Africa, Ghana, guide, travel Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, guide, travel Chris Toone

Discover Tranquility at Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana

Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana. This small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region…

Note: All information is updated as of April 2025

Looking for a serene escape in nature's lap? Welcome to Tagbo Falls Lodge, my favorite place in Ghana.

Owned by Jolinaiko Eco-Tours, this small and unassuming lodge is the perfect retreat for travelers seeking peace, adventure, and a connection with nature deep within Ghana’s Volta Region.

Relax in a hammock and get lost in a good book, enjoy delicious food, or explore the village… there’s something for everyone.

Here’s everything you need to know about staying at this hidden gem in Liati Wote, Ghana.

Let me be the first to welcome you to Tagbo Falls Lodge!

Mount Aduadu stands tall above the lush forest in Ghana's Volta Region

Mount Aduadu above the lush forests of Ghana’s Volta Region

ABOUT THE AREA: LIATI WOTE AND GHANA’S VOLTA REGION

Tagbo Falls Lodge is situated on the edge of a picturesque village, Liati Wote. Nestled near the border with Togo in Ghana’s Volt Region, this part of the country is renowned for its rolling hills, lush forests, and cascading waterfalls.

Although less than 600 members, Liati Wote prides itself on its community-based tourism approach, warmly welcoming people from all over the world to their slice of paradise in the mountains.

At first, I’ll admit, I was a bit put off by the term “tourist village”, imagining the all-too-often haggling on the streetside, drummers and dancers dressing up to beat drums for eager ears, ultimately existing to please the tourists rather than educate.

Boy, I was wrong. Liati Wote is nothing but laid back, making it possible to coexist to whatever degree you wish during your stay. That’s hard to find a world full of overtourism and the opportunism that comes from it.

Take a few steps down the dirt road outside the entrance and you’ll find yourself in the shadow of Ghana’s highest peak, Mount Afadjato. Keep walking towards town and you’ll find your way to the trailhead to the stunning Tagbo Falls (be sure to bring a swimsuit).

Liati Wote isn’t just about nature, though. Wander around town and you’ll quickly spot waste bins all around, part of a plastic waste reduction initiative from the Stepping Stones of Africa Foundation.

More recently, the NGO established the Nuku Arts Center in town, offering a workspace for upcycling while providing locally handmade goods for purchase.

Are you sold yet? Whether you’re a solo traveler, backpacker, or nature enthusiast, Liati Wote is a must-visit spot on any Volta Region travel itinerary.



HOW TO GET TO LIATI WOTE, GHANA, AND TAGBO FALLS LODGE

Getting to Tagbo Falls Lodge isn’t necessarily easy, but that’s part of the fun, right? From Accra, take a bus or drive to HoHoe, the largest city in the Volta Region. From there, you can hire a taxi or take a shared minibus (locally called “tro-tro”) to Liati Wote.

In the past, I’ve taken tro-tro from the Tema-Akosombo road to Golokwati, before hiring a motorbike to take me the final 45min to Liati Wote. This is the more adventurous way to arrive, but there’s nothing quite like cruising down dirt roads in the fresh mountain air.

  • Estimated travel time from Accra: 5–6 hours

  • From Hohoe to Liati Wote: ~40min by road

Pro tip: Wherever you’re coming from, do yourself a favor and plan to take a private taxi. It eliminates stress, and Ghana’s tro-tro system has a less-than-stellar safety record. Worry less about how to get there, and more about what you’ll do once you reach the lodge!

Entrance to Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Volta Region, Ghana

Entrance to Tagbo Falls Lodge in Liati Wote, Ghana

COST OF ACCOMMODATION AT TAGBO FALLS LODGE

Tagbo Falls Lodge offers a range of accommodations that suit every budget, making it ideal for families and solo travelers, alike. Here is the current list of rooms available, as of 2025:

  • Banana Room (1 queen bed, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)

  • Orange Room (2 single beds, private bathroom): 400/550* GHS/night (USD 26/33)

  • Papaya Room R3 (2 single beds, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)

  • Papaya Room R4 (1 queen bed, shared bathroom): 300 GHS/night (USD 20)

  • Pineapple Room (1 double bed, 2 single beds, private bathroom): 500/650* GHS/night (USD 32/42)

  • Chalet R6 (1 double bed, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)

  • Chalet R7 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)

  • Chalet R8 (2 single beds, private bathroom): 600/750* GHS/night (USD 39/49)

The asterisk is the price for using solar-powered air conditioning. If you can survive off fans, then you’ll pay the lower rate.

Accommodation at Tagbo Falls Lodge does not include breakfast, so that’s important to factor in. With that said, the food here is some of the best I’ve had at any eco-lodge in Ghana. It will be well worth the nominal cost, I promise.

Speaking from experience, it’s important to plan ahead and book early. Weekends fill up quickly, so if you need more flexibility it’s best to try to visit during the week and off-holiday periods.

Ready to book? Contact them directly via WhatsApp at +233 54 955 8307 for any enquiries.

The sun rises behind Mount Afadjato in Liati Wote, Ghana

Morning sunrise in Liati Wote, Ghana

WHAT TO EXPECT DURING YOUR STAY AT TAGBO FALLS LODGE

Tagbo Falls Lodge makes it easy to unplug and reconnect with nature. Upon arrival to the beautiful grounds, you’ll meet the friendly staff, get situated in your room, and immediately start to feel any stress melt away.

Everything about the lodge is cultivated to slow down and step back. If you need guidance they’re there to help, but if you need space, no one will bug you. I have met some wonderful people and have heard some incredible stories from those working there, though, so take time to interact and get to know them (especially Madam Philomina, who cooks all of the delicious meals).

In the middle of the lodge is the communal lounge where meals are served, complete with a bar stocked with local drinks. My personal favorites are the hibiscus juice and Tale Beer’s Hibiscus IPA… I guess you can see a trend there, huh?


Not a fan of independent travel? Check out this tour from Get Your Guide, the best of Ghana’s Volta Region!


There’s limited Wi-Fi (very limited), so bring a good book and be ready to slow down. The data network is also virtually nonexistent except for certain spots in the village, which is my favorite aspect (good luck getting in touch, work colleagues).

If you’re lucky enough to be there as a storm hits, grab a drink and head for the viewing platform and the front of the property to watch clouds and lightning roll in through the mountains surrounding Liati Wote.

One of the best parts of staying at Tagbo Falls Lodge that I haven’t touched on is the food. This is some of the best and most affordable food I’ve had in Ghana and if I find myself within an hour’s drive, I always make it a point to stop by for lunch.

