travel, Central America, guide, Panama Chris Toone travel, Central America, guide, Panama Chris Toone

48 Hours in Panama City: Where to stay and what to do!

So you’ve booked your tickets to Panama City and decided to opt for short stopover before continuing on elsewhere. No worries, that’s what I did, too. It was a bit overwhelming at first to plan as much as possible in such a limited amount of time, but this guide is here to help you collect your thoughts and point you in the right direction!

*Please note: all information below, including prices, is reflective of the time of writing (2019). Feel free to reach out with questions and I’ll happily help however I can.


So you’ve booked your tickets to Panama City and decided to opt for a short stopover before continuing on elsewhere.

No worries, that’s what most people do and my girlfriend and I were no different on this last trip.

It was a bit overwhelming at first. The city is HUGE and a lot of our stress was stemming from the inevitable decision of where to base out of in order to see and do the most. But have no fear - the 48 hours guide is here!

WHERE TO STAY

The simple answer: Casco Viejo.

There’s a lot of information on the internet about neighborhoods to avoid in Panama City, and if you look on a map, Casco Viejo appears to be flanked by many, most notably El Chorillo and Calidonia. Many people prefer to stay in the “more secure” financial district, and that’s perfectly fine.

We chose Casco Viejo for a few reasons. To start with, it was easy to get around. There were only a couple of things that we wanted to do across town (Panama Viejo and Miraflores Locks), and those were just a short 20 minute Uber ride away. Everything else was in close proximity to the old town and our average Uber fare was $2.

The second reason was that it gave us the historical experience. Panama City is full of high rises, but by staying in Casco Viejo we surrounded ourselves with the rich history of how the city came to be.

Some people warn that the area is far too touristy. That may be the case during the day, but at night it comes alive as the neighborhood of choice for Panamanians to grab dinner and drinks.

Now that you know where to stay, here are the top 7 things to cram into your 48 hours in Panama City!

PANAMA VIEJO

On the opposite side of town from Casco Viejo, you will find Panama Viejo, the ORIGINAL Panama City.

Yes, Casco Viejo is known as the “Old Town,” however it wasn’t established until Captain Henry Morgan ransacked and pillaged the early settlement in 1671, forcing the citizens to abandon and re-build in modern-day Casco Viejo.

Panama Viejo itself was established in 1519 and is the oldest European settlement on the Pacific Coast of the Americas.

It is now a UNESCO World Heritage site and costs just $15 (as of 2019) to get up close and personal with the ruins. Pro tip: It’s a short walk from the ticketing booth to the ruins, but shuttles offer visitors free rides for those interested.

The ruins of Panama Viejo in Panama City, Panama

The ruins of Panama Viejo in Panama City, Panama

CERRO ANCON

Cerro Ancon is a short hike within the city limits that provides sweeping views over the city, Casco Viejo, and the Panama Canal.

Just a 10 minute Uber ride from the hotel in Casco Viejo, this short hike up a paved road acts a retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city below.

The climb itself only took around 30 minutes. There was a bit of an incline that probably felt a lot harder than it was because of the humidity, but the lush flora and fauna was more than worth the effort. Bring water! 

Pro tip: Do the hike in the morning or evening and when you reach the first tower station, go RIGHT. You will have a perfect view of the Miraflores Locks, Bridge of the Americas, and the canal as a whole! 

Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon in Panama City, Panama

Bridge of the Americas as seen from the top of Cerro Ancon in Panama City, Panama

PANAMA CITY SEASIDE WALK

If you want to go on a people-watching adventure, this is the place to do it. Simply by walking and observing you’ll be able to experience daily life as joggers fly by and families spend time together under the shade of the palm trees.

Need to cool off? Grab a shaved ice and get ready for that oh-so-sweet relief from the heat for just one dollar! Try the passion fruit. You won’t regret it. Pro Tip: This is an ideal spot for night photography of the downtown skyline!

View of downtown Panama City, Panama at night

View of downtown Panama City, Panama at night

MIRAFLORES LOCKS

I know there’s already A TON of information out there about visiting Miraflores, so I’ll keep this brief… make sure you go.

A short 20 minute Uber ride outside of the city and you’ll be dropped at the doors of the Miraflores Visitors Center. Inside you'll find a multi-story museum featuring the fascinating history and expansion of the canal, as well as the observation deck to watch ships pass through.  

We paid $15 for an adult entrance fee. Non-resident children will cost $10 (ages 6-12). It’s worth spending a few hours learning why Panama City is BOOMING! Pro Tip: Plan your visit according to the ship schedule to ensure that you catch one passing through the locks.

