy hiking!
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Top 3 hikes in Boquete, Panama
Drive 480km west of Panama City, Panama and the urban metropolis quickly yields way to a seemingly endless supply of rolling mountains and verdant jungle, eventually leading to an oasis named Boquete. Here are the top 3 hikes when visiting Boquete, Panama!
Drive 480km west of Panama City, Panama and the urban metropolis quickly yields way to a seemingly endless supply of rolling mountains and verdant jungle, eventually leading to an oasis named Boquete.
This mountainous town is nestled within a small valley of the Chiriqui Province and is widely known for being the home of the world’s best coffee. Despite this claim to fame, nature lovers from around the world flock here explore the seemingly endless supply of trails and untouched nature.
Although slightly overrun with ex-pats in recent years, Boquete still offers visitors a calming escape, whether sipping a cup of coffee in the foothills or roaming the numerous dirt paths that wind through the jungle.
My time in Boquete was spent hiking by day and enjoying the rolling thunderstorms as the made way for starry skies at night. To be honest, it was my favorite part of my 8-day trip to Panama and I can’t wait to get back!
Here are the top 3 hikes, plus a few others, for your trip to Boquete, Panama!
PIPELINE TRAIL
The Pipeline Trail in Boquete is aptly named because, well, it follows a pipeline along the river before culminating at a cascading waterfall. It’s one of the more popular trails in the area so the earlier you can go, the better.
Pipeline Trail | Boquete, Panama
What to Expect
The hike itself is relatively flat the entire way, making it easy to be on the lookout for wildlife. AllTrails has it listed as moderate, although I’d say it was certainly a family-friendly jaunt through the jungle.
There were a few spots that may be more difficult for those with limited mobility.
Local villagers regulate the Pipeline Trail. Don’t be surprised when someone appears and asks you to sign in and for 5 USD per person. It’s completely legitimate. Just don’t forget to mark yourself as “returned” on your way back to town!
After paying, we followed the trail as it quickly entered the dense Panamanian jungle. We were on high alert for snakes, howler monkeys, and more, although we had no such luck.
The Pipeline Trail is also widely known as a prime viewing spot for the elusive Quetzal, Panama’s most popular bird.
The Pipeline Trail as it enters the dense jungle in Boquete, Panama
Along the trail, we stumbled upon a 1,000-year-old tree. It stood majestically along the left side of the trail, subtly marked and easy to miss if we hadn't been in search of a convenient spot for a water break.
As we continued on and the dense jungle gave way to a towering canyon, the end was near. In the distance, we could begin to see the waterfall as it cascaded down from high above.
The slow-moving water provided a mist and a refreshing hangout spot to cool off from the humidity we had endured throughout the hike.
An hour and several pictures later, it was time to head back the exact same we had arrived, sign-out, and drive back to town.
When I first arrived in Boquete, I was a bit nervous. I have plenty of experience hiking in the desert and mountains, but very little within the jungle. I found the Pipeline Trail to be a great introductory hike to the region and it gave me the spark of confidence I needed to explore elsewhere!
The 1,000+ year old tree located along the Pipeline Trail in Boquete, Panama
The Facts
Elevation Gain: 1,528 feet
Distance: 3.8 miles out and back
Time: Estimated 2-3 hours depending on pace
Cost: 5 USD per person
Wildlife Viewing: Quetzal birds, snakes, howler monkeys
Getting There
From Boquete, head towards Los Naranjos and follow signs to Bajo Mono. Eventually the road will lead to a sign post that says PIPELINE. Park there and walk up the gravel road. You’ll know that you are in the correct place when you spot a hut to the left. That’s where the trail fee will need to be paid.
CHOCLON WATERFALL
Choclon Waterfall is a lesser-known trail located 40 minutes south of Boquete where twin waterfalls fill a secluded swimming hole at the end of a small gorge.
The path through the jungle is not regularly maintained nor is it distinctly marked, but if you know where you’re going it’s a simple hike.
Swimming at Choclon Waterfall in Boquete, Panama
What to Expect
I originally stumbled upon a picture of Choclon Waterfall while planning my trip down to Panama and immediately decided that it should be added to the itinerary. There was only one problem: Nothing I read told me where to find the trailhead.
Long story short, I was eventually able to track down GPS coordinates to the starting point, marked only by a closed gate and a small path through the barbed wire fencing.
We started the hike by sauntering across an open field before quickly descending to the jungle trail that led to a junction. After much deliberation, Heather and I realized that we had to go up and over a small gate rather than continue following the open trail.
View from the start of the hike before descending into the jungle
After the gate, the path is relatively short and easy to navigate. There were a couple of sections that rain had washed out, so be sure to watch your footing as you hug the wall of the gorge and use the ropes for provided support when available. They’re there for a reason!
A short through the overgrown brush and we had reached the river. Although we waded across the water, take a left instead and head upstream.
We were soon greeted by a magical amphitheater of hanging vines, beautiful waterfalls, and our very own private swimming hole.
We shed our clothes and jumped in as the soft sunlight shone through the canopy above and illuminated the refreshing blue water. It was the perfect ending to a full day of adventure!
To read more about the adventure, visit this post: Chasing Choclon Waterfall
Swimming at Choclon Waterfall in Boquete, Panama
The Facts
Due to the lack of information surrounding Choclon Waterfall, here’s what I can offer:
Elevation Gain: Unknown, but remember that it is a gorge trail, so the ascent will occur on the way back to the trailhead
Distance: Unknown
Time: 30min from trailhead
Cost: Free
Wildlife Viewing: Poison dart frogs, various birds and snakes
Getting There
The easiest way to find the trailhead is by tracking mileage.
From Boquete, travel south via Highway 41. As you pass by Faro Panama (the giant lighthouse), start paying attention to the odometer. Approximately 7.2km later, there will be a sharp right turn. If you reach the town of Nuevo Dolega, then you’ve gone too far by 4km.
Follow the road straight. Eventually you’ll reach a junction where the road swings left. On the lefthand side will be a closed gate with a small opening in the barbed wire fencing. This is the trailhead!
