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Top 10 things to see and do in Accra, Ghana

From historical monuments to bustling markets, Ghana's capital city of Accra has plenty of diverse experiences to offer. Here 10 of the top things to see and do... enjoy the adventure!

Independence Arch - Accra, Ghana

Please note: This post has been updated as of December 2023

Approximately the size of Texas, Ghana encompasses an arid climate up north, rainforests in the south, sunny beaches, diverse religions, rich culture, and more than 250 dialects.

So, how can one possibly get a beat on all that this West African nation has to offer? Start with Accra; the place where it all melds together in joyful harmony.

Here are 10 of the top things to see and do in Accra, Ghana!

1. LOSE YOURSELF IN ALLEYS OF MAKOLA MARKET

Largely considered as the economic heart of Accra, Makola Market can be overwhelming to first-time visitors, and for good reason. 

There is no official welcome sign or arrows that guide visitors to the various subsections, rather the city’s streets quickly transition from flowing traffic to full of pedestrians and goods. Rest assured anything you might need can be found: a toothbrush, sunglasses, veggies, smoked fish, soap, second-hand clothing, and even toys and souvenirs.

Personally, my favorite thing to do here is to track down a bofrot vendor, Ghana’s version of a donut, and munch on the delicious snack as I wander through the streets in search of something new.

It’s important to remember that although Ghana is commonly referred to as “Africa for beginners” crime still exists, especially within such a high density of people. Be sure to keep your belongings close to avoid pickpockets and keep in mind that all legitimate business is done out in the open. There’s no need to wander into back alleys or enclosed spaces.

Finally, enjoy it.

It can certainly be a bit overwhelming to first-time visitors, but don’t let that deter you but don’t let that keep you way. Rather, use Makola Market as a sort of “right of passage” to truly experience the local life in Accra. It’s something that everyone should experience at least once, even if just for a moment.

Don’t forget to negotiate your purchases - that’s half the fun!

A small section of the bustling Makola Market in the heart of Accra, Ghana

A small section of the bustling Makola Market in the heart of Accra, Ghana

2. STROLL THROUGH THE KWAME NKRUMAH MEMORIAL PARK

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park was dedicated to the first Prime Minister of Ghana in 1992 and is located on the site of the former British polo grounds. This is the exact spot where Dr. Nkrumah once stood to declare Ghana’s independence from British rule before uttering his famous line: “Ghana is free forever”.

A mausoleum is located within the park’s walls and holds the remains of Dr. Nkrumah and his wife, Fathia. To the naked eye, the exterior seems an odd architectural design, but to the people of Ghana, it was built to resemble an upside-down sword, the Akan symbol of peace.

In total, the park covers 5.3-acres and also encompasses a museum which houses photographs, letters, and more from Dr. Nkrumah’s storied life.

It’s easy to spend a couple of hours here, soaking up the palpable history of the long and grueling fight for freedom. A powerful experience, to say the least, and one of the most important sites for first-time visitors to Accra!

3. PAY A VISIT TO BLACK STAR SQUARE

Black Star Square is a massive open-air arena of sorts in the heart of Accra that accommodates 30,000 people. It now hosts all of Ghana’s national parades and holiday gatherings, most notably the Independence Day celebrations held on March 6th each year. 

This architectural giant was originally commissioned by Ghana’s first Prime Minister and President, Kwame Nkrumah, to honor the visit of Queen Elizabeth II in 1961.

The expansive area includes Independence Arch on the southern end of the square with the Gulf of Guinea as a backdrop while the Memorial of the Unknown Soldier stands opposite to the north, honoring all of the fallen souls during Ghana’s fight for independence.

By day the square is empty, showing off its sheer size to all who visit. There is no entry to fee walk around and photographs are generally permitted, however keep an eye for guards standing around any of the specific monuments, most frequently Independence Arch. At that point it’s best to exercise your travel photography etiquette and ask before taking a close-up photo.

A visit to Black Star Square certainly won’t take long, but it’s a convenient stop that’s located near several other points of interest, including Black Star Gate and Accra Sports Stadium.