A ship passes through the Miraflores Locks in Panama City, Panama

A ship passes through the Miraflores Locks in Panama City, Panama

MERCADO DE MARISCOS

One of my favorite pastimes is wandering the local fish market of a coastal city in a foreign country. The myriad of noise and shouting, the chaos that is so intimidating and yet flows so perfectly, and the joy of finding a creature from the ocean that I've never seen is always a highlight.

The wholesale portion of the Mercado de Mariscos is open from 6:00am-5:00pm each day in the main building, but the outside restaurants are open until 10pm and make for an easy dinner (and cheap) dinner of fresh ceviche and a cold beer! A small cup will cost you $2-$4, depending on the seafood of choice. Pro Tip: Wake up early, walk along the Cinta Costera, and watch the fishing boats unload their catch of the day while the sun rises over the city.

EAT AT KWANG CHOW

I am a self-proclaimed dumpling-obsessed individual. As I continue traversing the globe to places like Japan and South Korea, I feel an unexplainable pull towards their food. As I was preparing for this trip and watching an episode of Andrew Zimmern’s Bizarre Foods, I couldn’t help but feel that same pull to Kwang Chow’s.

With the completion of the canal construction in 1914, the world flocked to Panama City and as a result, the first ever Chinatown in the Western Hemisphere was established. Kwang Chow is the last remaining relic from that time. There are no more Asian markets, no trinkets to buy, or even people of Chinese descent wandering the streets.

Despite the changes, Kwang Chow has remained the same. The moment you step inside you are transported back in time to the 1900s and everything stands still. What better way to enjoy a delicious lunch?

CASCO VIEJO

What if I told you there was a neighborhood full of colorful colonial-style buildings and that Panama City isn’t all about finances and high-rises? Interested? Then be sure to explore Casco Viejo!

Wander the streets, discover colonial-era churches and ruins, hop in and out of the picture-perfect cafes, stroll along the city wall where you can shop for souvenirs, and more. Time passes slowly here... be sure to soak it all up!

Wandering the streets of Casco Viejo in Panama City, Panama

Wandering the streets of Casco Viejo in Panama City, Panama

BONUS: AMADOR CAUSEWAY

A local favorite, the Amador Causeway connects four small islands and flanks the entrance to the Panama Canal in the Pacific Ocean. Rent bikes, visit the BioMuseum, or simply walk and enjoy the views of passing cargo ships and the city skyline. Pro Tip: Go at the right time of day to watch the sunset and stand in amazement as the city’s lights come alive!

 

We had a great time in Panama City and whatever you choose to do, I’m sure you will too! Need more information or have questions? Don’t hesitate to reach out in the comments below.

Stay safe & happy travels, my friends!


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travel, Panama, Central America, guide Chris Toone travel, Panama, Central America, guide Chris Toone

Renting a Car in Panama: Here's what I wish I had known ahead of time

I can already see the eyes rolling around your head. “I know how to use Google, I know how to drive, I’m confident I can rent a car.” Well, that’s probably all true. Who am I to judge your driving? But renting a car in Panama isn’t as cut and dry as in other countries…

*Please note: all information below, including prices, is reflective of the time of writing (2019). Feel free to reach out with questions and I’ll happily help however I can.

I can already see the eyes rolling around your head. “I know how to use Google, I know how to drive, I’m confident I can rent a car.” Who am I to judge your driving? But renting a car in Panama isn’t as cut and dry as in other countries. If you look online like we did, it might freak you out (or in our case, question our entire plan). The reality is it can be done and done well for that matter, but let’s back-up for just one second.

Heather and I have this tendency to book plane tickets mere days in advance and just wing it. Panama was no different. Three days out we found cheap flights and decided to send it down to Central America. We knew that we wanted to make it to Boquete and keep our budget tight. We decided that flying from Panama City to David and Bocos del Toro would hit our bank accounts a little too hard, so we decided to rent a car. We thought we had it all figured out, and then we started to read this thread on Trip Advisor. The more we read, the more doubtful we became. The stress and anxiety began to mount, but like any true adventure, we decided that rolling the dice was the best thing to do.

TRIP ADVISOR SUMMARY

Before you spend hours going down the proverbial rabbit hole on the internet as we did, let me sum up the Trip Advisor thread for you.

  • Renting a car from Tocumen International Airport is a disaster, especially from Hertz. You’re better off renting from National Car Rentals in the city.

  • The “Tocumen Banditos” are alive and well and prey on customers like a lion in the wild. They will find fake damage, knowing you have a flight to catch so you won’t put up much of a fight.

  • Accept the damage and contact Hertz from home, you say? Not a chance. You’ll get no help because Hertz USA has no control over Hertz Panama.