LA PEIDEA DE LINO
A short but steep hike, La Piedra de Lino is the equivalent of an endless stair-stepper machine. If you can grin through the pain, the reward at the top is worth it as the trail offers the best views over the Boquete valley below.
Climbing the steep terrain of the La Piedra de Lino hike in Boquete, Panama
What to Expect
La Piedra de Lino directly translates as “the rock of Lino,” a small community 4km from Boquete. The trailhead is clearly marked, making it one of the easier hikes in the area to find.
The steep path started right away as we made our way up the driveways and we were instantly grateful that we had chosen to give ourselves an afternoon full of rest and relaxation around town before tackling this hike.
Once we entered the jungle we passed by an abandoned house before continuing up, regularly turning around to “enjoy the view” because neither of us wanted to admit how out of shape the terrain made us feel.
Our trip to Panama coincided with the start of the rainy season, which meant that the trail was slippery and washed out in some areas. We hiked in running shoes, but in hindsight would have been much better off bringing a shoe with better tread and a pair of walking poles.
The hike continued to be one recurring theme: up, up, up.
Once at the top we traversed the ridge through a small shaded area, stopping only to graciously allow a snake to cross the path in front of us.
Clouds moving through the jungle at sunset as seen from the top of La Peidra de Lino
All of the pain and suffering immediately subsided when at the clearing we were greeted to the most spectacular view I witnessed during my time in Panama. To the right were soft clouds moving quickly through the mountains while to the left was a picture-perfect view of Boquete.
Needless to say, it was worth the effort and timing it with the sunset was a bonus (just remember to pack a headlamp for the way down)!
Looking over Boquete, Panama from the top of the La Piedra de Lino trail
The Facts
Elevation Gain: 322m
Distance: 2.7km
Time: 40min, but varies greatly based upon fitness level
Cost: Free
Wildlife Viewing: Birds and snakes
How to Get There
Have a GPS available? Simply search for Hostal Casa Pedro and this will lead you straight to the trailhead. If you don’t see a sign that reads “Sendero La Piedra de Lino” then you’re in the wrong place!
If this luxury isn’t available to you, simply head north on Via Boquete and turn right at Avenue Buenos Aires. This road takes you straight to the trail and all you’ll need to do is be on the lookout for the white sign.
If you reach IL Pianista, then you’ve gone too far.
BONUS HIKES
El Pianista
A 3-4 hour out and back trail with 2,000 meters of elevation gain, El Pianista leads you through a moody cloud forest that’s dripping with life before arriving that the summit.
The trail made headlines around the world when two dutch girls in their early 20’s went missing back in 2014. Although officially ruled a hiking accident, many locals believe that Lisanne and Kris were met by foul play in the jungle.
The Lost Waterfalls
One of the more popular hikes in Boquete, The Lost Waterfalls trail winds through the dense jungle, over a suspension bridge, and culminates at 3 stunningly beautiful waterfalls.
Sendero Los Quetzales
Sendero Los Quetzales is a 15.6 mile trail that connects Boquete to Cerro Punta through the jungle. It’s common to hike sections of the path in search of the elusive Quetzal bird.
Volcan Baru
It’s often suggested to begin this 15 mile trail at midnight in order to reach the summit of the tallest mountain in Panama by sunrise. On a clear day, it’s possible to see both the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean from the top.
Whether you prefer sauntering along in search of diverse wildlife or grinding out elevation gains to the top of a peak, Boquete is truly a mecca for nature lovers and was hands down my favorite stop during our Panamanian adventure. Next time, I plan on spending far longer than 2 days hiking around the town!
Have you ever been to Boquete before? Have a favorite hike abroad? Let me know in the comments below!
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
It’s time for an upgrade! Here’s my favorite hiking gear:
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15 Incredible New Zealand Road Trip Stops: Your guide to uncovering the South Island's beauty
From Queenstown to the Milford Sound, New Zealand has plenty of natural beauty to offer, but what should you make time for during your trip? Here’s your guide to discovering 15 of the best road trip stops around the south island… you won’t be disappointed!
Please note: This post has been updated as of December 2023
New Zealand might seem like a blip on the map, but it is far more expansive than it appears.
The diversity of landscapes is unparalleled to anything I’ve ever encountered and with so much to offer, it can be overwhelming when attempting to narrow down what to see and where to go.
That’s certainly how I felt when my girlfriend and I planned a New Zealand road trip of our own last year.
So, I thought I’d throw together a short guide to unlocking the immense beauty that the south island holds. Here are 15 of the best road trip stops in New Zealand!
1. QUEENSTOWN
An adrenaline junkie’s heaven, Queenstown is situated on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and sits in the shadows of the famed Remarkable mountain range.
The raw beauty alone makes this stop worthwhile, but there’s plenty to do beyond staring at the surrounding mountainscape.
Strap yourself to the world’s first bungee jump and plummet 43 meters off of the Kawarau Bridge. or ride the Queenstown Gondola up to Skyline, a collection of restaurants, shops, and the most scenic zip-lining experience you’re likely to ever have. It’s also a perfect spot to observe the spectacular sunrise!
View from Queenstown Skyline
2. MOERAKI BOULDERS
The Moeraki Boulders are most easily described as unusual spherical rocks that dot the shoreline of Koekohe Beach along the south island’s Otago Coast.
Although formed through erosion of the adjacent coastal cliffs, Maori legend states that the boulders are remains of calabashes and eel baskets that washed ashore after the Araiteuru, a legendary canoe, capsized nearby.
Located 30min south of Oamaru, it makes for an easy day trip. Just be sure to visit during low tide, otherwise, the boulders become submerged in the South Pacific Ocean as the beach vanishes under the incoming water!
3. SLOPE POINT
The Catlins continues to be the hidden gem of the south island and here is where you will find Slope Point, the southernmost tip of New Zealand.
Once you’ve finished this short, albeit windy, walk out to the signpost, you’ll be standing closer to Antarctica than the equator, a pretty surreal experience if I’m being honest.
It takes less than an hour, is family-friendly and makes for a quick excursion along your road trip through the southern corridor of the island… just remember to pack a windbreaker!
