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A Complete Guide to Visiting the Fascinating Akodessawa Market in Lomé, Togo

Note: All information below is updated as of March 2025, but as countries in West Africa rapidly change, so too can provided facts and figures.

A quick search for ‘things to do in Togo’ and it becomes clear; there’s not much happening with the tourism industry beyond the Grand Market in Lomé, the lush nature of Kpalimé, and the sleepy seaside town of Aneho.

It’s no wonder that one of the main tourist sites remains the Akodessawa Market, more commonly known as the Voodoo Market.

A world of mysticism and ancient traditions, The Marché des Féticheurs is a must-visit destination for curious travelers seeking a unique cultural experience. Known as the heart of this West African Religion, the market offers an intriguing glimpse into practices that have shaped communities for centuries, including in neighboring Benin where Voodoo is the official religion.

Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your visit.

**NOTE: Photos below include dead animals. Proceed with caution!**


A vendor at the Akodessawa Voodoo Market in Lomé, Togo sells ingredients

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE VOODOO MARKET

Voodoo, or Vodun, originated in West Africa and has deep roots in the region's spiritual practices. A form of animalism, the religion has over 40 different gods or fetiches, and each one chooses their feticheur or fetish priest with whom they communicate.

Guides at Akodessawa Market are quick to point out that ‘Black Magic’ isn’t bad. Although it’s widely practiced and holds a negative connotation, it stems from colonialism, as European colonizers felt the need to label these Indigenous spiritual practices. The term “black” was used to symbolize something negative about the locals, leveraging the fear of the unknown to further create division amongst the population.

Opening in 1863, this hub in Akodessawa has quickly become the world’s largest Voodoo market through a sort of “farm-to-table approach”. Most fetish markets only supply ingredients, requiring buyers to commute between priest locations whereas in Lomé, fetish priests are onsite to provide immediate guidance.

Whether you're searching for remedies, seeking a talisman, or need counsel from a fetish priest, the market provides an authentic dive into Voodoo culture. The guides emphasize that only “white magic” is practiced here, so don’t worry, the only purpose is to help and heal rather than hurt.

A shrine for Vodun Gou, or the Iron God, protects the market. Goat and sheep sacrifices produce the black color from the sun-dried blood.

HOW TO GET THERE

The Voodoo Market is located in Akodessawa, a district of Lomé, the capital of Togo.

  1. By Car/Taxi: From Lomé city center, it’s about a 15-minute drive to the market. Taxis are affordable and widely available.

  2. By Moto-Taxi: For a more adventurous ride hop on a moto-taxi, the most efficient means of transport. When transiting through the busy Lomé port, my moto driver hopped onto the sidewalk and passed the stand-still traffic! Problem solved.

  3. By Public Transport: Minibuses heading to Akodessawa can drop you off near the market.

Pro tip: Ask locals for directions or use navigation apps to avoid confusion, as the market isn’t always well-marked. Google Maps is accurate, whether using ‘Akodessawa Market’ or ‘Voodoo Market’.

ENTRANCE FEES & COSTS

There’s a small entrance fee of around 3,000 CFA francs (less than USD 5). A guide is required and although I don’t normally use one in this part of the world, it turned out to be the most important part of truly understanding what the fetish market is.

If you’re interested in purchasing souvenirs or talismans, prices can vary widely, so don’t be afraid to haggle.

Pro tip: A photography permit comes with an extra 2,000 CFA charge, a little more than USD 3 (it is said that this fee is “negotiated with the gods,” so prepare for some flexibility).

Dead animal parts for sale used to make powders and pastes by fetish priests

WHAT TO EXPECT

To sum it up… prepare for sensory overload! One of the first things people note is the putrid smell, a combination of deceased animals with the scorching sun. Truthfully, it didn’t bug me all that much, but maybe that’s due to semesters spent in cadaver labs. Either way, know the possibility is there.

Upon entry, you’ll be asked to pay the small entrance cost, be greeted by your tour guide, and slowly make your way around the market. Statues of gods are dotted around the dusty, open lot while vendors with crocodile skin, monkey heads, dead cats, and more line the perimeter.

Unique to the market environment is that it is, first and foremost, a functioning local market, but also a thriving tourist site. The people arriving on motos are in search of ingredients for powders and cures, the people shuffling in and out of the priests’ shacks are there for spiritual guidance. The Akodessawa market is a rare mix between tourism and local life.

The most touristic part of the market? The makeshift voodoo dolls that are known to Westerners as the preconceived ‘black magic’, but no one is coming here to curse others and poke them in the chest. Rather, people are in search of love healing, fertility, and even blessings for safe travel.

Keep an open mind and respect the culture—this is not just a tourist attraction but a living, spiritual space. People often travel from neighboring Benin to buy supplies and consult with priests.

Once finished exploring the grounds, the guide will usher you into a shack where you'll meet with a local fetish priest and learn about different talismans. The four presented to me were for good luck, love, safe travels, and to help with bad dreams. In classic tourism fashion, the priest then asks if you wish to purchase any (for a far-too-expensive fee). Smart move, because who wants to haggle with a priest?

Pro tip: As noted above, this is a functional local market with religious significance. Be sure to ask permission before taking photographs.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS

Once done roaming the Voodoo Market, make the most of your trip to Togo by exploring these nearby attractions:

  1. Lomé Grand Market: A bustling marketplace where you can find everything from colorful fabrics to fresh produce. Arguably the most photographed spot in Togo, this is where you can glimpse the Sacred Heart Cathedral amidst the bustling streets.

  2. Independence Monument: A symbol of Togo’s independence, the monument is located in the heart of the city.

  3. Togoville: A historic town across Lake Togo, known as the birthplace of voodoo.

  4. International Museum of the Gulf of Guinea: An unassuming house filled with woodwork and art from around West Africa. A nominal fee is required to enter.

  5. Aneho: Where the sea meets Lake Togo’s estuary, this sleepy beach town is the perfect escape from city life and is conveniently located on the border with Benin.

Ingredients for sale in Lomé’s Akodessawa Market, Togo

A visit to Lomé’s Voodoo Market is an unforgettable journey into the heart of West African indigenous beliefs. Whether you’re a history buff, a curious traveler, or a spiritual seeker, this market promises a fascinating and immersive experience. Would I return? Absolutely. There's still so much to unpack and learn about this misrepresented part of the world.

Would you visit the Voodoo Market? Let me know in the comments below and as always, safe travels!


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