An empty Black Star Square looking towards

An empty Black Star Square looking towards

4. CLIMB TO THE TOP OF BLACK STAR GATE

Technically part of the Black Star Square complex and sometimes referred to as Independence Arch, this stunning gate stands alone in the middle of a roundabout on the 28th of February Rd. (named out of respect for the 1948 riots) and is impossible to miss.

Lined with beautifully planted gardens, the Black Star Gate represents the struggle for Ghana’s independence. The star at the top, not unlike the one that can be found at the center of the country’s flag, dons the top of the structure on all four sides and symbolizes African emancipation.

The other colors of the flag, red, yellow and green, represent the blood of those who died for independence, mineral wealth, and Ghana’s rich forests and natural resources, respectively.

Be sure to climb to the top of the Black Star Gate and take advantage of the spectacular city views across Accra. This is a great photo op for an aerial perspective over the massive Black Star Square, Accra Sports Stadium, and Osu Castle.

Although it’s free to do, I’d recommend tipping the guide that escorts you up.

Black Star Gate in downtown Accra, Ghana

Black Star Gate in downtown Accra, Ghana

5. GO BACK IN TIME AT OSU CASTLE

Once referred to as Christiansborg, Osu Castle is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and stands on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, serving as a constant reminder to Ghana’s gut-wrenching past.

Over the years, control of the castle changed hands between the Danes, Norwegians, Portuguese, and British and even served as the seat of the Ghanaian government in the post-slavery era up until it was moved to its current location at the Jubilee House in 2013.

Today, the castle offers visitors the chance to wander the halls British officials once walked and explore the harsh conditions of the slave dungeons.

The most meaningful experience, however, is the solemn “Door of No Return,” ominously named to symbolize the final time that those held captive would step foot on their native soil before boarding a ship bound for the New World.

It’s worth a visit, especially if you don’t have the time to travel to Cape Coast’s castles. Keep in mind that Osu Castle remains within a security zone and, as a result, is only open to the public on Fridays between the hours of 9:00 am and 4:00 pm.

6. WATCH A SOCCER MATCH AT ACCRA SPORTS STADIUM

The Accra Sports Stadium is a 39,800 seat facility that’s mostly used as the home venue for the Hearts of Oak and Accra Great Olympics F.C. soccer teams of the Ghana Premier League.

Although an upbeat atmosphere accompanies match day, it doesn’t come without its fair dose of unfortunate history.

In 2001, it was the site of the worst stadium disaster in all of Africa that claimed the lives of 126 fans. On that fateful day, Hearts of Oak was playing in a match against Asante Kotoko and trailed 1-0 until two quick goals changed their fortune.

Disappointed Kotoko fans responded by throwing plastic bottles on the pitch before law enforcement retaliated with tear gas. Due to the stadium’s poor design, fans bottlenecked at the limited exits and 116 supporters died of compressive asphyxia while another 10 passed away from trauma.

Today, a bronze statue of a fan carrying another fan to safety stands proudly outside of Accra Sports Stadium and reads “I am my brother’s keeper.”

Attending a professional match here remains one of my all time favorite experiences in Accra. In all honesty, I don’t remember how the game unfolded. We were too busy singing, dancing, and blowing vuvuzelas in the rain with the diehard supporters.

Accra Sports Stadium and home of Hearts of Oak, the most successful club soccer team in Ghana

Accra Sports Stadium and home of Hearts of Oak, the most successful club soccer team in Ghana

7. JAMESTOWN LIGHTHOUSE

The 92 ft tall Jamestown Lighthouse was built in the 1930s and stands as an iconic staple of the Jamestown neighborhood, which was once a major settlement of Europeans during the slave trade.

Although no longer operational, it’s still possible to climb to the top and take in the fresh air the blows in off the Gulf of Guinea while overlooking the fishing village, historic Fort James, and surrounding Accra.

Pay close attention to where slabs of cement jut out into the ocean. That’s where slaves once walked en route to ships bound for the New World.

The lighthouse is kept under lock and key by local volunteers. They represent a non-profit organization that works in the area and although the building is technically free to visit, it is expected that you provide a donation for their willingness to guide a short tour.

They may try to encourage you to visit Fort James and the fishing village as well, but it’s okay to say no. Simply donate a comfortable amount (5 GHC per person usually suffices) and continue on your way!

