Please note: all info below is accurate as of January 2023

Having been to Ghana on and off for the past decade, my trips were isolated to the same stretch of road between Accra, Kumasi, and Berekum leaving the Eastern Region of the country an untouched landscape full of adventure.

Within a week of regularly driving the Tema-Akosombo road, it was clear that one mountain towered above the rest: cue Mount Krobo. After weeks of trying to arrange a hike the plans finally panned out.

Here’s everything you need to know for a great half-day adventure!

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MOUNT KROBO

Dating back to the 16th century, the Dangme people of East Africa up and left their settlements, deciding to migrate towards present day Ghana. Once they reached West Africa, the group made friends with other ethnicities as they passed through, including the Ewe people.

As the trek progressed, a split from the Ewe became necessary and it was at this point in their journey that the Krobo refer to as Lorlorvor, meaning “love has ended.”

The Krobo people crossed the Volta River in continued search of a new settlement when they found themselves surrounded by the Akan and Guan ethnic groups. Fear of these perceived threats forced them to climb an isolated mountain on the plains near the river, known today as Mount Krobo.

Having experienced first-hand the difficult climb as a natural safety measure they began to establish their new settlement, quickly erecting multi-story homes and irrigation systems.

As the Krobo population continued to expand, the colonial government found it increasingly difficult to monitor and control the settlement. As a result in 1892, the British rulers gave the community 3 days to leave the mountain. The people fled with as much as they could carry and what was left behind was destroyed.

To this day, the Krobos continue to organize a pilgrimage to pay homage to their ancestors.

GETTING THERE

Not the most conveniently located attraction in Ghana, the easiest way to access Mount Krobo is by taking a tro-tro or taxi to Akuse Junction. From here, the unmarked trailhead is 3.1km south on the left side of the road, just past Kings and Queens Teaching Hospital.

Although possible to walk from the intersection, it’s not advisable given the volume of speeding traffic along the Tema-Akosombo Road.

If all else fails, the trailhead is pinned below, and the path can be seen from Google satellite images.

WHEN TO GO

For sweeping views across the plains, it’s best to avoid the Harmattan season which runs from November to March as the horizon is often laden with dust that obscures the landscape.

HELPFUL INFO

Some reports indicate a 7.50 GHC entrance fee to a local farmer, but we did not encounter anyone. It’s also vital to bring plenty of water and sunscreen as the mountain is exposed most of the ascent.

Other things to consider:

• A reliable and comfy day pack

• Pack snacks or buy fruit from the stands at Akuse Junction

• Wear shoes with plenty of tread

• Wear long, lightweight pants

• Bring bug spray

• Plan for 4 hours, round trip

• Walking poles

• Start early in the morning to avoid the hottest part of the day

WHAT TO EXPECT

Once turning off the Tema-Akosombo Road, the hike starts flat as the dirt path winds through the brush and approaches the eastern face of the mountain. The tree-lined trail concludes at a clearing with a shelter, washrooms, and a beautiful baobab tree.

From here, the trek begins to quickly ascend through the trees. Remember to pace yourself and stay hydrated – it’s not a race to the top. Take advantage of the many lookouts along the way for some well-deserved rest.

On this particular day, the brush had just been burned along the trail, so the breaks were a welcomed reprieve from breathing in the Harmattan dust and ashy air.

Eventually, the path opens up to ruins from the Krobo civilization that once dwelled on the mountain. We wandered around the old foundations of houses while uncovering clay pots that had slowly been reclaimed by the Earth.

At this point, it is not much farther to the first vista that looks west over the plains. Once you have had a chance to take in the sweeping landscape, continue walking north along the top of the mountain to reach the trail's end, marked by a metal cross.

Relax, refuel, and enjoy the views.

The easiest and safest thing to do is treat Mount Krobo as an out-and-back trail. There is no loop however a local Ghanaian we met at the peak insisted we try the “shortcut” down. This included descending a solid rock wall into a ravine and galloping down the western face of the mountain that we had previously labeled “too steep to climb” as we reached the trailhead from the main road that morning.

Truth be told we would never have found this path without a guide, so best to descend back through the Krobo ruins.

IMPORTANT NOTES

Here’s what I wish we would’ve done differently:

• Pin the location of the trailhead and have the taxi stop at the mark. We got out too early at Akuse Junction and had to walk the 3.1km down the Tema-Akosombo road

• Bring hiking shoes. I used runners and immediately regretted my decision as we started the steep descent through the ashy brush

• Wear long pants. The trail is clearly defined, but that doesn’t mean brush doesn’t get in the way. I left the mountain with scrapes and cuts up and down my legs. Nothing serious, but next time I’ll pack pants

• Get the taxi driver’s phone number to call on the descent and meet at the end of the trailhead to avoid walking back to Akuse Junction for a ride

All in all, it made for a great morning adventure. Be sure to do a little digging on the Krobo people before the hike. Knowing the history of the mountain made the experience meaningful beyond the beautiful fauna and striking landscape.

Have you hiked Mount Krobo before or know of other adventures you want me to experience in Ghana? Leave a comment below and let’s keep exploring!

As always, thanks for reading & happy travels.

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