Madam Philomina and her team do a fantastic job, offering both local and continental dishes, including plenty of vegetarian options. Personal favorites include the baobab smoothie (baobab is a superfood native to Northern Ghana but lesser known), coconut curry rice (85 GHS/USD 5.50), and the homemade bread and garlic butter (40 GHS/USD 3).

This is one of the few places you can taste the passion and effort that goes into making the food. I will forever be a Philomina fan – be sure to ask about her duty as Queen Mother of Kpando, a small village on the bank of Lake Volta!

Whether it’s the end of a day full of relaxation or adventure, fall asleep with a happy stomach to the sound of crickets and rushing water and wake up to misty mountain views and crisp, clean air (a rarity in Ghana).

Tagbo Falls Lodge is a top eco-lodge in the country when it comes to its staff, cost, and location, and is a must-include for any Ghana itinerary.

It’s not hard to relax in the gardens of Tagbo Falls Lodge

MUST-DO ATTRACTIONS NEARBY

Although it’s easy to lose track of time and relax at Tagbo Falls Lodge, it also serves as the perfect home base for many other Volta Region activities. Here's what you can do nearby:

1. Hike to Tagbo Falls

The trail to Tagbo Falls is scenic and moderately easy, with a short 45-minute walk through the forest. The waterfall itself is spectacular—cascading into a clear pool that’s perfect for a refreshing dip.

2. Climb Mount Afadjato

Up for a challenge? Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s highest peak. It’s a steep but rewarding 1–2 hour hike, offering panoramic views over the Volta highlands and into neighboring Togo.

3. Visit Amedzofe, Ghana’s Highest Elevated Settlement

Just an hour’s drive away, Amedzofe is another eco-tourism paradise. Walk to the top of Mount Gemi for unparalleled views across the valley below or stroll along the canopy walkway through the forest.

4. Swim in West Africa’s Tallest Waterfall

Pick a moto and ride 40 minutes north along stunning mountain landscapes before arriving at the Wli tourist center. Follow a short, easily accessible trail, and feel the power of Wli Falls, one of Ghana’s top waterfall hikes.

Tagbo Falls is one of Ghana's best waterfall hikes and a stone's throw from Tagbo Falls Lodge

Tagbo Falls is one of Ghana’s best waterfall hikes in the Volta Region

If the above doesn’t sell you on a visit to Tagbo Falls Lodge, then it’s possible you’re on the wrong blog! Just kidding (sort of).

In all seriousness, there are few places I’ve visited throughout my travels in Africa that are as authentic and wholesome as this. It’s time to book that trip for the real Ghana experience.

Tagbo Falls Lodge, Liati Wote, Ghana—add it to your travel list.

Have you visited Ghana’s Volta Region before? Share your experiences in the comments below and, as always, stay safe and happy travels!


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Africa, Ghana, hiking, guide Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, hiking, guide Chris Toone

Climbing Mount Afadjato: A Complete Guide to Hiking Ghana's Tallest Mountain

If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region. When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven…

Note: All information below is accurate as of April 2025

If you’ve been on this blog before, it’s no surprise that this is yet another post about the unbelievable nature of Ghana’s Volta Region.

When I first moved to West Africa, I immediately searched for “top places to hike in Ghana,” and every result pointed back to this mountain. So naturally, the surrounding forests and waterfalls of Mount Afadja have become my safe haven.

Standing at 885 meters (2,904 feet), Mount Afadjato is Ghana’s tallest mountain and offers stunning views of surrounding villages, verdant forests, and even neighboring Togo.

Even more, it’s located in a small, peaceful village with plenty of other trails and waterfalls to explore, including my favorite place to stay: Tagbo Falls Lodge.

Fancy a bit of outdoor adventure on your trip to Ghana? Mount Afadjato is for you!

The view from hiking Ghana's tallest peak, Mount Afadjato

The view of the Volta Region while hiking Mount Afadjato in Ghana

HISTORY & MEANING OF MOUNT AFADJATO

Mount Afadjato derives its name from the Ewe word “Avadzeto,” meaning “at war with the bush.”

As the Ewe tribe settled here from Togo, they were prone to attacks from wild animals. The village revolted, pushing them back into the mountains but as they reached the forest, they were overcome by plants making them itch.

Afadja, Afadjato, it’s all the same! Another way to break it down in the Ewe language: ‘Afar’ means ‘war’, ‘dja’ means ‘plant’, and ‘to’ means ‘mountain.

Despite the name and history, I’m happy to report that the itching plants have since been tamed and it is very safe to hike the trails (but consider long pants, just in case)!

The area remains a symbol of pride for the Ewe people, as Mount Afadja is believed to house the spirits of their ancestors who look over and protect the surrounding communities.



LOCATION AND HOW TO GET THERE

Nestled in the mountains that border Togo, the trailhead is located in the small village of Liati Wote in Ghana’s Volta Region. Sounds great, right? Here’s how to get to Mount Afadjato:

  • By Car: From Accra, take the Accra–Hohoe road and follow signs to Liati Wote. The roads are well-maintained (for the most part), making the drive smooth and scenic as you wind through the mountains. The drive should take ~6 hours.

  • By Public Transport: Buses and shared taxis from Accra to Hohoe are affordable. From Hohoe, hire a taxi or take a shared ride to Liati Wote. Another option is to take a tro-tro to Golokwati, but this often requires 2-3 changes in vehicles along the way.

  • From Nearby Attractions: If you’re already exploring Wli Waterfalls or Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary, Liati Wote is just a short drive away (20-40 min depending on where you’re coming from).

If you don’t want to plan your own transportation, consider one of these pre-arranged tours from Get Your Guide. They depart Accra and sort travel, food, and accommodations along the way!

Pro Tip: Whenever I can, I try to travel around Ghana on Sundays. Everyone is in church and this means much less traffic and dangers on the road – and I get to where I’m going quicker! I have my own car, but your safest option is to either rent or hire a reliable taxi. Although cheap, tro-tros (Ghana’s public transportation) are prone to breakdowns and accidents.

Aerial view of Liati Wote as seen from the trail of Mount Afadjato in Ghana's Volta Region

Aerial view of Liati Wote as seen from the trail of Mount Afadjato in Ghana’s Volta Region

ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS

Liati Wote markets itself as a tourist village (don’t worry, I was initially turned off by this as well, but it’s not what we’re used to when we see that tagline).

There are plenty of tours and options available around town, including multi-day hiking, local gin tours, and surrounding waterfalls, but be warned that each one requires a guide (this is used as a means to boost the local economy).

