Africa, Ghana, hiking, guide Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, hiking, guide Chris Toone

Climbing Mount Afadjato: A Complete Guide to Hiking Ghana's Tallest Mountain

If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region. When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven…

Note: All information below is accurate as of April 2025

If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region.

When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven.

Standing at 885 meters (2,904 feet), Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s tallest mountain and offers stunning views of surrounding villages, verdant forests, and even neighboring Togo.

Even more, it’s located in a small, peaceful village with plenty of other trails and waterfalls to explore, including my favorite place to stay: Tagbo Falls Lodge.

Fancy a bit of outdoor adventure on your trip to Ghana? Mount Afadjato is for you!

The view from hiking Ghana's tallest peak, Mount Afadjato

The view of the Volta Region while hiking Mount Afadjato in Ghana

HISTORY & MEANING OF MOUNT AFADJATO

Mount Afadjato derives its name from the Ewe word “Avadzeto,” meaning “at war with the bush.”

As the Ewe tribe settled here from Togo, they were prone to attacks from wild animals. The village revolted, pushing them back into the mountains but as they reached the forest, they were overcome by plants making them itch.

Afadja, Afadjato, it’s all the same! Another way to break it down in the Ewe language: ‘Afar’ means ‘war’, ‘dja’ means ‘plant’, and ‘to’ means ‘mountain.

Despite the name and history, I’m happy to report that the itching plants have since been tamed and it is very safe to hike the trails (but consider long pants, just in case)!

The area remains a symbol of pride for the Ewe people, as Mount Afadja is believed to house the spirits of their ancestors who look over and protect the surrounding communities.



LOCATION AND HOW TO GET THERE

Nestled in the mountains that border Togo, the trailhead is located in the small village of Liati Wote in Ghana’s Volta Region. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to get to Mount Afadjato:

  • By Car: From Accra, take the Accra–Hohoe road and follow signs to Liati Wote. The roads are well-maintained (for the most part), making the drive smooth and scenic as you wind through the mountains. The drive should take ~6 hours.

  • By Public Transport: Buses and shared taxis from Accra to Hohoe are affordable. From Hohoe, hire a taxi or take a shared ride to Liati Wote. Another option is to take a tro-tro to Golokwati, but this often requires 2-3 changes in vehicles along the way.

  • From Nearby Attractions: If you’re already exploring Wli Waterfalls or Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, Liati Wote is just a short drive away (20-40 min depending on where you’re coming from).

If you don’t want to plan your own transportation, consider one of these pre-arranged tours from Get Your Guide. They depart Accra and sort travel, food, and accommodations along the way!

Pro Tip: Whenever I can, I try to travel around Ghana on Sundays. Everyone is in church and this means much less traffic and dangers on the road – and I get to where I’m going quicker! I have my own car, but your safest option is to either rent or hire a reliable taxi. Although cheap, tro-tros (Ghana’s public transportation) are prone to breakdowns and accidents.

Aerial view of Liati Wote as seen from the trail of Mount Afadjato in Ghana's Volta Region

Aerial view of Liati Wote as seen from the trail of Mount Afadjato in Ghana’s Volta Region

ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS

Liati Wote markets itself as a tourist village (don’t worry, I was initially turned off by this as well, but it’s not what we’re used to when we see that tagline).

There are plenty of tours and options available around town, including multi-day hiking, local gin tours, and surrounding waterfalls, but be warned that each one requires a guide (this is used as a means to boost the local economy).

You can find a guide and look at the options available by checking in at the Liati Wote Toursim Office upon arrival, located at the base of Mount Afadja on the main road of town and typically open 8am, daily.

The tourism office accepts cash only, so come prepared as there are no ATMs within a one hour radius.

Hiking only Mount Afadjato requires a modest fee:

  • Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)

  • Non-Ghanaians: 50 GHS (USD 3)

You can add on and combine with a trip to Tagbo Falls (GHS 40/USD 2.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 80/USD 5 for non Ghanaians), or continue past Mount Afadjato to Mount Aduadu (GHS 70/USD 4.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 100/USD 6.50 for non-Ghanaians).

A Note on Guide Fees: Guides for hiking Mount Afadjato and surrounding tours don’t get paid from trail fees, so come prepared to tip them for their service to support their income. For this hike, GHS 50-100 is reasonable (USD 3-6).

The trail fees do, however, contribute to maintaining the paths and supporting local community projects, such as their recycling initiative – something that is unique to this village!

Pro Tip: There are many guides and not many visitors, meaning it’s important to find one of quality. The only one I’ll use is Faith (+233 55 083 0914). I will meet him at the reception office, pay the entrance fee, give him a tip, and often he’ll let me take myself on the trail!

WHAT TO EXPECT: HIKING MOUNT AFADJATO

Although Mount Afadjato is considered a popular tourist destination in Ghana, let me be direct with you: It’s not for everyone. The trail starts on a flat path, but quickly becomes a leg burner, what feels like a perpetual stair climber machine.

Most people will tell you it takes, on average, around 2 hours round trip, which I found to be accurate, but it was by no means easy. It’s important to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water and fuel.

Along the way you’ll come across convenient rest stops with scenic views, offering the perfect spot to recharge your legs and observe surrounding wildlife.

Did you know that Ghana is home to over 860 species for butterflies? Don’t worry, I didn’t before moving here, but spotting them is one of my favorite parts of spending time in the Volta Region!

Finally, after 45min-1 hour you’ll reach the peak and soak up the sweeping views across Lake Volta, neighboring Togo, and Liati Wote below. You may even spot Togolese coffee farmers wandering the foohills!