Walk to Slope Point
4. PUNAKAIKI PANCAKE ROCKS
Hidden along the west coast is Punakaiki, best known for a collection of pancake rocks and blowholes that jut out into the Tasman Sea.
To get up close and personal with these 30 million-year-old limestone formations, take the short walking track that’s located across the highway from the visitors center.
Punakaiki is also the gateway to Paparoa National Park, so there are plenty of other activities in the area such as horseback riding, hiking, glow worm cave explorations, and more!
Punakaiki Pancake Rocks
5. HOKITIKA GLOW WORM DELL
Punakaiki is a great place to visit for a guided tour of the famous glow worms, but if your luck hasn’t panned out, be sure to make a quick stop in Hokitika.
Located along the side of the highway, the Hokitika Glow Worm Dell requires a 2 minute, family-friendly walk that’s well worth the small effort. Once the sun goes down, the walls of the forest light up with these luminescent creatures!
The best part? It’s completely free!
6. OAMARU BLUE PENGUIN COLONY
New Zealand prides itself on natural beauty and diverse wildlife, and the seaside town of Oamaru is no different.
It’s here you will find the Blue Penguin Colony, complete with nesting habitats and a grandstand for visitors to watch as the penguins make their return home from a long day at sea.
A visit is certainly not the cheapest of things to do (NZD 43 for general admission to the evening show), but to witness these creatures in their natural habitat is truly something special!
7. AORAKI NATIONAL PARK
Rising to over 3,700 meters, Mt. Cook is New Zealand’s largest peak and can be reached by visiting the sprawling Aoraki National Park.
Although the Hooker Valley Track is by far the most popular and easily accessible (and also leads to a glacier-filled lake in the winter months), there are plenty of other hikes to try as well.
Need to get your altitude fix in? Change things up and hop on a flight with nearby Lake Tekapo Air Safaris to view the landscape from above. Not that I didn’t already appreciate all that New Zealand has to offer, but being able to witness the expanse from the sky was a profound experience that I’ll never forget!
Hooker Valley Trek in Aoraki National Park
8. LAKE TEKAPO
Located just under an hour from Aoraki National Park sits the town of Tekapo, on the shores of… you guessed it… Lake Tekapo.
This tiny community packs a punch as the turquoise waters competing for your attention with the views of the Southern Alps across the horizon.
Make sure to visit the Church of the Good Shepherd, a small stone sanctuary that looks out over the water or stay the night and stare in awe of the expansive starry sky, taking full advantage of Tekapo’s distinction as an International Dark Sky Reserve. It will blow your mind, I promise!
Lake Tekapo as seen from Mt. John Observatory
9. CHRISTCHURCH
If not arriving through Queenstown, Christchurch will likely be your point of entry.
Do yourself a favor and set aside time to explore the town before starting your road trip as there’s plenty to do and see!
Take a jaunt through the Christchurch Botanical Gardens (NZD 25) or enjoy the surrounding scenery as you have a bite to eat aboard the Tramway Restaurant.
10. KAIKOURA
The sleepy seaside town of Kaikoura is located at the base of the Kaikoura mountain range and along the coast of the South Pacific Ocean.
It’s best known for having its own resident sperm whale population, making it the ideal spot to get out on the water with a whale watching tour.
Not confident in your sea legs? That’s ok! Take a stroll along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway and spot the colony of fur seals that reside on the nearby rocks.
With the mountains, sea and an abundance of wildlife, this is a road trip stop you won’t want to miss!
Dolphins in Kaikoura, New Zealand
11. FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK
Also known as Te Wahipounamu, or “the place of greenstone,” Fiordland National Park can be found in the southwestern corner of the island.
With over 500km of trails, this slice of mountainous paradise offers hikers the chance to explore some of the most dramatic landscapes in all of the world. It’s so stunning that the park itself was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990.
Three of New Zealand’s Great Walks can also be found here: the Milford Track, the Kepler Track, and the Routeburn.
Here’s the moral of the story: Don’t just cruise in and out to visit the Milford or Doubtful Sounds, make sure you take some time to experience all that it has to offer!
Fiordland National Park
12. LAKE OHAU
It’s certainly not as popular as nearby Lake Pukaki or Lake Tekapo, but that doesn’t mean you should pass it by!
This off-the-beaten-path location is the perfect stop for a mini hideaway and offers the chance to ski at the Ohau Snow Fields or ride a section of the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. Be sure to say hi to Mike and Louise, the longtime owners and operators of the Lake Ohau Lodge and a friendly bunch, to say the least.
The drive through the McKenzie High Country to reach this remote location is worth it in its own right as the trademark yellow and orange hues of the fields sit in the shadows of the Southern Alps. The raw beauty here is truly unrivaled.
13. ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK
Rainforests, waterfalls, golden beaches, and the beautiful ocean. Do you need me to name more reasons as to why you should swing by Abel Tasman National Park during your road trip? Although it’s New Zealand’s smallest national park, there are plenty of adventures to be had.
Low on time but still want to get out and stretch the legs? Take the short walk through the lush forest, over the swinging bridges, and up to Wainui Falls.
The hike is suitable for the entire family and, depending on impromptu stops along the way, should take just over an hour to complete.
We didn’t have long here during our travels, but the waterfall-rich forests seemingly colliding with the ocean made me feel as though I had truly discovered paradise.
14. WANAKA
This lakefront town is full of shops, restaurants, and cafes along the main road, providing a healthy dose of social interaction!
Here is where you will find That Wanaka Tree. It is what it sounds like, a tree in Lake Wanaka, and is one of the most popular things to photograph around town.
Wanaka also serves as the perfect home base to hike up to Roys Peak for stunning views towards Mt. Aspiring National Park. As popular as the trail is, it’s not the easiest of workouts, so make sure to do your research and plan accordingly.
Visiting in the winter months? Make some turns at the Treble Cone or Cardrona ski areas!
Much like Queenstown, Wanaka certainly opens the door to a seemingly endless amount of adventures.
Skiing at Treble Cone
15. MILFORD SOUND
Widely touted as New Zealand’s most spectacular attraction, Milford Sound is truly a sight to behold.
Hop on a cruise and get up close and personal with hundreds of waterfalls as they cascade down from the peaks above, or book a kayaking tour for a more serene experience.