You can find a guide and look at the options available by checking in at the Liati Wote Toursim Office upon arrival, located at the base of Mount Afadja on the main road of town and typically open 8am, daily.

The tourism office accepts cash only, so come prepared as there are no ATMs within a one hour radius.

Hiking only Mount Afadjato requires a modest fee:

  • Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)

  • Non-Ghanaians: 50 GHS (USD 3)

You can add on and combine with a trip to Tagbo Falls (GHS 40/USD 2.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 80/USD 5 for non Ghanaians), or continue past Mount Afadjato to Mount Aduadu (GHS 70/USD 4.50 for Ghanaians, GHS 100/USD 6.50 for non-Ghanaians).

A Note on Guide Fees: Guides for hiking Mount Afadjato and surrounding tours don’t get paid from trail fees, so come prepared to tip them for their service to support their income. For this hike, GHS 50-100 is reasonable (USD 3-6).

The trail fees do, however, contribute to maintaining the paths and supporting local community projects, such as their recycling initiative – something that is unique to this village!

Pro Tip: There are many guides and not many visitors, meaning it’s important to find one of quality. The only one I’ll use is Faith (+233 55 083 0914). I will meet him at the reception office, pay the entrance fee, give him a tip, and often he’ll let me take myself on the trail!

WHAT TO EXPECT: HIKING MOUNT AFADJATO

Although Mount Afadjato is considered a popular tourist destination in Ghana, let me be direct with you: It’s not for everyone. The trail starts on a flat path, but quickly becomes a leg burner, what feels like a perpetual stair climber machine.

Most people will tell you it takes, on average, around 2 hours round trip, which I found to be accurate, but it was by no means easy. It’s important to wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water and fuel.

Along the way you’ll come across convenient rest stops with scenic views, offering the perfect spot to recharge your legs and observe surrounding wildlife.

Did you know that Ghana is home to over 860 species for butterflies? Don’t worry, I didn’t before moving here, but spotting them is one of my favorite parts of spending time in the Volta Region!

Finally, after 45min-1 hour you’ll reach the peak and soak up the sweeping views across Lake Volta, neighboring Togo, and Liati Wote below. You may even spot Togolese coffee farmers wandering the foohills!

The Volta Region is where both Kawa Moka and Jamestown, two of Ghana’s top coffee companies, produce their beans.

For the most part, the trail is well preserved and shorts and t-shirt will suffice, but if you’re planning to go beyond the peak to nearby Mount Aduadu as I did, be sure to wear long pants.

Reaching this secondary mountain requires bushwhacking lesser-frequented pathways and it’s not uncommon to come across snakes and biting ants.

View of Mount Aduadu at sunrise, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato in Ghana

View of Mount Aduadu at sunrise, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

  1. Tagbo Falls: Located near Mount Afadjato, this tranquil waterfall is an excellent spot to cool off after your hike. I’d recommend climbing Afadja in the morning, and then continuing on (for an additional trail fee) to Tagbo Falls. It’s a flat, short, 40min hike and the trailheads start from the same location! It’s one on my favorite places to spend an afternoon swimming.

  2. Wli Waterfalls: Ghana’s highest and most famous waterfall is just a short drive away (20min) and offers another fantastic nature experience. Similar to Tagbo, this short trail is accessible to everyone and cooling off in the pool under the cascading water is a spiritual experience.

  3. Amedzofe Village: Amedzofe is Ghana’s highest-elevated settlement, originally established by the Germans during colonial times. The area offers cooler weather, more waterfalls, a better (and less frequented) canopy walk than Kakum National Park, and a small climb to the cross on top of Mt. Gemi. If coming from Ho, you’ll pass the turnoff for Amedzofe along the way (less than 1 hour from Liati Wote).

BEST TIME TO HIKE MOUNT AFADJATO

The Harmattan, or dry season, (November to April) is the best time for hiking, as the trails are less muddy. However, the dust being blown from the Sahara can significantly reduce visibility (although makes for beautiful, glowing sunrise).

The rainy season (May to October) brings lush greenery, making the scenery even more vibrant, but the steep trail can get slippery, so be sure to wear proper footwear and plan accordingly.

Finally, beat the heat and hike Mount Afadjato in the morning. If arranged ahead of time, your guide can meet you at the tourist office before sunrise and you can start on the trail before fighting the humidity.

TOP PACKING TIPS FOR YOUR VISIT TO MOUNT AFADJATO

  • Shoes are essential. Especially if planning to visit during rainy season. The trail is steep and can quickly become slippery, so it’s safest to have good treads.

  • Sunscreen and insect repellent. The trail itself traverses dense forest, and the peak is completely exposed so you’ll have to plan for all elements. After years of sweating off my sunscreen in the humidity, I’ve finally switched over to using a stick instead and it’s been a gamechanger!

  • A good camera. The top of Mount Afadjato provides some of the most stunning views in the area. If you’re into landscape photography, this is the place to come. Personally, my Canon 80d has been my best travel companion over the years.

  • A quality dry bag. Hiking in West Africa can be unpredictable, especially during the rainy season. I’ll always bring my Marchway dry bag to protect my valuables.

  • Don’t forget a quick-dry towel. Whether caught in the rains or planning to add on a visit to Tagbo Falls, a lightweight towel is the perfect item to add to your pack.

  • Water and Fuel. Regardless of season or time of day, you’ll work hard to get to the top of Mount Afadjato. Come prepared with plenty of water and snacks. There aren’t many options available in town, but you can always also your guide where to pick up supplies.

  • A reliable SIM card. Traveling outside of Accra is never easy and it pays to have a reliable in-country SIM. Recently, I’ve been using Airalo on my travels and, although I enjoy collects SIM cards, they take away the stress of losing it or always looking for a pin to open the port!

The view of the valley below from the peak in Mount Afadjato in Ghana

A view into the valley below, shot from the peak of Mount Afadjato

Standing on top of Ghana’s tallest mountain at sunrise is a scene I won’t soon forget. Accra is great, but experiencing the breathtaking nature in the Volta Region is a must during any visit to Ghana, and Liati Wote is the perfect place to base.

Explore, rest, and walk away refreshed from your time in these stunning mountains.

Have you conquered Mount Afadjato or plan to visit? Share your experience in the comments below. As always, stay safe and happy travels!


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Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors Chris Toone

A Complete Guide to Visiting Wli Waterfalls in Ghana

Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls…

Note: All information below is accurate as of March 2025.

If you haven’t caught on yet, I’m a big fan of the nature in Ghana and, after moving here, I was surprised to learn that the highest waterfall in West Africa is only a short day-trip away from my home.