The Volta Region is where both Kawa Moka and Jamestown, two of Ghana’s top coffee companies, produce their beans.

For the most part, the trail is well preserved and shorts and t-shirt will suffice, but if you’re planning to go beyond the peak to nearby Mount Aduadu as I did, be sure to wear long pants.

Reaching this secondary mountain requires bushwhacking lesser-frequented pathways and it’s not uncommon to come across snakes and biting ants.

View of Mount Aduadu at sunrise, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato in Ghana

View of Mount Aduadu at sunrise, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

  1. Tagbo Falls: Located near Mount Afadjato, this tranquil waterfall is an excellent spot to cool off after your hike. I’d recommend climbing Afadja in the morning, and then continuing on (for an additional trail fee) to Tagbo Falls. It’s a flat, short, 40min hike and the trailheads start from the same location! It’s one on my favorite places to spend an afternoon swimming.

  2. Wli Waterfalls: Ghana’s highest and most famous waterfall is just a short drive away (20min) and offers another fantastic nature experience. Similar to Tagbo, this short trail is accessible to everyone and cooling off in the pool under the cascading water is a spiritual experience.

  3. Amedzofe Village: Amedzofe is Ghana’s highest-elevated settlement, originally established by the Germans during colonial times. The area offers cooler weather, more waterfalls, a better (and less frequented) canopy walk than Kakum National Park, and a small climb to the cross on top of Mt. Gemi. If coming from Ho, you’ll pass the turnoff for Amedzofe along the way (less than 1 hour from Liati Wote).

BEST TIME TO HIKE MOUNT AFADJATO

The Harmattan, or dry season, (November to April) is the best time for hiking, as the trails are less muddy. However, the dust being blown from the Sahara can significantly reduce visibility (although makes for beautiful, glowing sunrise).

The rainy season (May to October) brings lush greenery, making the scenery even more vibrant, but the steep trail can get slippery, so be sure to wear proper footwear and plan accordingly.

Finally, beat the heat and hike Mount Afadjato in the morning. If arranged ahead of time, your guide can meet you at the tourist office before sunrise and you can start on the trail before fighting the humidity.

TOP PACKING TIPS FOR YOUR VISIT TO MOUNT AFADJATO

  • Shoes are essential. Especially if planning to visit during rainy season. The trail is steep and can quickly become slippery, so it’s safest to have good treads.

  • Sunscreen and insect repellent. The trail itself traverses dense forest, and the peak is completely exposed so you’ll have to plan for all elements. After years of sweating off my sunscreen in the humidity, I’ve finally switched over to using a stick instead and it’s been a gamechanger!

  • A good camera. The top of Mount Afadjato provides some of the most stunning views in the area. If you’re into landscape photography, this is the place to come. Personally, my Canon 80d has been my best travel companion over the years.

  • A quality dry bag. Hiking in West Africa can be unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. I’ll always bring my Marchway dry bag to protect my valuables.

  • Don’t forget a quick-dry towel. Whether caught in the rains or planning to add on a visit to Tagbo Falls, a lightweight towel is the perfect item to add to your pack.

  • Water and Fuel. Regardless of season or time of day, you’ll work hard to get to the top of Mount Afadjato. Come prepared with plenty of water and snacks. There aren’t many options available in town, but you can always also your guide where to pick up supplies.

The view of the valley below from the peak in Mount Afadjato in Ghana

A view into the valley below, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato

Standing on top of Ghana’s tallest mountain at sunrise is a scene I won’t soon forget. Accra is great, but experiencing the breathtaking nature in the Volta Region is a must during any visit to Ghana, and Liati Wote is the perfect place to base.

Explore, rest, and walk away refreshed from your time in these stunning mountains.

Have you conquered Mount Afadjato or plan to visit? Share your experience in the comments below. As always, stay safe and happy travels!


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Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors Chris Toone

A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana

Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls…

Note: All information below is accurate as of March 2025.

If you haven’t caught on yet, I’m a big fan of the nature in Ghana and, after moving here, I was surprised to learn that the highest waterfall in West Africa is only a short day-trip away from my home.

Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls!

Mountains at sunrise in Ghana's Volta Region

Ghana’s Volta Region is full of lush mountains along the border with Togo

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Wli Falls, also called Agumatsa Falls, means "let me flow" in the Ewe language. The falls are fed by the Agumatsa River, which comes from neighboring Togo, and plummets 80 meters over the cliffs and into the pools below.

Although a popular tourist spot, the surrounding nature is still relatively untouched, making for a serene and peaceful day in the forest. You’ll run into colorful butterflies, plenty of birds, and even a colony fruit bats along the cliffs.

So, now that you’re hooked, when’s the best time to visit Wli Waterfalls? Well, there are two options that depend on what your priority is.

Dry season in Ghana, also known as Harmattan, runs from November to March. During this time the hiking weather is more pleasant, but the flow of the falls will be slower.

In contrast, rainy season occurs from April to October and makes the hike a bit more difficult with muddy trails, but you’ll get to experience the roar of the waterfalls at full force. Personally, I’d choose the rainy season, but it’s a great place to spend an afternoon either way.

Finally, it’s important to be aware that there are two trails: one to lower falls, and one to upper. The lower trail is classified as easy and good for all ages, while the upper falls trail is moderate to hard and requires a guide (these can be found at the main office).

Choose your adventure and plan accordingly!

Standing beneath West Africa's tallest waterfall in Ghana

Standing beneath Ghana’s Wli Waterfalls

HOW TO GET THERE

Wli Waterfalls is located near the town of Hohoe in Ghana's Volta Region and is most easily accessible by car from Accra. The good news is that, unlike other regions of Ghana, the roads in and out of the waterfall area are well maintained, making for a breathtakingly beautiful drive along the mountainous border with Togo.