We were lucky in that our visit coincided with a recent rainstorm that filled the waterfalls to max capacity and left a layer of clouds that slowly glided between the fiords.
It’s easy to hop on a fully-planned tour from nearby Queenstown, so there’s no reason to not visit this remote part of the country!
Milford Sound
Although I highly recommend these 15 stops based on my adventures, it’s important to note that New Zealand is full of less-traveled nooks and crannies, so be sure to improvise a bit on your road trip. After all, you never know what’s right around the corner until you check it out yourself.
Cheers to a great adventure ahead! Have you traveled through New Zealand’s south island before? What are some spots I should visit the next time I go? Let me know in the comments below and as always, stay safe & happy travels!
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The Ultimate New Zealand Road Trip: An 8 day campervan adventure around the south island
Planning a trip to New Zealand? Be sure to check out this guide about traveling around the south island and discover some of the most beautiful landscapes on the planet. From choosing your route to where to stay and what to do, this post has everything you need to say “let’s go” and book that next adventure!
Please note: All info below is up to date as of May 2023
If I could handpick one destination for you to experience, it’d be New Zealand. An outdoor adventurer’s paradise, the two islands combine for a population of under 5 million inhabitants and come complete with sprawling scenery that begs to be explored. With nearly 33% of the country protected under the national parks system, it’s not hard to stumble upon pure and untouched nature!
It was just over a year ago that Heather and I crammed our backpacks full of winter jackets, caught a flight from LAX, and traveled south for our first campervan experience - driving around New Zealand’s south island.
With only eight days to spare, we knew it’d be long hours on the road and a lot of activities to cram into a short period, but we were committed to making it happen.
Whatever you choose to do and wherever you go in New Zealand, you won't regret booking a plane ticket!
One quick note about campervans in New Zealand: It’s vital to know the classification of the vehicle you’re renting and how that relates to your camping options. Many free sites around the country are for self-contained vehicles only, meaning that the van must be equipped with a toilet and grey water tank. After crunching some numbers, we calculated that springing for the slightly more expensive Jucy Chaser would save us money on accommodations because of it’s “self-contained” status.
BEGIN IN QUEENSTOWN
One of my favorite parts about visiting New Zealand is simply arriving. The flight path into Queenstown yields mind-blowing landscapes. It’s a pretty special feeling as you step onto the tarmac, look up and see The Remarkables in all their glory.
Pro Tip: Snag a window seat on the left side of the plane for the best views.
From here, we picked up our campervan and drove straight to Lake Pukaki for our first overnight.
Total Drive Time: 2hr 45min
Overnight Stay: Lake Pukaki Overnight Campervan Parking. Onsite toilets are available, but there are no powered sites. Non-self contained vehicles are allowed.
Road trip map of New Zealand
DAY 1: LAKE PUKAKI AND MT. COOK NATIONAL PARK
Why you should go: Lake Pukaki is the sole access point to Mt. Cook National Park, home to New Zealand’s tallest mountain (3,765m). It’s also the country’s deadliest peak, accounting for nearly 80 reported casualities since the early part of the 20th century.
With tons of hiking to choose from, you can be sure that there’s something for all ages and fitness levels. Looking for a view of Mt. Cook? Try the Hooker Valley Track. Although it’s one of the most popular hikes, the 10.5km round trip path takes adventurers over swinging bridges and through the valley before reaching Hooker Lake, all at only 100m of elevation gain - talk about bang for your buck! Whichever hike you choose, I guarantee you will encounter some of the most breathtaking scenery in all the world. For a comprehensive list of hikes within Mt. Cook National Park, click here.
Lake Pukaki is also an optimal basecamp for exploring nearby Lake Tekapo or hopping on a scenic flight to soak up the spectacular aerial views. My personal recommendation would be Air Safaris; great service and a variety of options to fit any budget!
Must Do: Hooker Valley Trek and Air Safari Tour
Total Drive Time: 4 hrs. (Tekapo to Amberley Beach). Make sure to enjoy the views as you drive over Burke’s Pass along Highway 8!
Overnight Stay: Amberley Beach Reserve. Any vehicle is welcome to camp here, with both powered and non-powered sites available. The campground also offers toilets and bucket shower stalls and costs between $5-25 NZD per night, depending on your chosen site and vehicle.
Planning to stay longer in Lake Tekapo? Here’s a list of things to do and see:
Hike to the Mt. John Observatory for sweeping views over Lake Tekapo
Test your hand at astrophotography (Tekapo is a designated International Dark Sky Reserve)
Take flight high above Mt. Cook with Air Safaris as your guide to truly grasp the magnificence of the area
Relax in the Tekapo Hot Springs
Hooker Valley Trek at Mt. Cook National Park
DAY 2: KAIKOURA
Why you should go: The beauty of New Zealand is that you don’t need to be either a water person or a mountain person; you can be both! The sleepy seaside town of Kaikoura can attest. Located at the base of the aptly named Kaikoura mountain range, it is widely known for its resident sperm whale population, making it THE perfect place to hop on a boat and experience the wildlife from the water. Not a fan of the open sea? No problem. Stroll along the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway to the rock platforms and prepare to “ooh” and “ahh” when you stumble upon a colony of fur seals!
Must Do: Whale watching in the South Pacific Ocean. We used Whale Watch Kaikoura and had an incredible time. Make sure to book in advance as spots fill up fast, even in the winter months!
Total Drive Time: 6 hrs. (2 hrs. from Amberley to Kaikoura and 4 hrs. from Kaikoura to Motueka)
Overnight Stay: Motueka Beach Reserve. This is a free camping area that only allows self-contained vehicles. It comes complete with toilets, showers, designated fire and cooking areas, and is located adjacent to the Motueka Salt Baths, just in case you feel the urge to take a quick dip in the Tasman Bay.