Hidden in the lush greenery of Ghana's Volta Region lies a breathtaking natural wonder, offering an unforgettable experience for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.

Here’s your ultimate guide to making the most of your visit to Wli Waterfalls!

Mountains at sunrise in Ghana's Volta Region

Ghana’s Volta Region is full of lush mountains along the border with Togo

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Wli Falls, also called Agumatsa Falls, means "let me flow" in the Ewe language. The falls are fed by the Agumatsa River, which comes from neighboring Togo, and plummets 80 meters over the cliffs and into the pools below.

Although a popular tourist spot, the surrounding nature is still relatively untouched, making for a serene and peaceful day in the forest. You’ll run into colorful butterflies, plenty of birds, and even a colony fruit bats along the cliffs.

So, now that you’re hooked, when’s the best time to visit Wli Waterfalls? Well, there are two options that depend on what your priority is.

Dry season in Ghana, also known as Harmattan, runs from November to March. During this time the hiking weather is more pleasant, but the flow of the falls will be slower.

In contrast, rainy season occurs from April to October and makes the hike a bit more difficult with muddy trails, but you’ll get to experience the roar of the waterfalls at full force. Personally, I’d choose the rainy season, but it’s a great place to spend an afternoon either way.

Finally, it’s important to be aware that there are two trails: one to lower falls, and one to upper. The lower trail is classified as easy and good for all ages, while the upper falls trail is moderate to hard and requires a guide (these can be found at the main office).

Choose your adventure and plan accordingly!

Standing beneath West Africa's tallest waterfall in Ghana

Standing beneath Ghana’s Wli Waterfalls

HOW TO GET THERE

Wli Waterfalls is located near the town of Hohoe in Ghana's Volta Region and is most easily accessible by car from Accra. The good news is that, unlike other regions of Ghana, the roads in and out of the waterfall area are well maintained, making for a breathtakingly beautiful drive along the mountainous border with Togo.

To get here…

  • By Car: From Accra, it’s about a 4-5 hour drive (approximately 230 km). The route takes you through scenic landscapes and vibrant local villages. The biggest places to stop for petrol along the way are Atimpoku, Juapong, and Peki (if passing through Golokwati).

  • By Public Transport: Take a bus or shared taxi from Accra to Hohoe, then hire a taxi or moto to Wli, which is about 20min away.

Pro Tip: Share a taxi for the day or hire your own car. Local minibus transportation, also known as tro-tros, are notorious for accidents and breakdowns, especially when covering longer distances outside of Accra.

ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS

For a comprehensive list of admittance fees, including child and student discounts, visit the official Wli Waterfalls website.

  • Entry Fee (Lower Falls):

    • Ghanaians: 25 GHS (USD 1.60)

    • Non-Ghanaians: 60 GHS (USD 4.00)

  • Upper Falls Guided Hikes:

    • Ghanaians: 60-70 GHS (USD 4.00-4.50)

    • Non-Ghanaians: 80-90 GHS (USD 5.00-6.00)

Bring extra cash for souvenirs, snacks, or donations to support the local community. A small market is setup outside of the Tourism Office, making it easy to stock up on water and other supplies.

Pro Tip: Remember to tip your guide and get their contact information to recommend their services to others. Ghana’s economy functions off connections and who knows who, so this small gesture will go a long way.



WHAT TO EXPECT

The Lower Falls:

A gentle, 30-minute walk through Ghana’s lush nature on a well-marked trail leads to the lower falls. You’ll cross scenic wooden bridges and enjoy the vibrant sights and sounds of the rainforest. The cascading waters create a refreshing natural pool perfect for a swim.

You’ll hear the falls before you can see them and pay close attention to the towering cliffs as they come into view between the tree-tops. This is where the fruit bat colony resides and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch them flying off the rocks.

The Upper Falls:

For a more challenging adventure, embark on a steep 3-4 hour hike to the upper falls (guide required). The trek rewards you with stunning views and a quieter, less-crowded experience. There is both a short loop and a long loop, so be sure to discuss with the Tourism Office before setting out on your adventure.

Unlike Lower Wli Falls, the Upper requires hiking through grassy foothills and on narrow paths, so be sure to bring appropriate footwear and long pants. A moderate level of fitness is required for this trail.

Pro Tip: To avoid the crowds, plan your visit for a Sunday morning. This will ensure you beat the post-church rush and as they move in, you’ll be on your way back out!

A man swims in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana's Volta Region

Swimming in the pools beneath Wli Falls in Ghana

NEARBY PLACES TO VISIT

Make your trip even more memorable by exploring more nature near Wli Waterfalls:

  1. Amedzofe Canopy Walk: A short 1 hour drive away, Amedzofe is the highest elevated settlement in Ghana and is where you’ll find a canopy walkway with the stunning Oti Falls as a backdrop.

  2. Mount Afadja (Afadjato): Ghana's tallest mountain offers a thrilling hiking experience and panoramic views in neighboring Liati Wote.

  3. Tagbo Falls: Another serene waterfall located near Mount Afadja, perfect for a peaceful escape and my favorite place to soak up Ghana’s nature.

WHAT TO BRING

  • Hiking Boots: Especially if hiking the Upper Falls or visiting in rainy season.

  • Swimsuit and Towel: Even if you don’t plan to swim, still bring it. The swimming pools act as a great way to cool off from Ghana’s heat and humidity! Pack lightly with a quick dry towel.

  • Waterproof Bag: Protect your valuables and be sure bring a waterproof bag, especially if there’s a risk of rain! I never hike in Ghana without my Marchway dry bag.

  • Water and Snacks: Wli Waterfalls is located within the Agumatsa Wildlife Sanctuary, so although these items are easily accessible at the trailhead, please remember to pack out what you bring in!

  • A Good Book: What better way to recharge then lounging at the base of West Africa’s tallest waterfall and enjoying a good book. Ever since moving abroad and traveling more extensively, I never leave home without my Kindle Oasis.

A visit to Wli Waterfalls is more than just a trip—it’s an immersion into Ghana's natural beauty and cultural richness. Whether you’re splashing in the lower falls or hiking to the upper falls, you’ll leave refreshed and ready for more of all Ghana has to offer.

Have you visited Wli Waterfalls or plan to go? Share your thoughts in the comments below!


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Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors, travel Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, guide, hiking, outdoors, travel Chris Toone

Tagbo Falls: A Hiker’s Paradise in Liati Wote, Ghana

The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area….

Note: All information below is updated as of October 2024, but as Ghana’s economy fluctuates so to can costs of guides, accommodations, etc.