To get here…

  • By Car: From Accra, it’s about a 4-5 hour drive (approximately 230 km). The route takes you through scenic landscapes and vibrant local villages. The biggest places to stop for petrol along the way are Atimpoku, Juapong, and Peki (if passing through Golokwati).

  • By Public Transport: Take a bus or shared taxi from Accra to Hohoe, then hire a taxi or moto to Wli, which is about 20min away.

Pro Tip: Share a taxi for the day or hire your own car. Local minibus transportation, also known as tro-tros, are notorious for accidents and breakdowns, especially when covering longer distances outside of Accra.

ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS

For a comprehensive list of admittance fees, including child and student discounts, visit the official Wli Waterfalls website.

  • Entry Fee (Lower Falls):

    • Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)

    • Non-Ghanaians: 60 GHS (USD 4.00)

  • Upper Falls Guided Hikes:

    • Ghanaians: 60-70 GHS (USD 4.00-4.50)

    • Non-Ghanaians: 80-90 GHS (USD 5.00-6.00)

Bring extra cash for souvenirs, snacks, or donations to support the local community. A small market is setup outside of the Tourism Office, making it easy to stock up on water and other supplies.

Pro Tip: Remember to tip your guide and get their contact information to recommend their services to others. Ghana’s economy functions off connections and who knows who, so this small gesture will go a long way.



WHAT TO EXPECT

The Lower Falls:

A gentle, 30-minute walk through Ghana’s lush nature on a well-marked trail leads to the lower falls. You’ll cross scenic wooden bridges and enjoy the vibrant sights and sounds of the rainforest. The cascading waters create a refreshing natural pool perfect for a swim.

You’ll hear the falls before you can see them and pay close attention to the towering cliffs as they come into view between the tree-tops. This is where the fruit bat colony resides and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch them flying off the rocks.

The Upper Falls:

For a more challenging adventure, embark on a steep 3-4 hour hike to the upper falls (guide required). The trek rewards you with stunning views and a quieter, less-crowded experience. There is both a short loop and a long loop, so be sure to discuss with the Tourism Office before setting out on your adventure.

Unlike Lower Wli Falls, the Upper requires hiking through grassy foothills and on narrow paths, so be sure to bring appropriate footwear and long pants. A moderate level of fitness is required for this trail.

Pro Tip: To avoid the crowds, plan your visit for a Sunday morning. This will ensure you beat the post-church rush and as they move in, you’ll be on your way back out!

A man swims in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana's Volta Region

Swimming in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana

NEARBY PLACES TO VISIT

Make your trip even more memorable by exploring more nature near Wli Waterfalls:

  1. Amedzofe Canopy Walk: A short 1 hour drive away, Amedzofe is the highest elevated settlement in Ghana and is where you’ll find a canopy walkway with the stunning Oti Falls as a backdrop.

  2. Mount Afadja (Afadjato): Ghana's tallest mountain offers a thrilling hiking experience and panoramic views in neighboring Liati Wote.

  3. Tagbo Falls: Another serene waterfall located near Mount Afadja, perfect for a peaceful escape and my favorite place to soak up Ghana’s nature.

WHAT TO BRING

  • Hiking Boots: Especially if hiking the Upper Falls or visiting in rainy season.

  • Swimsuit and Towel: Even if you don’t plan to swim, still bring it. The swimming pools act as a great way to cool off from Ghana’s heat and humidity! Pack lightly with a quick dry towel.

  • Waterproof Bag: Protect your valuables and be sure bring a waterproof bag, especially if there’s a risk of rain! I never hike in Ghana without my Marchway dry bag.

  • Water and Snacks: Wli Waterfalls is located within the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary, so although these items are easily accessible at the trailhead, please remember to pack out what you bring in!

  • A Good Book: What better way to recharge then lounging at the base of West Africa’s tallest waterfall and enjoying a good book. Ever since moving abroad and traveling more extensively, I never leave home without my Kindle Oasis.

A visit to Wli Waterfalls is more than just a trip—it’s an immersion into Ghana's natural beauty and cultural richness. Whether you’re splashing in the lower falls or hiking to the upper falls, you’ll leave refreshed and ready for more of all Ghana has to offer.

Have you visited Wli Waterfalls or plan to go? Share your thoughts in the comments below!


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Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors, travel Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors, travel Chris Toone

Tagbo Falls: A Hiker’s Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana

The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area….

Note: All information below is updated as of October 2024, but as Ghana’s economy fluctuates so to can costs of guides, accommodations, etc.

Ten years. That’s the amount of time I've been traveling in and out of Ghana without having visited the Volta Region and I’ll be the first to admit, I had no idea what I was missing. Verdant mountains rising high along the border with Togo, coffee farms, waterfalls, and endless hiking trails are all at your fingertips.

The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area.

Hiking to Tagbo Falls is a relatively easy trail with minimal elevation gain and few obstacles. The trail winds through the serene rainforest, cacao farms and, if you time it right, butterfly colonies fluttering along the path, all culminating at the stunning falls.

Take a swim, enjoy the afternoon in the forest, and make the most of this hidden gem.

Overlooking the Volta Region in Eastern Ghana at sunrise, on top of Mount Afadjato

View overlooking the mountains in the Volta Region of Ghana, from the top of Mount Afadjato

HOW TO GET TO TAGBO FALLS

Tagbo Falls is located in the village of Liati Wote, just at the base of Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s highest free-standing peak. To reach Liati Wote:

  1. From Accra: It’s about a 3-4 hour drive (200 km). The most common route is via the Hohoe road. You can rent a car or take a tro-tro from Accra’s Tudu Station to Hohoe, then catch a taxi or motorbike to Liati Wote.