Kaikoura, New Zealand
DAY 3: ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK
Why you should go: What do you get when you add rainforests to waterfalls and and sprinkle golden sand beaches on top? Paradise. Spread along the south island's northern coast, this national park is most well known for the Abel Tasman Coast Track as it winds its way 60km along the pristine water. This particular hike takes a bit of advanced planning, but it is still possible to experience the region by trekking to nearby to Wainui Falls. This 3.4km out and back trail maneuvers it's way through the lush rainforest and over suspension bridges before arriving at the stunning waterfall. Be sure to take a quick dip in the frigid waters and make sure to have a towel at the ready!
Must Do: Wainui Falls was an incredible hike, but our favorite part of the day was simply driving and exploring the area, especially Highway 60 up and over Takaka Hill.
Total Drive Time: 4.5 hrs. ( 1.5 hrs. from Motueka to Abel Tasman National Park and 3 hrs. from Abel Tasman to Murchison)
Overnight Stay: Riverside Holiday Park (Murchison). From 3 bedroom cabins to non-powered tent sites, this accommodation has something for everyone. The facility comes complete with a community kitchen, flushing toilets, and warm showers… this holiday park certainly spoiled us! We opted to rent a powered site for just $35 NZD ($22 USD) in order to hook up the heater in our van to keep us warm during a rainy night.
Want to learn more about this island nation? Check out these 30 Interesting Facts About New Zealand!
Day 4: PUNAKAIKI AND HOKITIKA
Why you should go: Stunning coastline and glow worms galore! The western part of the south island is like nothing I had ever seen before. Lush rainforests stretch from high above in the Southern Alps to the Tasman Sea below.
Driving aimlessly along Highway 6 and spontaneously stopping as you go is worth it in its own right, however this part of the island is where you can find two popular destinations: Punakaiki and Hokitika.
Punakaiki is home to the curious limestone formations known as Pancake Rocks, the perfect place to take a short 1.1km walk around these geological oddities and stretch your legs.
Pro Tip: Try to time your visit around high tide. This is when the surge pools and blowholes will be most active, leading to a truly spectacular show of forece from the ocean.
Feeling adventurous? Bring a headlamp and take a quick detour to the Punakaiki Cavern, located just north of the Pancake Rocks along Highway 6. Don’t forget to look up to spot the glow worms and stalacites as you descend into the darkness!
If you have trouble spotting the glow worms in Punakaiki, don’t worry, so did we! Keep driving south to Hokitika and you’ll find the Hokitika Glow Worm Dell. Located directly off of Highway 6, this leafy canyon is a protected home to these intriguing creatures.
Make sure to go at night as they illuminate the path. It’s free and only a 2 minute walk from the roadside, making it the perfect alternative if you don't have time or budget for an organized tour.
Did you know that the light emitted from these worms isn’t just mesmerizing to the human eye? It’s used to attract their food, luring insects and trapping them in their sticky threads!
Must Do: Hokitika Glow Worm Dell
Total Drive Time: 3 hrs, with PLENTY of roadside stops along the way
Overnight Stay: Hokitika Holiday Park. Powered sites start at $20 NZD per person and access to the community kitchen, lounge area, showers, playground, and free wifi!
Views from Highway 6
DAY 5: FOX JOSEF AND FRANZ GLACIERS
Why you should go: Where else can you hike through the rainforest en route to a glacier? The answer is nowhere!
Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers are the only two that exist in the world. Both offer a unique experience, trekking through the lush forest and up ice-carved valleys to their terminal faces.
The Franz Josef Walk is a 5.4km path up to the 7,000 year old sheet of ice, while the Fox Glacier Valley Walk is a 6km trail that follows the south bank of the Fox River through the ancient podocarp rainforest. A professional guide is needed to access the glacier if you're looking to get more up close and personal.
Check out Franz Josef Glacier Tours and choose your adventure: ice climbing, heli-hiking, and more!
Must Do: The Franz Josef Glacier Walk
Total Drive Time: 4 hrs. to Haast, with stops at both the Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers
Overnight Stay: Haast River Holiday Park. This powered site is slightly more expensive at $48 NZD per night, but provided access to the kitchen, showers, and wifi. Onsite motel rooms are also available.
Franz Josef Glacier from above
DAY 6: WANAKA (TRANSIT TO MILFORD SONUD)
Why you should go: Located on the southern shore of Lake Wanaka, this town is the perfect stopover en route to the Milford Sound. Snap a picture of That Wanaka Tree or simply enjoy a flat white as you peruse the stores along the waterfront.
Have a bit more time to spare? Take a jaunt up Roy’s Peak, a steep 16km trek that ends in sweeping views over the surrounding landscape.
Must Do: Stroll along Lake Wanaka
Total Drive Time: 5.5 hrs. from Haast to Cascade Creek Campground (brief stops in Wanaka and Te’Anu)
Overnight Stay: Cascade Creek Campground. This is the closest campground to the Milford Sound without making reservations in advance and costs just $15 NZD per person. Toilets are available, however powered sites are not. It’s the perfect place to spend the night if you have an early morning cruise of the sound scheduled for the following day!
Pro Tip: Fill up your gas tank in Te’Anu… it’s the last stop you’ll find before reaching the Milford Sound.
DAY 7: FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK AND MILFORD SOUND
Why you should go: With cascading waterfalls that plummet over the fjords and into the serene waters below, this cherished corner of the world is filled with unrivaled beauty.
The best way to experience the sound is from the water, so be sure to hop on a nature discovery cruise. There are plenty of tour operators to choose from so it’s possible to shop around for the right fit for your wallet. Pro Tip: If you rent a vehicle from Jucy, you’ll receive a $30 discount when you book through Jucy Cruise!
Once your mind has been properly blown, spend some time exploring the rest of the 1.2 million hectares of land that makeup Fiordland National Park. For a full list of hikes available, click here.
Must Do: Cruise the Milford Sound
Total Drive Time: 5 hrs (1 hr from Cascade Creek Campground to Milford Sound and 4 hrs from the Milford Sound to Weirs Beach Campground)
Overnight Stay: Weirs Beach Campground. This is a free site that welcomes any type of vehicle! Non-powered sites only, but bathrooms are available.
Milford Sound, New Zealand
DAY 8: THE CATLINS COAST
Why you should go: Peace, serenity, and wildlife. Oh, and inching closer to Antarctica!