Ten years. That’s the amount of time I've been traveling in and out of Ghana without having visited the Volta Region and I’ll be the first to admit, I had no idea what I was missing. Verdant mountains rising high along the border with Togo, coffee farms, waterfalls, and endless hiking trails are all at your fingertips.

The Volta Region is home to some of the country’s most breathtaking natural beauty, and nestled in this lush landscape is Tagbo Falls—a hidden gem and my favorite under-the-radar destination in the area.

Hiking to Tagbo Falls is a relatively easy trail with minimal elevation gain and few obstacles. The trail winds through the serene rainforest, cacao farms and, if you time it right, butterfly colonies fluttering along the path, all culminating at the stunning falls.

Take a swim, enjoy the afternoon in the forest, and make the most of this hidden gem.

Overlooking the Volta Region in Eastern Ghana at sunrise, on top of Mount Afadjato

View overlooking the mountains in the Volta Region of Ghana, from the top of Mount Afadjato

HOW TO GET TO TAGBO FALLS

Tagbo Falls is located in the village of Liati Wote, just at the base of Mount Afadjato, Ghana’s highest free-standing peak. To reach Liati Wote:

  1. From Accra: It’s about a 3-4 hour drive (200 km). The most common route is via the Hohoe road. You can rent a car or take a tro-tro from Accra’s Tudu Station to Hohoe, then catch a taxi or motorbike to Liati Wote.

  2. Through Golokwati: An alternative route is to take a tro-tro (local transportation) from Accra through Atimpoku and Juapong, towards Golokwati. Once there, jump on a local motorbike to take you the rest of the way (80 GHC, around USD 5.50) and enjoy the dirt roads as you wind towards the fresh air in the mountains.

The village of Liati Wote from above at sunset

Aerial view of Liate Wote, Ghana at sunset

HIKING TO TAGBO FALLS & WHAT TO EXPECT

Note: Remember, this is West Africa which means it’s important to keep an eye out for trail hazards, including snakes, ants, and even land crabs.

The hike to Tagbo Falls is around 45 minutes to an hour each way, depending on your pace and how often you stop to soak in the surroundings. The trail itself is moderate in difficulty, with one or two steep sections that are completely manageable, unless it’s rainy season.

The trail starts at the same point as Mt. Afadjato, branching off to the right from the community park, and is marked the entire way.



Here’s a breakdown of what to plan for:

  • Lush Rainforest: The hike takes you through a rich tropical rainforest, where you’ll encounter towering trees, vines, and an array of birds and butterflies. Keep your eyes peeled for other wildlife – the last time I was on this trail we unexpectedly came across a land crab. It’s tempting to try the cacao pods, but remember this is someone’s livelihood and it’s best to leave the trail as you found it.

  • Streams and Bridges: As you approach the falls, you’ll cross a series of small streams, all structurally sound and easily navigable.

  • The Waterfall: Once you arrive, you’ll be greeted by the spectacular 60-meter-high Tagbo Falls. The waterfall cascades into a cool, clear pool at the base, which is perfect for a refreshing swim after the hike. Surrounded by the dense forest, the falls creates one of the best secluded spaces in Ghana in relax and unwind. There’s a sign post stating “No Swimming” but, as the guides say, this is to deter people that don’t know how to swim from trying.

  • Guides and Entry Fees: Liati Wote is an unconventional tourist destination (yet extremely less visited than the description suggests). Guides are volunteer and required for all excursions. They make their money on tips provided.  That said, it’s also possible to pay the trail fee, include a tip, and go guide-free on some of the more common trails, including Tagbo Falls. This gives a bit more flexibility and allows you to enjoy the waterfall as long as you want.

    The entry fee to Mount Afadjato and Tagbo Falls is GHC 80 (USD 4.50) for both. This price drops if you visit just the waterfall. A common practice is to tip 40-50 cedis per guide.

Aerial view of Tagbo Falls in Volta Region of Ghana

The swimming hole at Tagbo Falls in Ghana makes for the perfect afternoon relaxation spot

PACKING TIPS & TRICKS FOR TAGBO FALLS

  • Hiking shoes: Essential for navigating the sometimes muddy and uneven trail, especially if it has recently rained.

  • Swimsuit and towel: For a refreshing dip in the cool waters of Tagbo Falls. My go-to quick dry towel is from Olympia Fit. Lightweight and reliable, get it here.

Note: There is nowhere to change by the waterfall other than in the forest. Washrooms and changing stalls can be found at the community park at the trailhead.

  • Water and snacks: Shops in Liati Wote are minimal, at best. It’s recommended to pack in everything you think you’ll need.

  • Camera: The scenery is stunning, and you’ll want to capture the moment!

  • Waterproof Bag: Be sure to protect your valuables from the streams and waterfall spray. It’s also useful as you never know when a storm will blow through the forest. Check out this one from Marchway — I never hike in Ghana without it and it keeps my camera gear dry!

BEST TIME TO VISIT TAGBO FALLS

The best time to visit Tagbo Falls is during the rainy season (from April to October) when the waterfall is at its fullest. However, the trail can be slippery during heavy rains, so be sure to wear sturdy hiking boots and plan accordingly. The dry season (November to March) offers easier hiking conditions, but the waterfall might be less dramatic.

A person wades to the base of Tagbo Falls in the Volta Region of Ghana

It’s hard to pass on the swimming hole at the base of Tagbo Falls

PLACES TO STAY NEAR TAGBO FALLS

While Liati Wote is a small village, there are several accommodation options nearby for travelers:

  1. Wli Waterfalls Lodge: Located in Wli, about a 30-minute drive from Liati Wote, this cozy lodge offers comfortable rooms, delicious local meals, and easy access to both Wli and Tagbo Falls. A room here can cost between USD 20 and 40.

  2. Afadjato Guesthouse: This simple guesthouse is located right in Liati Wote and is a great option if you want to stay close to the trailhead. It offers basic amenities and a friendly, local atmosphere.

  3. Tagbo Falls Lodge: This is by far and away my favorite place to stay in Ghana. The eco-lodge is located in Liati Wote, adjacent to the guesthouse, and provides unparalleled meals from their organic garden at affordable prices. The phone network is limited, making it the perfect place to disconnect and unwind. A room here costs between USD 20 and 35. Be sure to book ahead of time as this is a popular retreat due to its limited hosting capacity. Be sure to try Madam Philomina’s stove-top bread with garlic butter!

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

  • Mount Afadjato: If you’re feeling adventurous, why not tackle Mount Afadjato? It’s a short hike from Liati Wote, and reaching the summit offers stunning views over the Volta Region and even into neighboring Togo. There’s nothing better than a sunrise hike to the summit followed by an early morning swim at Tagbo on the way back to town.