  2. Through Golokwati: An alternative route is to take a tro-tro (local transportation) from Accra through Atimpoku and Juapong, towards Golokwati. Once there, jump on a local motorbike to take you the rest of the way (80 GHC, around USD 5.50) and enjoy the dirt roads as you wind towards the fresh air in the mountains.

The village of Liati Wote from above at sunset

Aerial view of Liate Wote, Ghana at sunset

HIKING TO TAGBO FALLS & WHAT TO EXPECT

Note: Remember, this is West Africa which means it’s important to keep an eye out for trail hazards, including snakes, ants, and even land crabs.

The hike to Tagbo Falls is around 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on your pace and how often you stop to soak in the surroundings. The trail itself is moderate in difficulty, with one or two steep sections that are completely manageable, unless it’s rainy season.

The trail starts at the same point as Mt. Afadjato, branching off to the right from the community park, and is marked the entire way.



Here’s a breakdown of what to plan for:

  • Lush Rainforest: The hike takes you through a rich tropical rainforest, where you’ll encounter towering trees, vines, and an array of birds and butterflies. Keep your eyes peeled for other wildlife – the last time I was on this trail we unexpectedly came across a land crab. It’s tempting to try the cacao pods, but remember this is someone’s livelihood and it’s best to leave the trail as you found it.

  • Streams and Bridges: As you approach the falls, you’ll cross a series of small streams, all structurally sound and easily navigable.

  • The Waterfall: Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by the spectacular 60-meter-high Tagbo Falls. The waterfall cascades into a cool, clear pool at the base, which is perfect for a refreshing swim after the hike. Surrounded by the dense forest, the falls creates one of the best secluded spaces in Ghana in relax and unwind. There’s a sign post stating “No Swimming” but, as the guides say, this is to deter people that don’t know how to swim from trying.

  • Guides and Entry Fees: Liati Wote is an unconventional tourist destination (yet extremely less visited than the description suggests). Guides are volunteer and required for all excursions. They make their money on tips provided.  That said, it’s also possible to pay the trail fee, include a tip, and go guide-free on some of the more common trails, including Tagbo Falls. This gives a bit more flexibility and allows you to enjoy the waterfall as long as you want.

    The entry fee to Mount Afadjato and Tagbo Falls is GHC 80 (USD 4.50) for both. This price drops if you visit just the waterfall. A common practice is to tip 40-50 cedis per guide.

Aerial view of Tagbo Falls in Volta Region of Ghana

The swimming hole at Tagbo Falls in Ghana makes for the perfect afternoon relaxation spot

PACKING TIPS & TRICKS FOR TAGBO FALLS

  • Hiking shoes: Essential for navigating the sometimes muddy and uneven trail, especially if it has recently rained.

  • Swimsuit and towel: For a refreshing dip in the cool waters of Tagbo Falls. My go-to quick dry towel is from Olympia Fit. Lightweight and reliable, get it here.

Note: There is nowhere to change by the waterfall other than in the forest. Washrooms and changing stalls can be found at the community park at the trailhead.

  • Water and snacks: Shops in Liati Wote are minimal, at best. It’s recommended to pack in everything you think you’ll need.

  • Camera: The scenery is stunning, and you’ll want to capture the moment!

  • Waterproof Bag: Be sure to protect your valuables from the streams and waterfall spray. It’s also useful as you never know when a storm will blow through the forest. Check out this one from Marchway — I never hike in Ghana without it and it keeps my camera gear dry!

BEST TIME TO VISIT TAGBO FALLS

The best time to visit Tagbo Falls is during the rainy season (from April to October) when the waterfall is at its fullest. However, the trail can be slippery during heavy rains, so be sure to wear sturdy hiking boots and plan accordingly. The dry season (November to March) offers easier hiking conditions, but the waterfall might be less dramatic.

A person wades to the base of Tagbo Falls in the Volta Region of Ghana

It’s hard to pass on the swimming hole at the base of Tagbo Falls

PLACES TO STAY NEAR TAGBO FALLS

While Liati Wote is a small village, there are several accommodation options nearby for travelers:

  1. Wli Waterfalls Lodge: Located in Wli, about a 30-minute drive from Liati Wote, this cozy lodge offers comfortable rooms, delicious local meals, and easy access to both Wli and Tagbo Falls. A room here can cost between USD 20 and 40.

  2. Afadjato Guesthouse: This simple guesthouse is located right in Liati Wote and is a great option if you want to stay close to the trailhead. It offers basic amenities and a friendly, local atmosphere.

  3. Tagbo Falls Lodge: This is by far and away my favorite place to stay in Ghana. The eco-lodge is located in Liati Wote, adjacent to the guesthouse, and provides unparalleled meals from their organic garden at affordable prices. The phone network is limited, making it the perfect place to disconnect and unwind. A room here costs between USD 20 and 35. Be sure to book ahead of time as this is a popular retreat due to its limited hosting capacity. Be sure to try Madam Philomina’s stove-top bread with garlic butter!

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

  • Mount Afadjato: If you’re feeling adventurous, why not tackle Mount Afadjato? It’s a short hike from Liati Wote, and reaching the summit offers stunning views over the Volta Region and even into neighboring Togo. There’s nothing better than a sunrise hike to the summit followed by an early morning swim at Tagbo on the way back to town.