Comprised of the southeastern part of the island, The Catlins aren’t frequently visited by most, but are well worth the effort to get there.
Take a short, albeit windy, walk out to Slope Point and you’ll find yourself standing closer to Antarctica than to the equator.
Beyond creeping closer to the ice continent, The Catlins is one of the best spots to find an abundance of yellow-eyed penguins, sea lions, and starry nights.
Visiting in the winter months? Hunt down the southern lights! This forecast will help make sure that you don’t miss out.
Must Do: Slope Point
Total Drive Time: 3.25 hrs. back to Queenstown to complete the trip!
Overnight Stay: Turner Heights Townhouses (Queenstown). Between the aerial views of Queenstown and the easy walk to Lake Wakatipu, this was the perfect accommodation for our final night!
Slope Point, New Zealand
Have you given yourself more than just one night in Queenstown? Here’s a short list of things to see and do:
Play footygolf with The Remarkables as your backdrop at the Frankton Golf Centre
Wake up early and climb to the top of Queenstown Hill for sunrise
Enjoy breakfast along the water at Vudu Cafe
Take the plunge at the world’s first bungy jump (AJ Hackett Bungy)
Trek up the Tiki Trail for picture perfect views above Queenstown with The Remarkables as a backdrop
Meander along the shores of Lake Wakatipu in the evening light
Although we managed to condense a lot into a short amount of time in New Zealand, we certainly didn’t come close to scratching the surface of all that this nature lover’s paradise has to offer. At the end of the day, it’s important to realize that this itinerary is in no way perfect. It’s merely a starting point for you to pull out a map and begin planning an adventure of your own. After all, I find that some of the best memories are made before the trip has even begun!
Have you been to New Zealand before? What was your favorite part? I want to hear from you in the comments below!
Thanks for stopping by and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
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The Ultimate Guide to Crater Lake National Park: Everything you need to know for a day full of adventure
Crater Lake National Park has grown in popularity over the years, but it still wildly underrated amongst the National Parks. Here is your guide to getting the most of your 24 hours exploring the area!
All information below is up to date as of April 2023.
A mere 42,000 years ago, Mt. Mazama rose through the present-day Oregon wilderness to 12,000 feet above sea level. Fast forward 5,000 years, the volcano experienced its largest eruption ever, spewing magma as far as 40 miles while spreading ash as far north as Canada and as far south as Nevada.
The sheer magnitude of this eruption caused Mt. Mazama to lose so much of its structure that it could no longer support the peak of the volcano, forcing it to cave in on itself and thus creating the caldera that now holds what is known as Crater Lake. Gradually over the years, snowmelt and rain began to fill the new hole in the ground, forming the deepest lake in the United States of America (1,943 ft/595 m).
Here’s how to make the most of your time at Crater Lake National Park and some tips and tricks to avoiding crowds!
WHEN TO VISIT
Crater Lake sits at an elevation of 6,178ft. and gets an average snowfall of 48ft., meaning that the park is buried from October through June. The southern entrance is the only way to access the park during this time and the rim road turns into skiing trails.
This makes July through September the prime months to visit, with high temps of around 67 degrees during the day and as low as 40 degrees at night.
It’s important to note that the number of visitors to Crater Lake National Park has skyrocketed in recent years. The National Park Service reported that annual totals jumped as much as 23% between 2015-2016, so if there’s a need for overnight accommodation in your itinerary, be sure to research and book in advance.
Wizard Island from above
GETTING THERE
Crater Lake National Park is located in southwestern Oregon. Medford is the closest major town (to the south).
From Eugene:
2.25 hours drive time
The fastest route is to take OR 58 through Oakridge, then route 97 to 138
Alternatively, you can also use I-5 to Wilbur before picking up 138 east
Enter at the northern gate
From Medford:
1.25 hours drive time
Follow OR 62-E the entire way
Enter at the southern gate
WHAT TO PACK
With the high elevation, exercise caution on sunny days. Bring a good amount of sunscreen along with a hat and sunglasses, especially if you plan on spending your afternoon exploring by foot.
Pack a picnic lunch and enjoy the views at one of the several overlooks along the rim road.
There are plenty of places to re-fill water bottles along the way, but be sure pack enough to get by. It’s easy to get dehydrated between the altitude and sunshine.
If you plan on hiking, bring bug spray. We didn’t have any problems, but always better to be safe than sorry!
Don’t forget your camera… just remember: adventure first, pictures second.
Here’s what we brought with us:
ENTRANCE FEES
The current rates are as follows (as of February 2023):
$20 per vehicle (November 1 to mid-May) or $30 per vehicle (mid-May to October)
$25 per motorcycle (May 22 - October 31) or $15 per motorcycle (November 1 to mid-May)
Annual Park Pass accepted ($55)
Consider purchasing your pass ahead of time online which can be a big asset if visiting during peak hours, saving you from having to wait in line at the entrance booths.
HOW TO EXPLORE THE PARK
Right off the bat, my number one piece of advice would be to get there early. This will provide a few moments of solitude to appreciate the surrounding beauty. We left our home in Corvallis at 5:30 am, determined to get at least one hike completed before the crowds descended upon the park and it ended up paying dividends.
The best, and easiest, way to explore is to plan to drive around the rim. This 32.93-mile road circumnavigates the entire lake, offering the chance to pull off as you please and enjoy the views. We entered at the northern gate and decided to drive counterclockwise. Our well-rounded plan included several shorter hikes, covering an overlook, a waterfall, and swimming in the lake. Here’s how it went:
The Watchman Peak Trail
A brief word to the wise: this trail is popular. It was the first thing we did after arriving and we enjoyed the views at the top with two or three other groups. When we passed the trailhead on our way out of the park, it looked like a small army of ants climbing to the top.
The trailhead is located at 3.7 mi. north and west from the Rim Village. The path starts from the southern end of a paved parking lot, sharing it with the Watchman Overlook Viewpoint.
The trail itself is a 1.6mi. roundtrip trail with 387ft. of elevation gain and is a steady incline the entire way. Small children and grandparents were able to get up and down without hiking poles, but the extra equipment certainly wouldn’t hurt.