  • Wli Falls: Just 30 minutes away, Wli Falls is another must-see waterfall. It’s the tallest in West Africa, and the hike to the lower falls is less challenging, making it easily accessible for all fitness levels. Additional options are available, including a more strenuous journey to the upper falls, skirting the border with Togo.

  • Amedzofe Canopy Walk: About an hour’s drive from Liati Wote leads to Amedzofe, Ghana’s highest elevated settlement. Here you’ll find untouched nature and one of the most picturesque canopy walkways, nestled in the mountains with Oti Falls flowing underneath. It’s definitely a spot worth checking out!

The light kisses the top of Tagbo Falls in Ghana

The sunlight makes a beautiful scene as it illuminates the top of the canopy above Tagbo Falls

It may sound extreme, but a visit to Tagbo Falls is the best way to experience one of Ghana’s most beautiful natural landscapes.

Whether you’re a solo traveler or exploring with friends, this adventure offers the perfect combination of challenge, reward, and tranquility.

So lace up your boots, pack your bags, and get ready for a day full of nature in the heart of the Volta Region!

In the meantime, stay safe & happy travels!

Have you hiked Tagbo Falls before? Share your experience in the comments!


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Africa, Ghana, guide, outdoors, travel Chris Toone Africa, Ghana, guide, outdoors, travel Chris Toone

Exploring Mole National Park: Ghana’s Premier Wildlife Destination

Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest and most famous wildlife reserve, offering a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. Located in the northern part of the country, it’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for an immersive safari experience...

Note: All information is up to date as October 2024 and is based around staying at the Mole Motel, however other accommodations exist within the park and are included in the post below.

Mole National Park is Ghana’s largest and most famous wildlife reserve. Located in the northern part of the country, it offers a breathtaking blend of savannah landscapes and diverse animal species. It’s a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, and eco-tourists looking for a unique safari experience.

After visiting Ghana for the past fifteen years and living here full-time for two, it’s a place that’s at the top of my list to not only bring visitors to but also myself to recharge and slow down!

An elephant is spotted at Mole National Park in Ghana

An elephant is spotted on a morning game drive at Mole National Park in Ghana

HISTORY

Established in 1958 and officially designated as a national park in 1971, Mole National Park covers approximately 4,849 square kilometers. It is home to over 90 mammal species, including elephants, buffalo, baboons, warthogs, and antelopes. Depending on the park ranger, you may even hear a tale about the elusive lions that some say still roam the expansive interior forests. The park also boasts nearly 300 bird species, making it a hotspot for birdwatchers.

One of the Mole’s unique features is its year-round accessibility and the chance to observe elephants up close, especially during the dry season when they frequent waterholes. As one of West Africa’s best-preserved wildlife reserves, Mole National Park continues to attract travelers looking for an authentic African safari experience in a less commercialized setting.

I’ve visited the park in January, April, August, and December and have never been disappointed with wildlife viewing. Warthogs roam the motel grounds and even elephants come to say ‘hello’ at times. Careful of the baboons, though. They’ve been known to steal your food at the restaurant and open your room if it’s not locked — speaking from experience.

An antelope is spotted in the morning glow at Mole National Park - Ghana, West Africa

HOW TO GET TO MOLE NATIONAL PARK

Mole National Park is located in northern Ghana, approximately 150 kilometers from Tamale, the capital of the Northern Region. There are several ways to get there:

  • By Air: The easiest way is to fly from Accra to Tamale Airport. From Tamale, a private vehicle can be arranged through your accommodations. Other options include a shared taxi or a bus to Mole, which takes around 3-4 hours. Note: things are spread apart in the northern areas of Ghana. The most efficient option is a private vehicle with driver that costs GHC 1,500 round trip.

  • By Road: For those who prefer road travel, buses operate from Accra, Kumasi, and other major cities to Larabanga, the nearest town to the park. From Larabanga, it’s a short ride to Mole National Park.


Don’t want to do the planning? Check out this 3-day tour to Northern Ghana!


ENTRANCE AND ACCOMMODATION

The beauty of Mole National Park lies in its affordable rates compared to other safari destinations in Africa. The entry fees are as follows:

  • Ghanaian citizens: GHS 10–15 (approx. USD 1–2)

  • Non-residents: GHS 40–60 (approx. USD 4–6)

*Discounts apply for children and students

Vehicles: Vehicles must also pay a nominal entrance fee into the park. This is the case even if a driver is dropping you off and will pick you in a few days. A Ghana registered car will cost GHC 5.00.

Accommodation: Mole offers a variety of accommodation options to suit different budgets, all located within the park:

Mole Motel:

This budget-friendly option offers basic rooms and chalets with stunning views of the park’s watering holes, where elephants and other animals often gather. Rates start around USD 30–75 per night. A range of accommodations is available, from dorm rooms to chalets overlooking the watering hole.

Although basic and far from luxurious, most rooms include A/C and I can personally attest that they have made several improvements over the years. Plus, the whole point is to be outdoors and enjoy nature, right?

A restaurant and bar exists onsite and offers a wide variety of food, including pizzas, burgers, local foods, and even Chinese. If you’re looking for a truly northern Ghana experience, don't miss the guinea fowl. This tough meat is a Ghanaian favorite in that part of the country!

Mole Motel is a great place to bring a book, enjoy a Club beer, and relax by the pool while spotting elephants below. It’s one of my favorite places in Ghana to experience a sunset.

It’s not uncommon to see a family of warthogs grazing the grounds or elephants visiting the motel for breakfast! Sometimes the universe is in your favor and the wildlife comes to you.

Note: Although Mole Motel is listed as having wifi, the network is very unstable It works enough to send messages from your phone, depending on where you are, but I would not recommend coming here for remote work.

Zaina Lodge:

For those seeking a more luxurious experience, Zaina Lodge offers high-end accommodations with private tented chalets, an infinity pool, and premium services. Prices start at USD 300 per night and are inclusive of meals and game drives.

I haven’t stayed here because I prefer Mole Motel. Part of the charm of northern Ghana is the raw and remote wilderness, but I can see how a luxury place like this would be great for family vacations!

Camping:

For the more adventurous, camping facilities are available within the park near the ranger's station just outside of Mole Motel. You’ll need your own gear, and fees are approximately GHS 50 (USD 3) per night.

Mole Motel in Ghana captured in the morning light

Mole Motel in Ghana as seen from the watering hole

WHAT TO EXPECT

Visiting Mole National Park provides an unforgettable safari experience without the crowds typical of other African reserves. The best times to visit are during the dry season (November to April), when animals congregate around water sources, making sightings easier.