  • Wli Falls: Just 30 minutes away, Wli Falls is another must-see waterfall. It’s the tallest in West Africa, and the hike to the lower falls is less challenging, making it easily accessible for all fitness levels. Additional options are available, including a more strenuous journey to the upper falls, skirting the border with Togo.

  • Amedzofe Canopy Walk: About an hour’s drive from Liati Wote leads to Amedzofe, Ghana’s highest elevated settlement. Here you’ll find untouched nature and one of the most picturesque canopy walkways, nestled in the mountains with Oti Falls flowing underneath. It’s definitely a spot worth checking out!

The light kisses the top of Tagbo Falls in Ghana

The sunlight makes a beautiful scene as it illuminates the top of the canopy above Tagbo Falls

It may sound extreme, but a visit to Tagbo Falls is the best way to experience one of Ghana’s most beautiful natural landscapes.

Whether you’re a solo traveler or exploring with friends, this adventure offers the perfect combination of challenge, reward, and tranquility.

So lace up your boots, pack your bags, and get ready for a day full of nature in the heart of the Volta Region!

In the meantime, stay safe & happy travels!

Have you hiked Tagbo Falls before? Share your experience in the comments!


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Africa, outdoors, hiking, guide, travel, Ghana Chris Toone Africa, outdoors, hiking, guide, travel, Ghana Chris Toone

Discover Ghana’s Hidden Gem: Amedzofe

Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer...

Please note: All info below is accurate as of September 2024


Ghana is home to countless hidden gems, and one of its best-kept secrets is the town of Amedzofe. Nestled in the picturesque mountains of the Volta Region, this serene and welcoming town offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, history, and adventure. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path destination, Amedzofe has something special to offer.

Sounds like paradise, right? Here’s everything you need to know before a visit.

Canopy Walkway - Amedzofe, Ghana

HISTORY OF AMEDZOFE

Amedzofe, the highest habitable settlement in Ghana, sits about 750 meters above sea level. Historically, it served as a strategic location for the Ewe people, providing a natural defense against attacks. During colonial times, German missionaries arrived and their influence is still visible today in the architecture, such as the iconic German-built Presbyterian Church. The area’s rich history is intertwined with its cultural heritage, making it a fascinating destination for those interested in learning about Ghana’s past.

HOW TO GET TO AMEDZOFE

Amedzofe is approximately 2.5 to 3 hours by road from Accra, the capital of Ghana. Depending on traffic, it’s safer to plan for 4-5 hours of travel!

The best route is via the Accra-Ho road, which offers a smooth drive until you reach the scenic, winding roads that ascend the Amedzofe hills. Public transport is available, but if you're looking for convenience, renting a car or booking a private ride might be the best option.

The final stretch of the journey will treat you to breathtaking views of lush valleys, mountains, and distant villages.

If driving yourself, be aware that once entering Amedzofe the roads deteriorate. Mount Gemi is accessible, but many people choose to park elsewhere and take motobikes to the start of the canopy walkway, especially in rainy season.

 

TOP THINGS TO DO IN AMEDZOFE

  1. Mount Gemi: One of the town’s main attractions is Mount Gemi, a prominent peak that offers panoramic views of the Volta Region. Atop the mountain stands a stone cross, erected by German missionaries in the early 20th century. A short hike to the summit (~20 minutes) will reward you with sweeping vistas of the surrounding landscape, including Lake Volta on a clear day.

    At the top, you’ll find a cross that overlooks the village below. This is a sacred place to the community and it’s not uncommon to see people making pilgrimages to pray.

    Cost: 55 GHS (USD 3.50) for foreigners

    Note: Although Mt. Gemi is a hike, minimal fitness levels are required. Multiple routes of varying inclines exist, making this attraction suitable for everyone.

  2. Amedzofe Canopy Walk: Amedzofe is home to a beautiful, lesser-known waterfall that cascades gently into a natural pool. The short but steep hike to the waterfall is an adventure in itself, as you pass through verdant forests and enjoy the peaceful sounds of nature. Don’t forget your camera and swimsuit—this spot is perfect for capturing the tranquil beauty of Ghana’s natural wonders and bathing below the falls.

    If it’s between Kakum Canopy and Amedzofe, choose here. It’s far less trafficked and, as a result, the serenity of the surroundings are preserved.

    Cost: 75 GHS (USD 4.75) for foreigners. Discounts applied for students.

    Hours: The entrance building opens at 8am, 7 days a week. Get there early to have the entire place to yourself.

    Note: There is a required level of fitness for this as the path to the canopy walk leads to a steep descent of 259 steps.

  3. Explore Local Culture: Amedzofe is a culturally rich town, and visitors have the opportunity to interact with the friendly locals, learn about Ewe traditions, and explore the historical sites dotted around the town. The Presbyterian Church and old missionary quarters are great places to start, giving you a glimpse into the town's colonial past.

  4. Birdwatching and Nature Walks: The area around Amedzofe is a haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers. The lush environment is home to a variety of bird species, including the colorful and rare African grey parrot. Guided nature walks can be arranged for visitors interested in learning more about the local flora and fauna through the local tourism board.

Amedzofe Canopy Walkway in Ghana, including a waterfall.

Canopy Walkway and Oti Falls, Amedzofe

ACCOMMODATION: WHERE TO STAY IN AMEDZOFE

Accommodation is limited but affordable, with local guesthouses offering rooms for as little as GHS 100 (USD 8) per night. B

asic meals at local eateries will cost around GHS 15 to GHS 30 ($1 to USD 3), with more upscale options available in nearby towns like Ho.