From the top, you’ll be treated to vast 360-degree views from the western end of the lake. Directly below you’ll see Wizard Island, the vantage point providing the perfect view of the volcanic cone.
For more information on reaching and hiking the island, visit this comprehensive guide from Just Go Travel Studios.
Looking to the north, you’ll be able to spot other volcanos within the High Cascade range, including Mt. Bailey, Diamond Peak, and Mt. Thielsen.
Back at the bottom, we continued driving southeast along the rim road towards the Rim Village. Bathrooms are accessible around most of the park, but they are not available at every trailhead. If you need to go, make sure to use the ones in the parking lot before leaving.
Along this route, you will run into Vidae Falls on your left. From the pull-out, you’ll be able to see the 100ft. cascading waterfall, but there’s not much more to do here other than get out and take a quick peek before continuing.
Plaikni Falls Hike
To reach the start of the trail for Plaikni Falls, turn right onto Pinnacle Road just before reaching the Phantom Ship Overlook. After driving another 1.2mi., you will see the parking area on your left. Note: There are no bathrooms available at this trailhead.
The path is an easy walk for all ages, winding 2.2mi. (round trip) through the old-growth forest before reaching Sand Creek where rushing water, wildflowers, and butterflies are waiting to greet visitors. We didn’t have any problems with mosquitoes, but reports have stated otherwise, so make sure you have the bug spray ready and available for this one.
There isn’t much space to hang out by the waterfall, especially if there is a lot of traffic on the trail, but it’s worth it to have a look.
Due to its short length and popularity, the trail can become quite congested during peak hours. As is the case with most hikes, the earlier you can arrive, the better.
View of Plaikni Falls
Lunch at Victor View
An unmarked overlook, Victor View provided the perfect spot for a quick lunch away from the crowds. Despite the heavy traffic, we only saw three other cars pull over here. It is the second pull-off (on your left) after the Phantom Ship.
There’s a short trail that has been carved out that will take you through the trees and provide you with unobstructed views across Crater Lake and towards Wizard Island, as well as Cloudcap Bay to the right. Exercise caution as the ground quickly turns from packed dirt to sand and loose stone.
This viewpoint placed us in a perfect location to take a post-lunch drive up to the Cloudcap Overlook, which can be reached by taking the highest paved road in Oregon.
Looking towards Cloudcap Bay
Cloudcap Overlook
One of the most popular overlooks in all of Crater Lake National Park, you’ll be treated to expansive westward views across the caldera once at the top. Be aware that you may have to fight a busload or two of tourists to catch a glimpse of the scenery.
You won’t be disappointed with the views if you’re able to find a spot, but the entire park is stunning so we felt comfortable skipping it this time around.
Shortly after departing Cloudcap Overlook and reuniting with the rim road, we passed the trailhead for Mt. Scott. This is the highest point of Crater Lake. Although only a 4.2-mile round trip hike, it wasn’t on our itinerary for the day due to limited time. Instead, we continued to Cleetwood Cove — it was time to get wet!
Cleetwood Cove Trail
It’s important to note that Cleetwood Cove Trail DESCENDS to the lake, meaning the way back up will be the grueling part. We passed quite a few unhappy faces on their way to the parking lot.
At only 2.2mi. round trip, the way down is quite easy via the switchback trail, with Crater Lake peeking out from between the trees. Eventually, the boat docks will appear. Continue following the trail and you will soon see where everyone is swimming.
I was surprised by how crowded it was, but I guess it makes sense. After all, who would pass up the chance to swim in a lake with a collapsed volcano beneath the surface? Not us!
After taking a dip and enjoying the water-level views, tie your laces tight to start climbing the 700ft. back to the trailhead. Pro Tip: Bring closed-toed shoes. Many parts of the trail are soft, making it difficult to navigate in sandals. Several cut-outs along the path provide an oasis-like seating area to rest and catch your breath. If you go in the afternoon, make sure to bring water and stay hydrated!
Hiking Cleetwood Cove Trail
Cleetwood Cove was our final stop of the day before leaving the park and driving home. When it was all said and done, we had spent nearly 7 hours exploring the area and cumulatively hiking 6 miles; a full day of adventure that left our legs tired, our clothes dirty, and our faces beaming with delight!
Although visitor numbers are on the rise, the park didn’t even crack the top 10 most visited in 2018, presenting the unique opportunity to enjoy Crater Lake National Park without the large crowds that other places such as Yellowstone and Zion regularly experience. We highly recommend it!
More information can be found by visiting the National Park Service website.
Have you had experiences of your own? Be sure to leave them in the comments below!
As always, stay safe & happy travels!
A friendly reminder to comply with all rules and regulations regarding National Parks. It’s up to us to protect and preserve the Earth, so stick to established trails and leave only your footprints behind! Crater Lake also attracts cyclists from around the world, so be sure to share the road and use caution when driving around the rim.
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Chasing Choclon Waterfall: Discovering paradise in the Panamanian jungle
As I combed through the research prior to our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it. There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us where it was located…
Let me clarify one thing right from the beginning: we weren’t actually in the middle of nowhere. That’s simply how it felt, and to be honest, that’s just the way we like it!
As I combed through the research before our trip to Panama, I came across a picture of a swimming hole that blew me away. The moment I saw it, I knew we needed to experience it (click here to see the original post I found).
There was only one problem: nothing I read would tell us the location, let alone how to navigate the hike.
I stumbled deep into the black hole of the internet, searching for any clues that might point us in the right direction. The only objective I accomplished that day was leaving a solid imprint of my butt on the couch cushion. Disappointing, to say the least.
That might be enough to call it quits for some, but it only fueled the fire within. The longer I went without finding what I was looking for, the more determined I became. We were going to find a way to Cascada Choclón. There was no doubt in my mind.
All of the sudden a beam of sunlight shot into the living room. No, it wasn’t actually that dramatic, but shortly after opening the window blinds I came across our first solid lead.
It’s possible that “solid” is a gross overstatement. The website merely provided the GPS coordinates for the trailhead. It wasn’t much to go on, but that was enough to get the ball rolling!
I continued scouring every piece of information that I could find. When I took a closer look at satellite imaging, there was a portion where the jungle appeared to part along the river, providing a much-needed hint to where the falls may be.