Three of the most common activities in Mole National Park are walking safaris, game drives, and birdwatching:

Walking Safari:

Mole is one of the few national parks in Africa where you can go on a walking safari. Accompanied by armed rangers, you’ll explore the park on foot and get incredibly close to elephants, antelope, and more. Some level of fitness is required for this and it’s best to go early in the morning to avoid the heat.

If you don’t spot elephants on your trek, don’t worry. Rangers will happily take you back into the bush when they are spotted near the watering hole throughout the day (for an additional fee, of course).

The walking safaris are so cheap because all you pay for is a guide at an hourly rate (GHC 12 per hour for non-nationals). You read that right: a two-hour walking safari with elephants will cost you GHC 24, around USD 1.50. These occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm each day and no sign-up is required. Simply show up at the guard station!

Game Drives:

Open-top vehicle safaris offer a different perspective of the park, covering larger distances and giving you a better chance of spotting wildlife like warthogs, buffalo, and birds of prey.

There are day-time and night-time safari options, both with unique advantages. I’d recommend doing both as the drive in the dark gives unparalleled views of the stars and you’ll often see different animals such as bush babies, genet cats, owls, and more. If you’re lucky, maybe you’ll see an elephant both during the day and night!

For small children and those with fitness concerns, driving is the more comfortable and accessible option.

Compared to a walking safari, the game drives are a bit more expensive as you must pay both the guide and vehicle fees. A safari-vehicle rental fee for both day and night is GHC 200 per hour and a guide fee for non-nationals at night is GHC 40 per hour while daytime is GHC 12 per hour.

This means a two-hour game drive during the day will cost you GHC 424, around USD 25, and at night GHC 480, or USD 30. If you make friends at motel, share a vehicle and lower the costs by splitting the vehicle fee between people.

Similar to walking safaris, game drives occur at 7 am and 3:30 pm daily, while night drives take place from 7pm-9pm.

Note: Book your night safari early at the guard station. These must be reserved in advance to ensure a vehicle is available.

Birdwatching:

Mole is a paradise for birdwatchers, with species such as the white-backed vulture, martial eagle, and saddle-billed stork commonly spotted. Birdwatching tours are also available for those keen to explore the avian diversity and can be enquired through Mole National Park’s website.

A Woodland Kingfisher is spotted with an elephant in the background - Mole National Park, Ghana

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

Mole National Park is a gateway to several other exciting destinations in northern Ghana and many visitors pair it with a cultural trip to the surrounding areas. Don’t be surprised if you’re approached by a tour guide at the motel; this is common practice!

Larabanga Mosque:

Just a 20-minute drive from Mole, this ancient mosque is an architectural gem and holds significant religious and historical importance in Ghana. Visitors can take guided tours to learn about its fascinating history, and explore community projects in the village like the local school and a shea butter-making process.

Mognori Eco-Village:

Located just outside the park, this community-run initiative offers visitors the chance to experience traditional village life. You can take a canoe safari along the Mole River or enjoy a cultural drumming and dancing session with the locals.


Ready to explore more of Ghana’s natural beauty? Click here to get started!


WHAT TO PACK

Make no mistake about it, although Mole National Park is a well-visited tourist destination, it’s still very remote and there are some important considerations when packing. Here’s what to bring:

  • Cash — Credit cards are accepted at the Mole Motel and Restaurant (network dependent), but it’s cash-only to pay the park rangers for the safaris. There’s also a small provisions and gift shop which is also cash-only. Stop at an ATM in Tamale and pull out enough money for your visit.

  • Medicine — You never know how your body will respond to different foods in remote areas. It’s best to pack basic medicines for stomach issues, allergies, and more. On one trip my friend was stung by a wasp, his eye swelled, and all we could do was “ice” it with the coldest water bottle we could find. There is a small health clinic in the nearby village within park borders, but don’t rely on this (speaking from experience)!

  • Warm Clothes — If visiting in December, it gets cold at night which means the morning and night game drives will require you to bring layers. It sounds odd given Ghana’s equatorial location, but trust me when I say the last thing you want is to be on top of a safari vehicle shivering for two hours.

  • Torch — When the sun goes down, it gets dark and the last thing you want to do is stumble upon a mother warthog grazing with her children. The grounds within the motel gates are small, but it’s still useful to have a torch to get back to your room after a few drinks at the bar to cap off a day of adventure.

  • Portable Charger - This comes in handy for multiple reasons. You won’t want your phone dying on a safari just when you track down an elephant. If you have the right model, it also serves as a hand warmer for those cool savanna mornings.

A hazy sunset overlooking the waterhole at Mole National Park in Ghana

A hazy December sunset overlooking the watering hole at Mole National Park in Ghana

Mole National Park offers a unique and tranquil safari experience, perfect for travelers who want to immerse themselves in nature and observe wildlife in its natural habitat. Whether walking alongside elephants or watching a sunset over the savannah from the lodge, Mole promises a serene and unforgettable adventure. With its affordable prices, accessible location, and nearby cultural attractions, it’s an essential stop on any Ghana travel itinerary.

Ready to explore Ghana’s wild side? Start planning your Mole National Park adventure today and check out more posts about this incredible country below!


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Ghana, Africa, guide, travel Chris Toone Ghana, Africa, guide, travel Chris Toone

Exploring the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana: Everything you need to know before you go

Tucked away in the Upper West Region of Ghana, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary offers visitors an extraordinary experience combining wildlife, culture, and scenic beauty. For nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, this off-the-beaten-path destination is a must-see during your trip to Ghana. Here’s everything you need to know about visiting the sanctuary...

Note: All information below is updated as of September 2024

Tucked away in the remote Upper West Region of Ghana, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary offers visitors an extraordinary experience combining wildlife, culture, and scenic beauty. For nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, this off-the-beaten-path destination is a must-see during your trip to Ghana. Here’s everything you need to know before you go.

HISTORY OF WECHIAU HIPPO SANCTUARY

The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is a community-run conservation project, created to protect one of the last remaining populations of hippos in Ghana. Established in 1999 in partnership with the Calgary Zoo, the sanctuary spans a 40-kilometer stretch along the Black Volta River, which forms part of the border between Ghana and Burkina Faso. Not only does it protect hippos, but it also preserves the surrounding savannah, woodland, and riverine ecosystems, while promoting sustainable tourism that benefits local communities.