Jamestown Lighthouse standing tall in Accra, Ghana

Jamestown Lighthouse standing tall in Accra, Ghana

8. KICK BACK AND RELAX AT LABADI BEACH

Adored by locals and foreigners alike and commonly referred to as “La Pleasure", Labadi Beach is a scenic stretch of sand in the Labadi neighborhood of Accra.

Visit during the day and enjoy the views as you sip on a local beer while waiting for your fresh fish at one of the various stalls before wading into the waves. Grilled tilapia, spicy kebabs, and jollof rice are just a few of the dishes available.

Once the sun goes down, the music turns up and the party begins! It’s not uncommon to find reggae artists, disco DJs, and other live bands blasting a cacophony of sounds late into the night.

As you might imagine, a large part of Accra turns up on the weekends, so for a more relaxing experience, it’s best to visit during the weekday. Either way, the small entrance fee (around 20 GHC) is worth the price!

9. SHOP ‘TIL YOU DROP AT THE CENTER FOR NATIONAL CULTURE

Although the Center for National Culture may sound like a museum of sorts, it’s actually a souvenir mecca. From wood carvings to backpacks made with the traditional kente cloth, jewelry, gorgeous canvas paintings, and even musical instruments, these vendors have it all - and they’re not afraid to tell you about it!

Don’t be surprised to find yourself surrounded by new “friends” the moment you step out of the taxi, eagerly ushering you to their respective shops. Stand your ground, tell them you’ll stop by later, and stick to your plan.

Right away you’ll notice that the market is inundated with lookalike items, which quickly explains everyone’s urgency to sell their version. My best advice is to take a lap: slow enough to get eyes on what’s available, but quick enough to avoid any aggressive selling strategies.

Another useful tactic is to use your instincts and make a friend. Spend some time talking, build trust, and ask for advice as to how much the items around the market that peaked your interest should cost. It makes the ensuing negotiations much easier!

An artisan delicately carves a bowl at the Center for National Culture in Accra, Ghana

An artisan delicately carves a bowl at the Center for National Culture in Accra, Ghana

10. HEIGHTEN YOUR SENSES AT THE ARTISTS ALLIANCE GALLERY

Three stories of unique artwork and crafts fill the halls of an old tower that overlooks the Gulf of Guinea.

The Artists Alliance Gallery was first established by the famous artist, Ablade Glover, and has since grown to include the work of both well-known but also up and coming artists of Ghana.

From woven kente cloth pieces to vibrant canvas paintings, a wide array of eye-catching visuals are available to peruse as well as purchase.

Pay special attention to the exorbitantly carved coffins in the shape of crabs or a pair of Nike shoes. In Ghana, it’s popular in to bury a loved one in something that represents their being - whether depicting a favorite item or former occupation.

Admission is free and it makes for a great afternoon of embracing the vibrant and artistic culture of Ghana!

 

So, there you have it. It’s time to get out and explore Accra, Ghana!

What interests you most on this top 10 list? Is there something I’ve missed? Let me know in the comments below!

As always, stay safe & happy travels.


Don’t want to wander? Check out these tour options!


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3 must-do day trips to take from Accra, Ghana

Ghana's capital city certainly has plenty to offer as is, but don't overlook the country's rich culture, natural beauty, and storied past. Here are 3 must-do day trips to take the next time you find yourself in Accra!

Kakum National Park, Ghana

Please note: This post has been updated as of December 2023

A city of over 1.5 million people, Ghana’s capital of Accra certainly has plenty to do as is, but don’t let that stop you from seeing more! Step outside of the hustle and bustle to unlock the natural beauty, rich culture, and storied past of this West African nation.

Here are 3 must-do day trips to take the next time you find yourself visiting Accra, Ghana!



KAKUM NATIONAL PARK

Located 170km from Accra along Ghana’s southern coast, Kakum National Park is home to 360 square-kilometers of the country’s rapidly receding rainforest and protects several endangered species such as the forest elephant, bongo antelope and more.

