Staying at the Maranatha Beach Camp: Where the river meets the sea
Please note: This post is updated as of December 2023
Have you ever found yourself scrolling through Instagram and stumbling upon someone else’s picture-perfect beach vacation, only to look up from your phone and realize it’s time to get back to work?
Me, too.
Luckily for all of the budget travelers in the world, there’s a magical place just outside of Accra, Ghana where the Volta River flows out to the Gulf of Guinea and palm trees provide shade to the tiny thatched huts that dot the coastline.
Welcome to the Maranatha Beach Camp where, quite literally, the river meets the sea.
THE HISTORY
Maranatha Beach Camp was founded by Winfred Dzinado back in 2005 and started as a one-man operation with only a couple of huts on a strip of sand in Ada-Foah, Ghana. Since that time, it has expanded to 30 available bungalows.
His motivation stemmed from a perceived need for the education of children within his community. Families had been neglecting to send their children to school because of the distance or required financial commitment, both common problems throughout the country.
As Winfred continued his business, he began using the profits to fund affordable and convenient education, starting with the construction of one small classroom and thus establishing the Maranatha Community School.
Today, the school now holds classes for children from 4-15 years old and is partially Government supported while the beach camp’s profits continue to pay for building upkeep and a few teacher salaries.
Needless to say, you can feel good about where your money is going!
Maranatha Beach Camp as seen from the water
BOOKING
The beauty of the Maranatha Beach Camp is that you won’t find it on any booking site. Outside of reviews on TripAdvisor, there’s really not a whole lot of information out there, which only adds to the allure of this isolated oasis.
Don’t worry, I can see your confusion. If there’s no information available, then how does one book accommodation?
Send an e-mail request. Once a response is received, you’re good to go! That’s all it takes.
There is no online payment processing and no deposits necessary. Simply show up and pay on site in cash.
GETTING THERE
The first step in reaching the beach camp is to find your way to the small fishing town of Ada-Foah. This can be accomplished by either private taxi from Accra or using the public transportation system, commonly referred to as Tro-Tros (find the van heading to Ada-Foah from the Tudu Station in Accra).
After the 2 hour drive east from the capital, you can either hire a motorbike to Maranatha and walk the rest of the way through the town (the walk is across the sand, so it’s not ideal if you’re dragging large suitcases) or you can arrange to be picked up by boat (additional charge per person).
If opting for the latter, it’s best to arrange it through the beach camp prior to arrival in order to save money. Other people will offer their boat services once you arrive in Ada-Foah, but these will typically be a bit more expensive.
Arriving via fishing boat
THE ACCOMMODATION
It’s important to keep things in perspective when talking about what’s available. Maranatha Beach Camp is off the beaten track, comprised of thatched huts on the beach, and is relatively isolated meaning that electricity and running water are scarce.
Does that mean you should stay away? Absolutely not. It’s just important that you know what to expect before you show up with a mental image of a pristine beachfront cabana.
With that being said, I was pleasantly surprised with the overall quality and cleanliness. It’s clear that Winfred and his staff care deeply about what has been built and it shows in how they maintain and continuously improve their facilities!
Rooms (prices as of 2023):
It’s almost inconceivable how affordable room rates are, making it a great place to visit for any budget traveler. Here’s the gist:
Sand Floor Rooms: 60-100 GHC per night
Turtle Lodge Rooms (enclosed with solid floor): 100-200 GHC per night
VIP room with washroom: 250 GHC per night
Keep in mind that each hut is mere feet away from the water’s edge. There’s no such thing as a “good or bad location” here.
Facilities:
Communal vault toilets and bucket showers are available and cleaned daily. It’s not luxury by any means, but trust me when I say that guests have everything they need.
A small soccer pitch and volleyball court have been drawn out in the sand and there are plenty of games to play and hammocks to lounge in throughout the day.
Food and drinks are available by cash purchases at the restaurant/bar on site. Everything is sourced locally and is very affordable, so you won’t break the bank by eating 3 meals a day.
Beach huts dot the beach along the soccer pitch
WHAT TO EXPECT
Maranatha Beach Camp isn’t just a hangout for foreigners, but it’s a local hotspot as well! You’re just as likely to meet fellow travelers from around the world as you are to converse with people from the surrounding communities, especially on the weekends.
Upon arrival, you'll be offered the chance to tour the Maranatha Community School. Take it. It’s a great way to learn about the history of the operation and will shed new light on just what the beach camp means to the community.
The daytime atmosphere is laid back and friendly. Lounge in a hammock as local vendors pass through with fresh coconuts, start a game of volleyball, swim in the Volta River (much calmer than the Gulf of Guinea) or, if visiting on the weekend, dance the night away around the infamous beach bonfire.
It’s also possible to organize a boat tour around the Volta Estuary to places like Rum Island, where locally sourced sugar cane is turned into this satisfying spirit. The Volta River is an important part of Eastern Ghana, and spending some time cruising around is a great way to gain insight as to just how vital of a role it plays in sustaining life.
As the day ends, grab a cold beer while sunset illuminates the sky. One of my favorite things to do in the evenings is simply to sit on the beach and watch the twinkling lights of passing ships as they move across the horizon. My body may relax, but my mind never stops wandering!
Sunset over the Gulf of Guinea
IMPORTANT TIPS
Charge electronics ahead of time: With limited electricity, it’s important to make sure larger electronics you plan on using have full juice ahead of time (i.e. a camera). A portable power bank is a great item to pack for smaller gadgets!
Overestimate cash needed: Maranatha Beach Camp is a cash-only establishment. Normally this wouldn’t mean much except there are no ATMs available in the area. It’s important to bring enough money for accommodation, transportation, meal costs, extra boat tours, drinks at the bar, etc.
During one of my visits, I was forced to ask the tro-tro to stop at an ATM on the way back to Accra because I had no more cash in my pockets and wouldn’t have been able to pay for the ride!
Bring supplemental snacks: This is especially important if you are a vegan. Although food is fresh and available at the restaurant, it can be difficult to find something to fit that specific dietary need. Make sure to shop ahead of time as, like ATMs, there are no supermarkets to be found.
Plan on buying goods: Whether a bottle of local sugar cane rum or handmade jewelry from a vendor on the beach, plan on at least having the opportunity to purchase some sort of souvenir and factor that into your cash withdrawal.
WORTH IT?
Absolutely.
The friendly atmosphere is second to none and it’s a great opportunity to engage with the local community.
Most visitors spend 2-3 days here and leave feeling rested and relaxed, but if you’re in search of a longer escape then it may be worthwhile to learn about the community’s organized volunteer programs.
Either way, next time you find yourself in Ghana, make the effort to visit the Maranatha Beach Camp!
It’s certainly not the easiest of places to reach, but the most beautiful ones never are and I won’t soon forget this little slice of paradise.
So, are you ready to claim your very own beach bungalow and unwind for a few nights? I know I am!
Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them.
Until next time, stay safe & happy travels!