Exploring the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary in Ghana: Everything you need to know before you go
Note: All information below is updated as of September 2024
Tucked away in the remote Upper West Region of Ghana, the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary offers visitors an extraordinary experience combining wildlife, culture, and scenic beauty. For nature lovers and adventure seekers alike, this off-the-beaten-path destination is a must-see during your trip to Ghana. Here’s everything you need to know before you go.
BACKGROUND
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is a community-run conservation project, created to protect one of the last remaining populations of hippos in Ghana. Established in 1999 in partnership with the Calgary Zoo, the sanctuary spans a 40-kilometer stretch along the Black Volta River, which forms part of the border between Ghana and Burkina Faso. Not only does it protect hippos, but it also preserves the surrounding savannah, woodland, and riverine ecosystems, while promoting sustainable tourism that benefits local communities.
Black Volta River from above
HOW TO GET THERE
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is located about 85 kilometers from Wa, the capital of the Upper West Region. Visitors traveling from Accra or other major cities in Ghana can fly into Wa Airport, with a connecting domestic flight from Kotoka International Airport. Passion Air is the only domestic airline to run the route and has only one daily flight except for Tuesdays and Saturdays. Tickets will cost you between USD 150-250. It’s important to note that Ghana’s domestic flights aren’t immune to last-minute delays or cancelations but Passion Air is reputable for following through on rebooking and refunds.
Once in Wa, you can take a bus, shared taxi, or hire a private car to reach the sanctuary. The road from Wa to Wechiau is generally in good condition, but is not paved the entire way turning off the main road it will be dirt the rest of the way. The drive is approximately 45min - 1 hour from Wa to the sanctuary reception. Once finished there, it’s another 45min drive through farming paths, heavy brush, and washed out “roads” to the riverbank.
If you find yourself on a whirlwind of a roadtrip through Northern Ghana like we were, then your best bet is to reach Wa from Tamale. This 4.5 hour drive is mostly on paved roads and takes you around the outer rim of Mole National Park, making it an easy trip to pair with the elephant safari and Larabanga Ancient Mosque if you have a few days.
A bloat of hippos spotted on the river
COST OF VISITING THE SANCTUARY
The entrance fee for the sanctuary is relatively affordable, and it directly supports the conservation efforts and local community. As of 2024, prices for non-residents hover around GHS 30–50 (approx. USD 3–5), while Ghanaian citizens may pay a reduced rate. Additionally, guided tours of the sanctuary are available, costing around GHS 100–150 (USD 10–15) per group (this includes guide and boat fee).
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WHERE TO STAY
Most accommodation options are in Wa. Two to consider are:
Dellagio Hotel - A welcomed site after a long couple days of driving. This hotel is comfortable, safe, and secure with a large outdoor space to relax and a restaurant with quality food. Wifi and breakfast are included. After learning the Lakeview Hotel was fully booked, we ended up here and although a little more expensive it was a great stay! A standard room will cost you GHC 565, approximately USD 35.
Kamara Lakeview Hotel - This is a newer hotel in Wa and isn’t fully completed yet, but the staff was very accommodating in referring us to Dellagio. The rooms are clean and comfortable, especially for GHC 394 per night, around USD 25.
Both of these hotels are located about 1 hour drive from the Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary.
At the sanctuary itself, a few options exist. For an authentic experience, consider staying overnight in a traditional homestay with a local family, which typically costs GHS 80–100 (USD 8–10) per night, or camp at the Hippo Hide and listen to the grunting at night as the animals make their way to land to feed. A basic guesthouse also exists near the riverside, with basic rooms starting at around GHC 100 per person, per night.
The banks of the Black Volta River, shot from Ghana and looking into Burkina Faso
WHAT TO EXPECT
One of the sanctuary's main draws is the boat trip on the Black Volta River, where you can observe hippos in their natural habitat. Unlike typical wildlife safaris, this offers a more intimate and peaceful encounter with these majestic creatures. The best time to spot hippos is in the early morning or late afternoon, as they tend to retreat to the water to stay cool during the hottest part of the day. As on any safari experience, there’s never a guarantee to see the hippos. This is especially true during rainy season when the water level rises.
It’s important to note that there are multiple entry points onto the Black Volta, and the guides will take you to where they feel you have the highest chance of viewing hippos. Fortunately for us, the conservation team had just completed a census the day prior.
We drove my rusty Honda Pilot through small villages and dense brush before reaching the riverbank where a dugout canoe awaited. After donning our life vests we pushed away and were swiftly carried downstream by the strong current, immediately spotting a lone hippo in the distance.
After another few minutes of floating, we anchored to the tree branches as we flanked a bloat of hippos in the middle of the river. We had spoken to someone who had visited a week prior and after a few hours in a canoe they weren’t able to see any animals so needless to say this was unexpected. But there we were, fighting the current of the Black Volta, staring across the river into Burkina Faso, and viewing hippos in their natural habitat all the while one guide kept us steady and the other emptied water from the wooden floor.
It’s not always the most comfortable feeling being in canoe on a flooded river with one of the world’s most dangerous animals — we even had a rogue hippo leave the group and inch towards our spot, diving underwater and resurfacing closer than before — but our guides assured us that humans have never been attacked since the conservation area was established.
Besides hippo watching, the sanctuary is home to diverse bird species and other wildlife, including monitor lizards, crocodiles, and baboons. Nature walks with local guides allow you to explore the unique flora and fauna of the region, and for those interested in cultural experiences, visiting surrounding communities offers insight into the local way of life. The area is also known for its shea butter production.
Hippos spotted from canoe on the Black Volta River in Ghana
NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
While in the Upper West Region, consider extending your adventure by visiting some of the nearby attractions:
Wa Naa’s Palace – Located in Wa, this historic palace is the seat of the Wa Naa, the traditional ruler of the region. It’s an excellent spot to learn about the local culture and history. Note that the palace is still in use today so be sure to check in at the appropriate entrance.
Gbelle Game Reserve – Roughly 60 kilometers from Wa, this lesser-known game reserve is home to elephants, antelope, and various bird species. With that said, we dug through research to find more on this place and ultimately decided to pass on our drive north. No one in the area could tell us reliable information and there was no indication of the reserve on our route. We’ll definitely be going back to do more investigation. Hopefully you have better luck!
Gwolu Bone Setting Clinic - A little over 3 hours away from Wechiau is the unofficial border town of Gwolu. Here, one of the most frequented and last remaining traditional bone setting clinics is situated. This unassuming building draws in people from all over the north and even a few kilometers away from neighboring Burkina Faso in search of traditional treatment for fractures.
An aerial view of a bloat of hippos
The Wechiau Hippo Sanctuary is one of Ghana’s best-kept secrets, partially because it’s not the most accessible. If you’re willing to commit to the adventure, you’ll be spoiled by wildlife, culture, and stories to share. When planning a trip to Ghana, this is a “can’t miss” opportunity to discover a different side of the country’s natural wonders, and maybe even a quick trip across the river to unofficially reach Burkina Faso!
This is certainly and experience I won’t be forgetting anytime soon and is one of the most unique things I’ve been fortunate enough to do during my time in Ghana. It’s well worth the effort to reach there. So, what are you waiting for?