Black Volta River from above

HOW TO GET TO WECHIAU

The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is located about 85 kilometers from Wa, the capital of the Upper West Region. Visitors traveling from Accra or other major cities in Ghana can fly into Wa Airport, with a connecting domestic flight from Kotoka International Airport.

Passion Air is the only domestic airline to run the route and has only one daily flight except for Tuesdays and Saturdays. Tickets will cost you between USD 150-250.

It’s important to note that Ghana’s domestic flights aren’t immune to last-minute delays or cancelations but Passion Air is reputable for following through on rebooking and refunds.

Once in Wa, you can take a bus, shared taxi, or hire a private car to reach the sanctuary. The road from Wa to Wechiau is generally in good condition, but is not paved the entire way turning off the main road it will be dirt the rest of the way.

The drive is approximately 45min - 1 hour from Wa to the sanctuary reception. Once finished there, it’s another 45min drive through farming paths, heavy brush, and washed out “roads” to the riverbank.

If you find yourself on a whirlwind of a roadtrip through Northern Ghana like we were, then your best bet is to reach Wa from Tamale. This 4.5 hour drive is mostly on paved roads and takes you around the outer rim of Mole National Park, making it an easy trip to pair with the elephant safari and Larabanga Ancient Mosque if you have a few days.

A bloat of hippos spotted on the river

COST OF VISITING THE WECHIAU HIPPO SANCTUARY

The entrance fee for the sanctuary is relatively affordable, and it directly supports the conservation efforts and local community. As of 2024, prices for non-residents hover around GHS 30–50 (approx. USD 3–5), while Ghanaian citizens may pay a reduced rate. Additionally, guided tours of the sanctuary are available, costing around GHS 100–150 (USD 10–15) per group (this includes guide and boat fee).


Ready to learn more about Ghana? Check out these posts


WHERE TO STAY IN WECHIAU

Most accommodation options are in Wa. Two to consider are:

Dellagio Hotel: A welcomed site after a long couple days of driving. This hotel is comfortable, safe, and secure with a large outdoor space to relax and a restaurant with quality food. Wifi and breakfast are included. After learning the Lakeview Hotel was fully booked, we ended up here and although a little more expensive it was a great stay! A standard room will cost you GHC 565, approximately USD 35.

Kamara Lakeview Hotel: This is a newer hotel in Wa and isn’t fully completed yet, but the staff was very accommodating in referring us to Dellagio. The rooms are clean and comfortable, especially for GHC 394 per night, around USD 25.

Both of these hotels are located about 1 hour drive from the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary.

At the sanctuary itself, a few options exist. For an authentic experience, consider staying overnight in a traditional homestay with a local family, which typically costs GHS 80–100 (USD 8–10) per night, or camp at the Hippo Hide and listen to the grunting at night as the animals make their way to land to feed. A basic guesthouse also exists near the riverside, with basic rooms starting at around GHC 100 per person, per night.

Local canoes sit on the bank of the Black Volta River on the Burkina Faso side of the border

The banks of the Black Volta River, shot from Ghana and looking into Burkina Faso

WHAT TO EXPECT AT WECHIAU HIPPO SANCTUARY

One of the sanctuary's main draws is the boat trip on the Black Volta River, where you can observe hippos in their natural habitat. Unlike typical wildlife safaris, this offers a more intimate and peaceful encounter with these majestic creatures. The best time to spot hippos is in the early morning or late afternoon, as they tend to retreat to the water to stay cool during the hottest part of the day. As on any safari experience, there’s never a guarantee to see the hippos. This is especially true during rainy season when the water level rises.

It’s important to note that there are multiple entry points onto the Black Volta, and the guides will take you to where they feel you have the highest chance of viewing hippos. Fortunately for us, the conservation team had just completed a census the day prior.

We drove my rusty Honda Pilot through small villages and dense brush before reaching the riverbank where a dugout canoe awaited. After donning our life vests we pushed away and were swiftly carried downstream by the strong current, immediately spotting a lone hippo in the distance.

After another few minutes of floating, we anchored to the tree branches as we flanked a bloat of hippos in the middle of the river. We had spoken to someone who had visited a week prior and after a few hours in a canoe they weren’t able to see any animals so needless to say this was unexpected. But there we were, fighting the current of the Black Volta, staring across the river into Burkina Faso, and viewing hippos in their natural habitat all the while one guide kept us steady and the other emptied water from the wooden floor.

It’s not always the most comfortable feeling being in canoe on a flooded river with one of the world’s most dangerous animals — we even had a rogue hippo leave the group and inch towards our spot, diving underwater and resurfacing closer than before — but our guides assured us that humans have never been attacked since the conservation area was established.

Besides hippo watching, the sanctuary is home to diverse bird species and other wildlife, including monitor lizards, crocodiles, and baboons. Nature walks with local guides allow you to explore the unique flora and fauna of the region, and for those interested in cultural experiences, visiting surrounding communities offers insight into the local way of life. The area is also known for its shea butter production.

Hippos spotted from canoe on the Black Volta River in Ghana

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

While in the Upper West Region, consider extending your adventure by visiting some of the nearby attractions:

  • Wa Naa’s Palace – Located in Wa, this historic palace is the seat of the Wa Naa, the traditional ruler of the region. It’s an excellent spot to learn about the local culture and history. Note that the palace is still in use today so be sure to check in at the appropriate entrance.

  • Gbelle Game Reserve – Roughly 60 kilometers from Wa, this lesser-known game reserve is home to elephants, antelope, and various bird species. With that said, we dug through research to find more on this place and ultimately decided to pass on our drive north. No one in the area could tell us reliable information and there was no indication of the reserve on our route. We’ll definitely be going back to do more investigation. Hopefully you have better luck!

  • Gwolu Bone Setting Clinic - A little over 3 hours away from Wechiau is the unofficial border town of Gwolu. Here, one of the most frequented and last remaining traditional bone setting clinics is situated. This unassuming building draws in people from all over the north and even a few kilometers away from neighboring Burkina Faso in search of traditional treatment for fractures.

An aerial shot of a bloat of hippos at the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana

An aerial view of a bloat of hippos

The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is one of Ghana’s best-kept secrets, partially because it’s not the most accessible. If you’re willing to commit to the adventure, you’ll be spoiled by wildlife, culture, and stories to share. When planning a trip to Ghana, this is a “can’t miss” opportunity to discover a different side of the country’s natural wonders, and maybe even a quick trip across the river to unofficially reach Burkina Faso!

This is certainly and experience I won’t be forgetting anytime soon and is one of the most unique things I’ve been fortunate enough to do during my time in Ghana. It’s well worth the effort to reach there. So, what are you waiting for?

 


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