Additionally, there are camping options, including equipment rentals, at Mt. Gemi.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

Less than an hour from Amedzofe lies the village of Liati Wote. This quiet spot near the border with Togo is another tranquil gateway into nature. Here you can climb Ghana’s tallest free-standing mountain (Mount Afadjato), hike to and swim at Tagbo Falls, or enjoy an afternoon eating some of the best food in the country at Tagbo Falls Lodge as you relax in the courtyard. Another 45 minutes north leads to Wli, the home of West Africa’s tallest waterfall.

Other attractions:

Amedzofe from above. Ghana's highest elevated settlement.

Amedzofe, Ghana from above

Whether you’re hiking to the top of Mount Gemi, marveling at the cascading waterfall, or immersing yourself in local culture, Amedzofe is sure to leave a lasting impression. For those yearning for adventure and serenity, this charming town in the Volta Region promises to be a rewarding journey.

Pack your bags, hit the road, and leave the bustling streets of Accra, and the tourist trail, behind—Amedzofe awaits!


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Africa, guide, hiking, outdoors, travel Chris Toone Africa, guide, hiking, outdoors, travel Chris Toone

Hiking Mount Krobo, Ghana: Everything You Need to Know

Within a week of regularly driving the Tema-Akosombo road, it was clear that one mountain towered above the rest: cue Mount Krobo. After weeks of trying to arrange a hike the plans finally panned out. Here’s everything you need to know for a great half-day adventure…

Please note: all info below is accurate as of January 2023


Having been to Ghana on and off for the past decade, my trips were isolated to the same stretch of road between Accra, Kumasi, and Berekum leaving the Eastern Region of the country an untouched landscape full of adventure.

Within a week of regularly driving the Tema-Akosombo road, it was clear that one mountain towered above the rest: cue Mount Krobo. After weeks of trying to arrange a hike the plans finally panned out.

Here’s everything you need to know for a great half-day adventure!

Hiking the base of Mount Krobo, Ghana

Hiking the base of Mount Krobo, Ghana

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MOUNT KROBO

Dating back to the 16th century, the Dangme people of East Africa up and left their settlements, deciding to migrate towards present day Ghana. Once they reached West Africa, the group made friends with other ethnicities as they passed through, including the Ewe people.

As the trek progressed, a split from the Ewe became necessary and it was at this point in their journey that the Krobo refer to as Lorlorvor, meaning “love has ended.”

The Krobo people crossed the Volta River in continued search of a new settlement when they found themselves surrounded by the Akan and Guan ethnic groups. Fear of these perceived threats forced them to climb an isolated mountain on the plains near the river, known today as Mount Krobo.

Having experienced first-hand the difficult climb as a natural safety measure they began to establish their new settlement, quickly erecting multi-story homes and irrigation systems.

As the Krobo population continued to expand, the colonial government found it increasingly difficult to monitor and control the settlement. As a result in 1892, the British rulers gave the community 3 days to leave the mountain. The people fled with as much as they could carry and what was left behind was destroyed.

To this day, the Krobos continue to organize a pilgrimage to pay homage to their ancestors.

GETTING THERE

Not the most conveniently located attraction in Ghana, the easiest way to access Mount Krobo is by taking a tro-tro or taxi to Akuse Junction. From here, the unmarked trailhead is 3.1km south on the left side of the road, just past Kings and Queens Teaching Hospital.

Although possible to walk from the intersection, it’s not advisable given the volume of speeding traffic along the Tema-Akosombo Road.

If all else fails, the trailhead is pinned below, and the path can be seen from Google satellite images.

 

WHEN TO GO

For sweeping views across the plains, it’s best to avoid the Harmattan season which runs from November to March as the horizon is often laden with dust that obscures the landscape.

HELPFUL INFO

Some reports indicate a 7.50 GHC entrance fee to a local farmer, but we did not encounter anyone. It’s also vital to bring plenty of water and sunscreen as the mountain is exposed most of the ascent.

Other things to consider:

  • A reliable and comfy day pack

  • Pack snacks or buy fruit from the stands at Akuse Junction

  • Wear shoes with plenty of tread

  • Wear long, lightweight pants

  • Bring bug spray

  • Plan for 4 hours, round trip

  • Walking poles

  • Start early in the morning to avoid the hottest part of the day

A view from Mt. Krobo, Ghana

A glimpse of the landscape from the top of Mount Krobo, Ghana

WHAT TO EXPECT

Once turning off the Tema-Akosombo Road, the hike starts flat as the dirt path winds through the brush and approaches the eastern face of the mountain. The tree-lined trail concludes at a clearing with a shelter, washrooms, and a beautiful baobab tree.

From here, the trek begins to quickly ascend through the trees. Remember to pace yourself and stay hydrated – it’s not a race to the top. Take advantage of the many lookouts along the way for some well-deserved rest.

On this particular day, the brush had just been burned along the trail, so the breaks were a welcomed reprieve from breathing in the Harmattan dust and ashy air.

Eventually, the path opens up to ruins from the Krobo civilization that once dwelled on the mountain. We wandered around the old foundations of houses while uncovering clay pots that had slowly been reclaimed by the Earth.

Ruins from the Krobo People, Ghana

Ruins of the Krobo settlement

At this point, it is not much farther to the first vista that looks west over the plains. Once you have had a chance to take in the sweeping landscape, continue walking north along the top of the mountain to reach the trail's end, marked by a metal cross.

Relax, refuel, and enjoy the views.

The easiest and safest thing to do is treat Mount Krobo as an out-and-back trail. There is no loop however a local Ghanaian we met at the peak insisted we try the “shortcut” down. This included descending a solid rock wall into a ravine and galloping down the western face of the mountain that we had previously labeled “too steep to climb” as we reached the trailhead from the main road that morning.