The park itself was established in 1992 and has since seen steady growth. Ghanaians and foreigners alike come from all around to hike through the butterfly-rich forest, birdwatch along the SunBird Trail and, most frequently, experience the famed canopy walkway (one of three on the African continent).

Suspended 30m above the forest floor, the 7 suspended bridges span a length of over 330m, zig-zagging between the trees along the way. It’s certainly not for the faint of heart as the precariously placed single planks of wood that separate you from plummeting to the ground seem suspiciously unstable, but rest assured it’s perfectly safe.

However you decide to experience Kakum National Park, trained guides are available every step of the way to help spot wildlife, discuss the environmental and economic impact of the area, as well as explain local medicinal purposes of the flora and fauna.

Once exhausted from a day of exploration, the visitors area at the main entrance offers a relaxing atmosphere amongst educational exhibits and the Rainforest Cafe, a place to rest your weary legs and enjoy a refreshing beverage. The cafe sources fresh produce and ingredients from the surrounding communities, so a meal here not only supports the national park but local farmers as well.

Not ready to leave? Kakum National Park offers several overnight accommodations from the primitive Afrafranto Campground (equipment not included) to the comfortable onsite Rainforest Lodge, but for a unique experience book a night in the canopy treehouse and fall asleep to the sounds of the surrounding forest.

Walking along the swinging bridges of Kakum National Park in Ghana

Walking along the swinging bridges of Kakum National Park in Ghana

Associated Fees

  • Standard entrance fee: 2 GHC per person

  • Canopy Walkway: 60 GHC for non-Ghanaian adult (not including tips)

  • Guided Hike (1 hour): 50 GHC for non-Ghanaian adult (not including tips)

  • Cost fluctuates based on nationality and age, as well as inflation. For a full breakdown, visit the official website

Hours of Operation

  • The park gate is open daily from 8 am - 4 pm

  • If using park accommodation, arrangements can be made to arrive earlier/later as needed

Getting There

  • Hop on a shared tro-tro from Kaneshie Station in Accra. Once in Cape Coast, hire a taxi the rest of the way

  • VIP Bus from Accra to Cape Coast before hiring a taxi

  • Arriving via rental car is possible as the drive is fairly straight-forward. Be cautious and consider hiring a private driver as traffic in Accra can be overwhelming and be prepared for tolls and police stops along the way

Kakum National Park in Ghana

Kakum National Park in Ghana

MARANATHA BEACH CAMP

Welcome to Maranatha Beach Camp, where the Volta River meets the Gulf of Guinea.

A short 2.5-hour drive east of Accra will land travelers in the small fishing town of Ada-Foah. Ask around enough and someone will inevitably be able to point you in the direction of the beach camp, located at the edge of town along a picturesque strip of sand that’s dotted with palm trees and thatched huts.

It’s one of the best places to kick back in a hammock and enjoy a cold beer, only breaking the cycle to cool off in the river. By day, time seemingly stands still but at night, the camp transforms into a local hangout with blaring music and a full dance floor.

The Maranatha Beach Camp was first established by a man named Winifred who saw a need for education within his community. By founding the guest house, he began using the profits to establish a nursery school on the beach. What was once an open-air shelter has since blossomed into a Government-supported and fully-enclosed school and to this day, profits from the beach camp continue to directly benefit the community. Upon arrival, you may be offered a tour of the community. Don’t shy away; it’s great to see where the money is going!

Looking to explore more of the area? The staff at Maranatha are well-connected and are more than happy to arrange a local fisherman to get you more acquainted with Volta Estuary. During one of my visits, we stopped at a local crocodile farm — something I never expected to find on an island in the middle of the river!