  • Have insurance coverage from your credit card? Not good enough. You’ll be forced into buying comprehensive.

  • People have shown up to rental car counters off of the estimate they receive online and are suddenly unable to afford the new price, ultimately walking away in tears (this one gave us the feels).

Crazy, right? If it were all true, it would be. But here’s how our experience went:

Panama City from Cerra Ancon

View of Panama City, Panama

BEFORE WE ARRIVED

Generally speaking, we tend to search for any opportunity to save a dime. Many times that strategy includes using credit card miles. Even if you don’t have any to spare, a quick internet search will show car deals starting at “just $5/day.” It might seem too good to be true at an initial glance, and that’s because it is.

Despite our instincts, we opted to use miles and booked with Hertz at Tocumen International Airport. We had no problems with the reservation process, but at the same time, there were no notifications that this was not the actual price. 

AT TOCUMEN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

As we left the hotel that morning, we had prepared ourselves for battle going as far as calling the credit card company to verify their coverage. We were ready for anything that the rental agent could possibly throw at us. There was only one problem… it was as easy and smooth as possible.

Here are some things to keep in mind:

LIABILITY INSURANCE IS MANDATORY IN PANAMA

It’s a national law that all rental cars must carry a liability policy of $20,000. After doing our research, we expected this to be the case and at around $22/day for 7 days, it was consistent with everything we had read. This is where most people get tripped up. Liability coverage isn’t mandatory in many countries, so it is not included in the rates you find on Kayak, Priceline, etc. It’s completely understandable why people get upset… if you expect to pay $75 total and get charged $200+ when you show up, that’s a significant change (especially if you’re trying to use points to cover the cost). Pro tip: Do your research ahead of time. Ask around and know what to expect.

HERTZ ACCEPTED OUR CREDIT CARD COLLISION COVERAGE

If you read through the thread, you’ll see many stories about companies forcing customers into full policies, telling them that their credit card coverage isn’t valid. I’m not discounting those people, however our experience was much different. We were offered full collision, partial collision, or no collision in addition to the required liability policy. We chose “no collision” and they accepted our credit card coverage, no problem. Pro tip: It’s a good idea to talk to your card company ahead of time and print out a copy of the policy.

BE “THAT GUY”

We’re not normally the self-proclaimed Sherlock Holmes kind of people, searching the car for every little scratch with a flashlight, but in Panama we were. The Hertz agent had a form marked up already with the damage they identified and gave us an opportunity to go over it ourselves (joke was on him). We took full advantage, trying to minimize the risk for false damage claims when we dropped the car back off. By the end of our inspection, the form looked more like a paint-within-the-lines picture. Front, rear, roof… we covered it all and they accepted it, no questions asked. Every. Little. Thing. There were A LOT of things.

DRIVING IN PANAMA

Traveling by car is by far our preferred method of transportation, and Panama was no different. We experienced roads that curved their way through the cloud forest, empanada stands at the top of mountain passes, and so much more. After all, the journey is the adventure! Driving is simple, easy and fun. Panama City is chaotic, but nothing more than you’d expect from an extensive urban area. Traffic can get backed up though, so plan ahead! Pro tip: Download the Waze app. The directions are accurate, easy to follow, and Panamanians are religious about updating police locations so you can be sure to avoid the speed traps. We drove from Panama City, up to Boquete, over to Bocos del Toro, and back down to Tocumen with no problems at all.

Cloud Forest - Panama

Driving from Panama City to Boquete through the mountains

RETURNING THE CAR

Beyond the fear that our credit card insurance would be rejected, this part was our second biggest concern after reading all of the information on Trip Advisor. As we walked back into the arrivals hall to return the keys, we again braced for a battle. In reality, it was the easiest part of it all. We were told that tolls would be billed electronically (all tolls in Panama are electronic, so every car is equipped with the proper technology to handle that), and that a receipt would be emailed. After a couple of weeks of holding our breath, the final bill came with no signs of “fake damage.”



PRICE BREAKDOWN

  • Online booking - $85 for 7 days (credit card points used)

  • Actual cost - $345 for 7 days with 2 drivers and mandatory liability insurance

  • Tolls - $11.95 (Tolls are only present on roads surrounding Panama City)

All in all if you do your research, know what to expect, and make an effort to really evaluate the car before you drive it off the lot then you should have no problems! Keep in mind that like any other country, things are constantly changing in Panama and although our experience was smooth and stress free, yours might different!

It’s my goal to provide you all with information to help you get out and see the world. Did this accomplish that? Let me know in the comments below and I hope you enjoy your Panamanian adventure!


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