Now that I had a starting point and a general direction, it seemed like this may pan out. Fast forward to arriving in Panama: it was time for the adventure!
As soon as we turned off the main road in Boquete, we quickly became grateful that we opted for the SUV rental. The pavement disappeared, our cell service wasn’t far behind.
The farther we drove, the slower we went, carefully maneuvering over every bump, boulder, and hole in the road. As the minutes ticked by, so did our confidence even though neither of us would ever vocalize it.
After what felt like hours, we had reached the starting point.
The car came to a halt and a cloud of dust from our tires quickly engulfed our field of vision. Once it cleared, we realized how “off the beaten track” we were. The sounds of the jungle beckoned beyond the open field that lay ahead. One last look at our maps and we were off.
The hike started by traversing through an open meadow as the sun beat down our backs, the humidity making it impossible for any relief. Upon reaching the first junction, we referred to our makeshift maps and descended to the forest floor, following the sounds of the river below.
As we trekked deeper into the brush, the canopy quickly began to rise straight towards the sky, providing a much-needed relief from the heat. Our compass instructed us to go left around a closed gate, but our ears directed us to the right, towards the sound of the rushing water. We stood there confused, unsure of what to do.
At this point the sun forced us to perspire off our umpteen layers of sunscreen and bug spray, leaving us susceptible to the mosquitoes that began swarming around. We were in no position to have a lengthy debate. Lacking confidence in either direction, we climbed back out to the trailhead.
Maybe we had incorrectly interpreted our map. Maybe if we walked another direction we would discover a different, easier way to reach the river.
It seemed like a good idea at the time but, as it turned out, we were wrong. Very wrong.
As we continued down the gravel road the intensity of the sun drained all of our energy. I could feel my body temperature rising, but I was too exhausted to do anything about it. Each step we took was met with an unsuccessful prayer for cloud cover.
Ten minutes and a new sunburn later, we had reached another dead end.
This was the point that every ounce of my being was telling me to pack up and call it a day. Our motivation was waning, the heat was relentless, and we were out of ideas as we slowly retreated back to the car. I remember Heather cracking jokes along the way, trying to make light of the situation and keep my morale in tact.
A second look at the scattered research revealed a small access path farther down the dirt road. Maybe that was what we were looking for, so we decided to keep driving north.
No luck.
I could tell that Heather wasn’t too sure about continuing and, to be honest, even after regrouping in the air-conditioned car, I wasn’t either. As a rainstorm moved through, we took the time to reevaluate what we were doing.
We felt assured and frustrated at the same time. Confident that we were in the general vicinity. Annoyed that no matter how we approached it, we couldn’t find what we were searching for.
The road back to the original trailhead provided some much-needed perspective as we passed run-down homes with missing walls and children playing in the rain. I couldn’t help but think of the number of tourists that travel through Panama each year and yet had no idea that this part of the country existed. Although we concluded that we would give our adventure one more try, I decided that after the experience we had up to that point, I would be content no matter what. After all, it was Dan Eldon that once said, “The journey is the destination.”
Once we descended back into the jungle, reached the gate, and shuffled our way around it, we were back on track and heading in the right direction.
We quickly descended farther into the forest floor, hugging a makeshift PVC pipe railing along a ridge and using the vines as support as we worked our way down into the canyon. The path was completely overgrown with thick brush rising far above our heads. Thrusting the branches aside, we did our best to stick to the trail quickly narrowed with each step.
The ecosystem of any jungle is the most diverse in the world, often-times leading to regular discoveries of new plants and animals. Panama alone is home to over 1,500 kinds of trees and five species of cats, including jaguars, ocelots, and pumas. It feels eerie yet humbling to be amongst it; a place where the silence is deafening and only broken by an occasional howler monkey crying out in the distance or a bird rummaging amongst the fallen leaves for food.
We silently trekked along the forest floor, remaining vigilant of our surroundings.
The moment we began to feel comfortable, a loud crash echoed through the forest and left us frozen in our tracks. We exchanged nervous glances, trying to control our breathing and telepathically communicate what to do next.
Tip-toeing forward as quietly as possible, we did our best to avoid the branches that covered our path. Needless to say it was a humbling reminder that regardless of how isolated we felt, we weren’t alone.
Finally, the thick brush parted and the bank of the river appeared, reinvigorating the idea that we could find these waterfalls.
We searched up and down the river for a way to cross, but it quickly became clear that it wouldn’t be as simple as jumping between rocks. We would have to carefully select the path of least resistance.
Although our faces may have expressed doubt, we were so close that we could feel it. There was no turning back.
The path continued to disappear before our eyes, winding its way through the overgrown brush before depositing us back onto the rocks and leaving us with newly acquired scrapes up and down our legs.
We continued moving northwest, systematically evaluating every step we took as our feet slipped off the rocks. The energy in the forest changed from nervousness to excitement as we inched closer. We were nearly there.
Just beyond the final bend of the river, the waterfalls were waiting to greet us. It was even more majestic than I had seen in the pictures.
We were left speechless as we peered towards an amphitheater of hanging vines and cascading waterfalls.
The beautiful blue waters of the pool were irresistible. We couldn’t help but jump in and soak up the moment. A rush of emotions engulfed us, leaving nothing but a sense of relief, gratefulness, peace. We had uncovered paradise in the Panamanian jungle. More importantly, we never gave up.
The forest floor quickly grew dark as the sun began to drop below the horizon, signaling that it was time to pack up and move out.
Back on the trail we went, accompanied by the beautiful silence, this time with no unexpected noises.
We made it to the car unscathed, feeling sunburnt and dehydrated yet eternally grateful for all that had happened that day. After all, we had found our own slice of Panama that, at that moment, felt truly untouched.
As I reflect on the adventure we had, I can’t help but think of one of my favorite quotes from the late Anthony Bourdain: “The journey is part of the experience - an expression of the seriousness of one’s intent. One doesn’t take the A train to Mecca.”
What have been some of your greatest journeys? Feel free to share in the comments below.
Thanks for reading and as always, stay safe & happy travels.
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