Maranatha Beach Camp from the water

Maranatha Beach Camp from the water

Getting There:

  • The first step is to hop in a tro-tro from Accra to Ada-Foah (2.5hrs, but plan for longer), then there are two options:

    • Option 1: Find a motorbike willing to take you from Ada-Foah to Maranatha (ask around and don’t be afraid to negotiate the price)

    • Option 2: Give the beach camp a call and they will send a boat to meet you. Price is typically 30GHC per person for a one-way trip

  • If travel via tro-tro isn’t in your repertoire, then consider hiring a reliable taxi cab for the day to take you to/from Ada-Foah

Tips & Tricks:

  • The camp is a cash-only establishment and there is no way to get more. It’s important to plan ahead and overestimate what you’ll need. During one of my trips I had to ask the tro-tro to stop at an ATM on the way back to Accra so that I would be able to pay them because I had run out of money

  • The restaurant serves great food, but it may be difficult to find something that fits within a vegan diet, so come prepared with snacks if you’re staying for the day. Similar to the lack of ATMs, there are also no stores in the area

Contact Info: 

Sunset above the Maranatha Beach Camp

Sunset above the Maranatha Beach Camp

CAPE COAST CASTLE

A visit to Cape Coast Castle certainly isn’t an experience that will leave you feeling happy and fulfilled, but it’s an important place to visit firsthand and will shed a heart-wrenching light on all that the Ghanaian people have been through.

This particular castle is just one of forty slave forts that were built along the Gold Coast of West Africa by European traders and, since being acquired by the Ghana Museums and Monuments Board, is widely touted as one the most restored and best maintained. It’s possible to visit Fort James back in Accra, but the prison is held under lock and key by the locals and is a far less informative experience.

At Cape Coast Castle, there is an eye-opening museum and guests have the chance to take a somber tour around the grounds. Step inside the damp dungeons underground that once housed up to 1,000 males and 500 females in separate rooms and feel a shiver down your spine as the tour guide slowly closes the door and total darkness descends upon the room. It’s an out-of-body-experience I’ll never soon forget.

As if stepping foot inside the dungeons isn’t heavy enough, the tour culminates by leading visitors through the “Door of No Return.” The exact hole in the fort’s exterior in which slaves once marched through before boarding ships bound for the New World. For the estimated 15% of the 12 million slaves thought to have died at sea, this door not only embodies their final steps on their homeland but also on this Earth.

It’s an emotional experience to be a part of, but I promise that you will have a much deeper connection to the people and culture of Ghana. It’s important to confront the terrible past to truly understand how far things have come. Some of the most positive and resilient people I’ve ever met have been during my travels through this beautiful West African nation.

Inside the Cape Coast Castle, looking towards the path that leads to the “Door of No Return”

Inside Elmina Castle, looking towards the path that leads to the “Door of No Return”

Associated Fees:

  • 40 GHC for adult foreigners which includes entry into the museum and a guided tour

Hours of Operation:

  • Open daily from 9 am-5 pm

Getting There:

  • Take a local tro-tro to Cape Coast before flagging down a taxi to drive the rest of the way. Expect a 3-4 hour trip if using local transportation

  • Hire a private car or taxi for the day to make the 127km trip from Accra

Relics of the former life of Cape Coast Castle are now on display for visitors

Relics of the former life of Cape Coast Castle are now on display for visitors

Wherever you go in Ghana and whatever you do, just remember that there is so much more to the country than what Accra has to offer! Travel farther, expand your mind, and experience something new.

Have you been to Ghana before? What were some of your favorite parts? Let me know in the comments below!


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Embracing Adversity Through Travel: How a trip to Ghana changed my outlook on life

Through all of my adventures over the years I've learned plenty of lessons. One that has stuck with me is just how much travel has changed the way I think and embrace challenges on a day-to-day basis. Here's a story about a trip to Ghana that tested my patience, but proved important to my growth.

Embracing adversity through travel | Toone's Travels

Traveling isn’t always comfortable, in fact, it’s the moments in which I feel too comfortable that I begin to question what I’m doing.

Why is that? Why do I actively seek to put myself in those challenging situations?

For as much thought as I've put towards solving this internal conundrum, I still don't have an answer.

With that being said, one thing I have come to learn throughout all of my adventures is that when it feels as though the universe is relentlessly breaking me down, it may actually be working to build me up.

It’s certainly a not foolproof theory, but more times than not it seems to be the case.

As I reflect back on the countless times I’ve faced this lesson over the years, one particular experience comes to mind.

Here’s a short story about a trip to Ghana that was full of mishaps and close calls, but ultimately forced me to embrace the adversity and ultimately feel an overwhelming sense of gratitude. Enjoy!