Truth be told we would never have found this path without a guide, so best to descend back through the Krobo ruins.

IMPORTANT NOTES

Here’s what I wish we would’ve done differently:

  • Pin the location of the trailhead and have the taxi stop at the mark. We got out too early at Akuse Junction and had to walk the 3.1km down the Tema-Akosombo road

  • Bring hiking shoes. I used runners and immediately regretted my decision as we started the steep descent through the ashy brush

  • Wear long pants. The trail is clearly defined, but that doesn’t mean brush doesn’t get in the way. I left the mountain with scrapes and cuts up and down my legs. Nothing serious, but next time I’ll pack pants

  • Get the taxi driver’s phone number to call on the descent and meet at the end of the trailhead to avoid walking back to Akuse Junction for a ride

Views from the top of Mount Krobo, Ghana

Views from the top of Mount Krobo, Ghana

All in all, it made for a great morning adventure. Be sure to do a little digging on the Krobo people before the hike. Knowing the history of the mountain made the experience meaningful beyond the beautiful fauna and striking landscape.

Have you hiked Mount Krobo before or know of other adventures you want me to experience in Ghana? Leave a comment below and let’s keep exploring!

As always, thanks for reading & happy travels.


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Central America, guide, hiking, outdoors, Panama, travel Chris Toone Central America, guide, hiking, outdoors, Panama, travel Chris Toone

The Ultimate 3-day Itinerary in Boquete, Panama: Experience cloud forests, coffee, and more!

From ominous cloud forests and lush jungle vegetation to the world’s best coffee bean, Boquete is a magical place nestled within the Chiriquí Highlands of Panama that an adventurer’s dream. Here’s a 3-day itinerary to help you plan your next trip!

Boquete, Panama | Toone's Travels

First and foremost, let me take a moment to answer the most important question: is three days enough in Boquete?

No.

There’s such a high volume of places to explore and things to experience that it’d be easy to spend weeks, if not a month here. This guide will at least help you to scratch the surface and be well on your way to creating the perfect Boquete, Panama itinerary that works for you!

BACKGROUND

Boquete is a small town located in western Panama about 40 miles from the border with Costa Rica. It’s a place popular amongst travelers and ex-pats alike for the abundance of wildlife, cloud forests, and globally acclaimed coffee beans.

Situated along the Caldera River and surrounded by the Chiquiri highlands, the area offers incredible hiking and outdoor adventures for any age including prime viewing of the elusive Quetzal, Panama’s most popular bird. Visitors will find a unique concoction of both Panamanian culture and cuisine mixed with the ex-pat influence from around the world.

If hiking isn’t your thing, no problem! Visit a coffee farm to learn how Boquete cultivates the world’s most expensive bean, soak up the cloud forest views by driving the Bajo Mano Loop, and even take a chocolate-making class in town. Either way, a trip to Boquete is well worth it!

GETTING THERE

There are three main ways to get to Boquete: car, bus, and plane. Let’s break it down:

  1.  Renting a car and driving from Panama City to Boquete will take around 6.5 hours via Route 1. It’s a scenic drive along the highway and allows travelers to take their time, stopping in towns like Santiago and David as they go.

    This was the mode of transportation I opted for and although renting a car in Panama is notoriously confusing, it was liberating to have the freedom on the road. Having a car while in Boquete also made the more remote hiking trails more accessible.

  2.  The most cost-effective option is via bus. There are direct routes from Panama City to David, in which you’ll then need to transfer to further reach Boquete. Generally speaking, this is what you can expect:

    1. Panama City to David – around 8 hours and $15.75

    2. David to Boquete – 1 hour and $1.75

  3. The quickest and also the most expensive way is via flight from Panama City to David before renting a car or hopping on the local bus. The flight time is around 40min and can cost between $85-$150.


To read more about renting a car in Panama, check out this post!


WHERE TO STAY

Thanks to the ex-pat community, there is a wide range of accommodation available from hostels to bed and breakfasts or fully furnished Airbnb rentals!

Sub - $50

Hostel Mamallena

Hostal Boquete

Spanish by the River

Hostal Suenos de Rio

$50-$100

Villa Alejandro Boquete

Casa Alegria

Boquete Garden Inn

Hotel Ladera

$100+

Hotel Finca Lerida Coffee Estate

The Haven

The Inn at Palo Alto

During this three-day trip, I opted for an Airbnb at Villa Cascada Boquete and could not have had a better experience! The living space is detached from the main home for complete privacy, including entry, and comes complete with a secluded and relaxing koi pond off the back patio. The location is an easy walk to downtown Boquete and made for the perfect home base.

3-DAY ITINERARY

There are a few quick notes to make regarding the itinerary below.

To start with, I tend to travel as most cost-effectively as possible. Often I opt to save money on fancy meals and put those funds towards more experiences. Also, anyone will tell you that I plan very little and explore a lot. Sometimes it works out and sometimes it leaves me wanting more, but it's a risk I'm willing to take.

With these points in mind, let’s dive into a basic, three-day itinerary in Boquete, Panama!

DAY 1:

Breakfast: I opted for a quick and easy breakfast at the Airbnb before packing snacks and heading to the cloud forest for a morning hike.

Two of the best grocery stores to stock up on easy meals and snacks are Super Barú Boquete and Romero Boquete.