Located just outside of the historical city of Cape Coast lies Kakum. A national park of Ghana that encompasses nearly 150 square miles of protected forest, the famed canopy walkway offers visitors the chance to meander through the treetops across a series of swinging bridges.

It was only natural that when two new volunteers, Heather and Courtney, came to Ghana to help with The Senase Project for the first time, a visit to Kakum National Park was at the top of our to-do list… but we almost didn’t make it.

The morning started off like any other: a casual breakfast of eggs and white bread accompanied by a warm cup of Milo, Yoo-hoo chocolate milk’s Ghanaian sibling, before packing up and heading out.

After a quick taxi ride through the bustling streets of Accra, the three of us were dropped off on the side of the highway at Kaneshie Station. This is where we’d find a tro-tro to take us to Cape Coast.

If you’re not familiar with the various modes of transportation in Ghana, tro-tros are essentially private vans that operate as shared taxis, traveling fixed routes between towns and all around the major cities.

Some are in good shape while others you can’t help but look at and question the number of remaining trips before the wheels inevitably fall off.

Once obtaining a ticket, it’s best to send up a quick prayer and hope for a window seat so the breeze can relieve the inevitable sauna-like environment that comes with passengers squeezing together, some sharing seats or commandeering laps.

It might sound miserable to those who haven’t experienced one, but it makes me smile just thinking about it.

Tro-tro packed to the brim in Accra, Ghana

Tro-tro packed to the brim in Accra, Ghana

The station itself was filled with a cacophony of sounds and a confusing aroma, somewhere along the spectrum of sewage and lukewarm seafood.

Hawkers worked the pathways, trying their best to sell dried fish and bofrot, Ghana’s version of a donut, while young teenagers shouted destinations from the open windows of the vans.

It seemed as though we might struggle to find our way amidst the madness, but luckily there’s an important caveat that accompanies this mode of travel: the drivers won’t depart until all of the seats are full.

So, when a group of wide-eyed and clueless foreigners roll up, someone will inevitably ask for a destination and provide a personal escort to their friend’s van.

After what felt like an hour of waiting around, the driver and his team had sold enough tickets. The three of us piled into the back seat, carefully ducking under the exposed metal of the ceiling as we shuffled over the bags of produce that filled the aisle.

Off we went.


Interested in learning about how I first caught the travel bug? Check out this post:


The drive between Accra and Cape Coast typically takes less than 3 hours and although we had lost some time waiting for the tro-tro to fill up with passengers, we were still optimistic for the day ahead. After all, we were cruising the open road and catching views of the Gulf of Guinea as we went… nothing could bring us down!

That is until we arrived at a police barricade.

These checkpoints are a routine part of life in Ghana; simply a way for the police to patrol traffic. The driver rolled down the window and sheepishly handed over the required documents.

The officers paused and looked at one another, took a second glance at the provided papers, and then began to speak.

It was clear that something was off.

Our once vivacious driver appeared to curl up like a puppy, tail between his legs and all. We continued to sit in silence until a fellow passenger turned around and informed us that the driver has been caught using a fraudulent license.

“Well, that’s a new one,” I thought to myself.

I was eager to see how this was going to play out. Would the driver be arrested? Would the vehicle be seized? Would all of us be left stranded on the side of the road? My imagination was running wild.

No, none of that happened. Simply a slap on the wrist, an order to obtain a legitimate license, and a modest bribe.

Back to the open road, we went, laughing it off as a story to tell our friends and unaware that it was just the beginning of what the day had in store.

All of a sudden we heard a massive “pop” immediately followed by the sound of metal dragging along the asphalt.

The three of us simultaneously lifted our feet out of sheer confusion and panic, unsure of if the floor was giving way. It wouldn’t have been the first time a tro-tro had bottomed out and been stripped to the bones.

Thankfully it wasn’t the floor, but the noise crescendoed to a point of no return and the driver was forced to gently guide the van to the side of the road, thankfully finding what appeared to be a makeshift garage along the way.

One by one we all exited, our fellow passengers seemingly annoyed but ultimately unsurprised by this turn of events.

The driver, with the help of his friends, rolled the van onto a set of cinder blocks and disappeared for a moment before resurfacing with a busted muffler. I’m no car expert by any means, but it surely seemed un-reparable.

I couldn’t believe our luck. It felt as though that was the end of the line for us, our day foiled by a piece of fraudulent paper and faulty van. As disappointing as that was to accept, we couldn’t help but chuckle.

There we stood, huddled together under a metal awning on the side of the road in Ghana, completely at the mercy of the universe.

Stranded in Ghana

Stranded in Ghana

Without missing a beat, the driver obtained a hammer, a blowtorch, and went to work.

The sound was deafening as he gave it his all, strategically heating the muffler and using the hammer to approximate the edges before welding it back together.

Over an hour later he was done, had re-attached it to the van, and was eagerly encouraging everyone to pile back in. We obliged, silently questioning the integrity of the muffler that had been given a new lease on life.

It couldn’t have been more than ten minutes of driving before we heard another “pop” and a sense of defeat quickly replaced the panic and confusion we had felt the first time.

The driver frantically pulled out his phone, sensing the looming mutiny from his customers if he attempted to fix the muffler again. “Ok, wait here. Another person will come to pick you up,” he said. Sure enough, a white van appeared.

After a brief deliberation as to whether or not we should call it quits and retreat back to Accra, we collectively decided to press on. What else could possibly happen?

Much to our relief, we finally reached Cape Coast and on top of that, we were all still in one piece!

The sense of accomplishment was quickly forgotten as we approached the taxi stand and asked for a ride to Kakum National Park.

“Are you sure? It’s nearly closing time,” a driver replied.

We glanced down at our watches and, to our disbelief, it was nearly 3:00 pm. With the park closing at 4:00 pm, it seemed as though all hope was lost.

Sensing our disappointment, the driver opened his door.

“Go ahead, get in. I will try my best” he exclaimed.

The road from Cape Coast to Kakum is technically paved, but I use that term loosely as the concentration of potholes is more than anywhere else I’ve been in the world. Hence our unofficial petition to name it Pothole Alley.

Up, down, left, right. The driver clearly had years of experience navigating this route as he seamlessly zig-zagged his way forward, shaving off minutes with each kilometer traveled. We tried to remain positive, but that’s always easier said than done.

Our hearts sank as we pulled into the entrance of the park. A truck full of guards was on its way out and that meant they had closed for the day. It seemed as though all the trouble we had endured was for nothing.

Without a second thought, our taxi driver rolled down his window and began pleading our case. We sat there silently crossing our fingers. A guard then hopped out of the bed of the truck and squeezed into the backseat with Heather and Courtney. He was willing to reopen the canopy walk for an extra fee and subsequently restored our faith by doing so!

The three of us silently hiked through the forest, eagerly listening to our guide identify various species of flowers and trees along the way. Once at the top, we carefully stepped out onto the first bridge, a single plank of wood suspended 30m above the ground.

Kakum National Park, Ghana

Kakum National Park, Ghana

It was beautifully silent as we made our way across and I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the journey that had brought us there.

Despite the frustrations, if we hadn’t been shuttled to that specific tro-tro, with that particular driver, on that precise morning, we would not have been there in that moment, soaking up the serenity.

The sun began to set and it was time to go.

We made our way back down the trail, gleefully smiling in disbelief and appreciation as to how quickly our luck had turned around. Somehow we had secured a private hike through one of the most popular tourist spots in all of Ghana, a feat that I’m unlikely to ever experience again.

So, what’s the lesson here?

It’s not that we should avoid traveling via tro-tros at all costs, nor is it that we should roll over at the first sign of trouble. There’s something bigger at play here and when I find the words to express it, I’ll be sure to let you know.

In the meantime, I’ll leave you with this: Don’t shy away from the frustrations of traveling.

Instead, as hard as it may seem, challenge yourself to embrace them. After all, you never know what the universe has in store.

The beautiful feeling of complete fulfillment amidst intense exhaustion is the reason why I travel. It helps me grow, it stimulates learning, and it’s why I’ll always advocate for others to get out and experience the world as well.



Thanks for following along! Have any lessons you’ve learned abroad of your own ? Feel free to share in the comments below!

As always, stay safe & happy travels.


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