Pipeline Trail: The Boquete area has such an abundance of trails to explore that it can be quite overwhelming to choose one to do, especially if on a limited time. This was my first experience hiking in the jungle, so I chose the Pipeline Trail as it’s well known, clearly marked, and relatively flat. Due to the popularity, it’s best to wake up early and start the trek first thing in the morning.

This hike takes visitors through the lush jungle along a narrow path and is commonly known as one of the best places in town to view the Quetzal bird. Along the trail lies a massive 1,000-year-old tree, shooting straight up into the jungle canopy.

The gem of this 3.8-mile loop hike is the cascading waterfall that provides the necessary mist to cool off and feel energized for the trek back to the trailhead.

Note: The locals regulate the trail and there is a 5 USD entrance fee per person, as well as a required sign-in/out. As you walk up from the “Welcome” sign at the road, a small hut will be on the left before you enter the jungle.

Pipeline Trail, Boquete | Toone's Travels
PT2.jpg
Pipeline Trail, Boquete | Toone's Travels

Lunch: After being energized by the Pipeline Trail, I opted for a quick lunch/rest back at the Airbnb before setting out on another adventure.

Choclón Waterfall: This was an adventure for the ages. As I was researching places to visit in Boquete, I came across a picture of these stunning twin waterfalls and knew I needed to visit. The only problem was there was no location listed. 

Armed with loose GPS coordinates and blurry Google Satellite images of the area, I set off to see if I could make it happen.

After hours of trying, re-trying, almost giving up, and then trying yet again (you can read more about the full adventure by clicking here), I finally found the correct path that led to the magical Choclón Waterfall.

The path itself was overgrown, narrow, and isolated, but the short hike down to the riverbed beyond worth the effort!

Choclon Waterfall, Boquete | Toone's Travels

Dinner: After expending so much energy on the hiking trails throughout the day, it was a stay-in and rest type of night for dinner, only stepping foot outside to reward myself with a delicious dessert from Gelateria La Ghiotta, a frequent stop on my trip.

DAY 2:

Breakfast: Still feeling the effects of a day full of exploring in the sun and humidity, day 2 was more about exploring the downtown Boquete area. After several local recommendations, I settled on a place called Olga’s for breakfast.

Situated in her own home and greeting each customer with a hug and a kiss on the cheek, Olga’s food was by far the best I experienced on my Panamanian adventure!

Huevos Rancheros, Boquete | Toone's Travels

Daytime Adventures:

 La Viuda del Cafe

The Boquete area is well known around the world for cultivating the Geisha coffee bean. With a gentle wildflower aroma, a bag of these can go for $600 and just a cup can cost $64 in Dubai!

Luckily by being at the source it’s much more affordable. La Viuda del Café is a boutique coffee shop that translates literally as “the coffee window.” Here a cup of Geisha coffee costs only $4! 

Is the delectable bean that good? Yes, it is, my friends.

Geisha Coffee | Toone's Travels

Pastelería Alemana

Located south of downtown Boquete and along Route 41 lays Pastelería Alemana. 

A small German pastry shop, the outdoor seating area makes for an odd yet perfect experience, eating a scrumptious apple strudel while gazing off at the remote jungle in the distance.

Faro Panama

I had passed this attraction on the drive into town from Panama City and was completely taken aback. How does a giant lighthouse make its way to such a remote part of the country? 

Long story short, this family fun center opened just before my arrival in Boquete and I was the only car in the parking lot. It was an ominous feeling to see an empty complex and have the staff so surprised to see a visitor, but the top of the lighthouse provided unparalleled 360-degree views of the area, including Volcan Barú.

The cost was 4.25 USD per person.

Volcan Barú | Toone's Travels

Café Ruiz

To fuel up for an evening hike, a quick stop at the Café Ruiz coffee farm was necessary. Nestled out of town and amongst lush flora, the tasting flight of various local coffees was a needed afternoon jolt.

Café Ruiz also offers some of the shorter/cheaper coffee tours in town. I tried to sign up for one but unfortunately, it was full. Lesson learned; book in advance!


Ready to learn more about Panama’s coffee? Check out this tour from Get Your Guide!



La Piedra de Lino

Translated as “the rock of Lino,” this short yet steep hike offers some of the most spectacular views over Boquete and the surrounding cloud forests. 

Climbing 1000+ feet in just over 1.5 miles, La Piedra de Lino is a leg burner and not for the faint of heart, but the payout at the top is worth it.

The path can get slippery, especially after a good rainfall. Be sure to wear shoes with good tread and move slowly.

La Piedra de Lino, Boquete | Toone's Travels
La Piedra de Lino, Boquete | Toone's Travels

Dinner: Sabrasón

A cafeteria-style buffet full of Panamanian cuisine and incredibly cheap, Sabrasón made for a quick and easy meal after an exhausting and fulfilling hike up La Piedra de Lino.

Dessert: Gelateria La Ghiotta

DAY 3:

Breakfast: Olga’s… again. Enjoying homemade food on the back patio and surrounded by local flora was the perfect way to start the day.

Tuesday Market: If you’re looking to avoid the ex-pat influence, then the Tuesday Market isn’t for you. With that being said, it’s a unique experience in the area as the community congregates to sell local foods and gifts.

Shopping: Finding the right knick-knacks is far cheaper in Boquete than back in Panama City, so before I drove out of town I spent some time wandering up and down the main road while browsing the local selection of blankets, backpacks, and more.

 Boquete was a quick stop on a whirlwind trip around Panama and I wish I had been able to spend more time here, but it’s certainly a place that’s high on my list to return to and learn more about.

Questions? Have other ideas for a trip to Boquete? Leave them in the comments below and be sure to check out my other posts about Panama!

Stay safe & happy travels!


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